Question about Microwave Ovens

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Any Whirlpool Microwave Techs out there...Please help a fellow tech

I am replacing the original HV transformer with a different HV transformer that I bought off ebay and I need help connecting the wires from the magnetron and HV capacitor to the HV transformer.

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  • Anonymous Feb 27, 2009

    I have a sim problem I have a Jen Air JMC7000ADB from what I can see they used the same transformer in a whirlpool and Maytag but they have discontinued the transformer for all these models can any one help I need to replace with a like transformer but dont know what replacement would work I have a 1400W microwave or atleast thats what it says inside the microwave but every place I read about this microwave tells me its a 1000W Please tell me what transformer will replace this the number on my transformer is DW-N95AO-16TH the the part number that whirlpool and maytag used was 560012221

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If the old transformer still has continuity on all 3 windings, then you should be able to match up the wires with the old one based on the resistance of each one. However, if you do this, make sure you are getting similar readings on the new transformer vs. the old. If I was installing a non-exact replacement, I would put voltage on the primary using a variac set to a very low voltage. Then you can safely measure the high voltage and filiament winding voltages to see if they would be correct if 120 vac was applied to it.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_29ad5d1dd86564b0

Posted on May 03, 2016

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Hi mike,

I’m sorry to tell you this but; I wouldn't recommend using a different transformer, even if it's the same size, it could cause serious damage. The HV transformer should only be replaced with the exact replacement part.

Posted on Mar 23, 2008

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GE Profile Microwave Fuse Keeps Blowing


First of all, be sure your AC line voltage is correct at the outlet, at between 105 and 125VAC. If not, call an electrician.

There should be a technical sheet hidden behind the controller or behind the grille or the oven. It's helpful when troubleshooting. If you don't find yours, e-mail me for a copy.

Next take a look at the fuse holder connections and wire terminal connections on the filter board where the fuse is.

Loose or charred connections can increase heat and resistance, leading to a melted fuse.

Also look at the terminals on the upper door switch, magnetron thermostat, and oven thermostat for the same reasons as above. (You'll probably have to remove the oven from the wall to get to the oven thermostat. Your installation instructions are here.)

It's not likely the trouble, but you can eliminate monitor interlock trouble by disconnecting one wire (probably the black one) from the middle door switch and trying your test again. (Ignore the bottom door switch altogether.)

For more free DIY and other help & advice, feel free to contact me.

William E. Miller, AS-EET
pupista@gmail.com
http://www.microwavecontrol.com
Microwave Oven Control Panel Repair Nationwide
"Recycling by repairing since 1982"

Mar 14, 2017 | GE Microwave Ovens

2 Answers

CS Code


Inspect foil side of HV board for burned tracks toward lower side of board. If burned, check HV capacitors (High Voltage Capacitor Test Procedure) and HV transformers (High Voltage Transformer Test) for a short. Otherwise test other components as outlined above.
Solution: Replace defective components as necessary. If applicable, repair foil trace on HV board.
Hope that helps.........

Aug 29, 2008 | Amana RC17 Microwave Oven

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Troubleshooting Guide


  • Problem: Totally dead oven.
    Possible causes:
    1. No power to outlet (blown fuse or tripped breaker or GFCI).
    2. Blown main fuse - likely due to other problems.
    3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
    4. Defective controller or its power supply.
    5. Clock needs to be set before other functions will operate (some models).

  • Problem: Totally dead oven after repair.
    Possible causes:
    1. Cabinet screws replaced in incorrect location (safety interlock not engaged).
    2. Any number of screwups. :)

  • Problem: No response to any buttons on touchpad.
    Possible causes:
    1. Door is not closed (some models).
    2. You waited to long (open and close door to wake it up).
    3. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    4. Defective interlock switches.
    5. Faulty controller or its power supply.
    6. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    7. Defective/damaged touchpad.

  • Problem: Oven runs when door is still open.
    Possible causes:
    1. Damaged interlock assembly.
    2. Cooling fans (only) running due to bad sensor or still warm.

  • Problem: Oven starts on its own as soon as door is closed.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective triac or relay.
    2. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    3. Defective controller or its power supply.
    4. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    5. Defective/damaged touchpad.

  • Problem: Oven works but display is blank.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective controller or its power supply.
    2. Broken display panel.
    3. Oven needs to be reset (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).

  • Problem: Whacked out controller or incorrect operation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
    2. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    3. Defective controller or its power supply.
    4. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    5. Defective/damaged touchpad.
    6. Defective sensor (particulalry covection/mirowave combos).

  • Problem: Erratic behavior.
    Possible causes:
    1. Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
    2. Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
    3. Faulty relay - primary (or HV side, much less commonly used).
    4. Defective controller or its power supply.
    5. Bad contacts/connections on mechanical timers. Intermittent fuse.
    6. Power surge at start of cook cycle confusing controller.
    7. Microwave (RF) leakage into electronics bay.

  • Problem: Some keys on the touchpad do not function or perform the wrong action.
    Possible causes:
    1. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    2. Defective/damaged touchpad.
    3. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    4. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Microwave oven does not respond to START button.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective START button.
    2. Faulty interlock switches.
    3. Door is not securely closed.
    4. Faulty controller.
    5. You waited too long - open and close door to wake it up!

  • Problem: No heat but otherwise normal operation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Blown fuse in HV transformer primary circuit or HV fuse (if used).
    2. Bad connections (particularly to magnetron filament).
    3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
    4. Open HV capacitor, HV diode, HV transformer, or magnetron filament.
    5. Shorted HV diode, HV capacitor (will blow a fuse), or magnetron.
    6. Defective HV relay (not commonly used).

  • Problem: Timer and light work but no heat, cooling fan, or turntable rotation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective (lower) door interlock switch or door not closing fully.
    2. Faulty relay or triac.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when closing or opening door:
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective door interlock switch(s).
    2. Interlock switch knocked out of position.
    3. Misaligned door.

  • Problem: Loud hum and/or burning smell when attempting to cook.
    Possible causes:
    1. Shorted HV diode, magnetron.
    2. Burnt carbonized food in or above oven chamber.
    3. Shorted winding in HV transformer.
    4. Frayed insulation on HV wiring.

  • Problem: Arcing in or above oven chamber.
    Possible causes:
    1. Burnt carbonized food deposits.
    2. Exposed sharp metal edges.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when initiating cook cycle.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective interlock switches or misaligned door.
    2. Shorted HV capacitor.
    3. Shorted HV diode.
    4. Shorted magnetron (probably won't blow main fuse but HV fuse if used).
    5. Defective triac.
    6. Old age or power surges.
    7. Defective HV transformer.
    8. Short in wiring due to vibration or poor manufacturing.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when microwave shuts off (during or at end of cook cycle).
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective triac (doesn't turn off properly).
    2. Defective relay.
    3. Shorting wires.

  • Problem: Oven heats on high setting regardless of power setting.
    Possible causes:
    1. Faulty primary relay or triac or HV relay (not commonly used).
    2. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Oven immediately starts to cook when door is closed.
    Possible causes:
    1. Shorted relay or triac.
    2. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Oven heats but power seems low or erratic.
    Possible causes:
    1. Low line voltage.
    2. Magnetron with low emission.
    3. Faulty controller or set for wrong mode.
    4. Stirrer (or turntable) not working.
    5. Intermittent connections to magnetron filament or elsewhere.
    6. Faulty primary relay or triac or HV relay (not commonly used).

  • Problem: Oven heats but shuts off randomly.
    Possible causes:
    1. Overheating due to blocked air vents or inoperative cooling fan.
    2. Overheating due to bad magnetron.
    3. Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
    4. Faulty interlock switch or marginal door alignment.
    5. Faulty controller.
    6. Overheating due to extremely high line voltage.
    7. Stuck stirrer fan resulting hot spots detected by sensors.

  • Problem: Oven makes (possibly erratic) buzzing noise when heating.
    Possible causes:
    1. Fan blades hitting support or shroud.
    2. Vibrating sheet metal.
    3. Vibrating transformer laminations.
    4. Turntable or stirrer hitting some debris.

  • Problem: Oven light does not work.
    Possible causes:
    1. Burnt out bulb :-).
    2. Bad connections.

  • Problem: Fans or turntables that do not work.
    Possible causes:
    1. Gummed up lubrication or bad motor bearing(s).
    2. Loose or broken belt.
    3. Bad motor.
    4. Bad thermostat.
    5. Bad connections.

on Mar 30, 2008 | Kenmore 80412 Microwave Oven

1 Answer

My one year old microwave just stopped working. The light is on, but nothing else.


Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

here are some issues, but you still maybe under warranty.
  1. Blown fuse in HV transformer primary circuit or HV fuse (if used).
  2. Bad connections (particularly to magnetron filament).
  3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
  4. Open HV capacitor, HV diode, HV transformer, or magnetron filament.
  5. Shorted HV diode, HV capacitor (will blow a fuse), or magnetron.
  6. Damaged protective VDR from filament to chassis (not commonly used).
  7. Defective HV relay (not commonly used).
Microwaves must be serviced by technicians due to the inherent dangers involved in repairing these appliances. Internal capacitors can retain a lethal electrical charge even though the unit is completely unplugged. A microwave radiation leakage test must be performed on the unit following any internal component repair.

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Jan 05, 2011 | Goldstar MV-1501 Microwave Oven

1 Answer

Microwave activate but will not heat food all light and buttons work but will not heat up


Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

You can many different issue's
  1. Blown fuse in HV transformer primary circuit or HV fuse (if used).
  2. Bad connections (particularly to magnetron filament).
  3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
  4. Open HV capacitor, HV diode, HV transformer, or magnetron filament.
  5. Shorted HV diode, HV capacitor (will blow a fuse), or magnetron.
  6. Damaged protective VDR from filament to chassis (not commonly used).
  7. Defective HV relay (not commonly used).
Microwaves must be serviced by technicians due to the inherent dangers involved in repairing these appliances. Internal capacitors can retain a lethal electrical charge even though the unit is completely unplugged. A microwave radiation leakage test must be performed on the unit following any internal component repair.

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Jan 04, 2011 | GE Spacemaker JVM1640SJ Microwave Oven

1 Answer

GE JVM1440 will not heat.


Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

No heat but otherwise normal operation.
Possible causes:
  1. Blown fuse in HV transformer primary circuit or HV fuse (if used).
  2. Bad connections (particularly to magnetron filament).
  3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
  4. Open HV capacitor, HV diode, HV transformer, or magnetron filament.
  5. Shorted HV diode, HV capacitor (will blow a fuse), or magnetron.
  6. Damaged protective VDR from filament to chassis (not commonly used).
  7. Defective HV relay (not commonly used)
Microwaves must be serviced by technicians due to the inherent dangers involved in repairing these appliances. Internal capacitors can retain a lethal electrical charge even though the unit is completely unplugged. A microwave radiation leakage test must be performed on the unit following any internal component repair.

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Jan 01, 2011 | GE JVM1440 Microwave Oven

1 Answer

WMH1162 not heating



Sorry to read about your problem, You have a major failure, I suggest you contact a service company. If you feel like making repairs yourself, i will give you some pointers below.

There are other variations depending on whether the cooling fan, oven light, and so forth are located down stream of the fuse.

Some models may have a separate high voltage fuse. If this is blown, there will be no heating but no other symptoms. However, high voltage fuses are somewhat rare on domestic ovens.
A number of failures can result in the fuse NOT blowing but still no heat:

  • Bad connections - these may be almost anywhere in the microwave generator or the primary circuit of the HV transformer. A common location is at the crimp connections to the magnetron filament as they are high current and can overheat and result in no or intermittent contact.
  • Open thermal protector - usually located on magnetron case. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms.
  • Open thermal fuse - some ovens have one of these in the primary circuit. It may be in either connection to the HV transformer or elsewhere. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms.
  • Open HV capacitor - see the section: A shorted HV capacitor would likely immediately blow the fuse.
  • Open HV diode - see the section:
  • Open magnetron filament - This failure may also be due to loose, burnt, or deteriorated press (Fast-on) lugs for the filament connections and not an actual magnetron problem.
  • Open winding in HV transformer.
  • Defective HV relay. A few models use a relay in the actual high voltage circuitry (rather than the primary) to regulate cooking power. This may have dirty or burnt contacts, a defective coil, or bad connections
  • Shorted HV diode -
  • Short or other fault in the magnetron - see the section:
  • Short in certain portions of the HV wiring.
I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response. We take the time to answer your question. take the time to rate us.Thanks and good luck

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Dec 30, 2010 | Whirlpool Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Model 721.64282 microwave/convection oven - microwave not heating and making a loud noise. convection oven works


No heat but otherwise normal operationA shorted HV diode, magnetron, or certain parts of the HV wiring would probably result in a loud hum from the HV transformer but will likely not blow the main fuse. (However, the HV fuse - not present on most domestic ovens - might blow.)
If the main power fuse is located in the primary of the high voltage transformer rather then at the line input, the clock and touchpad will work but the fuse will blow upon initiating a cook cycle. Or, if the fuse has already blown there will simply be no heating action once the cook cycle is started. There are other variations depending on whether the cooling fan, oven light, and so forth are located down stream of the fuse.

Some models may have a separate high voltage fuse. If this is blown, there will be no heating but no other symptoms. However, high voltage fuses are somewhat rare on domestic ovens.

A number of failures can result in the fuse NOT blowing but still no heat:


  • Bad connections - these may be almost anywhere in the microwave generator or the primary circuit of the HV transformer. A common location is at the crimp connections to the magnetron filament as they are high current and can overheat and result in no or intermittent contact. See the section: See the section: Testing the magnetron.
  • Open thermal protector - usually located on magnetron case. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms. See the section: Testing thermal protectors and thermal fuses.
  • Open thermal fuse - some ovens have one of these in the primary circuit. It may be in either connection to the HV transformer or elsewhere. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms.
  • Open HV capacitor - see the section: Testing the high voltage capacitor. A shorted HV capacitor would likely immediately blow the fuse.
  • Open HV diode - see the section: Testing the high voltage diode.
  • Open magnetron filament - This failure may also be due to loose, burnt, or deteriorated press (Fast-on) lugs for the filament connections and not an actual magnetron problem. See the section: Testing the magnetron.
  • Open winding in HV transformer. See the section: Testing the high voltage transformer.
  • Defective HV relay. A few models use a relay in the actual high voltage circuitry (rather than the primary) to regulate cooking power. This may have dirty or burnt contacts, a defective coil, or bad connections
  • Shorted HV diode - see the section: Testing the high voltage diode.
  • Short or other fault in the magnetron - see the section: Testing the magnetron.
  • Short in certain portions of the HV wiring. See the section: Testing and repairing the wiring and connections.

Depending on design, a number of other component failures could result in no heat as well including a defective relay or triac, interlock switch(s), and controller.


If you are interested in doing it yourself the following link will help : Microwave Repair Manual

(**All the above references to tests are found here)

Oct 21, 2010 | Kenmore 63663 Microwave Oven

1 Answer

A few weeks ago our GE JVM1660 quit heating and GE sent me a replacement magnetron. I've heard that the capacitor will discharge after the unit has been unplugged for 24 hours... mine has been unplugged...


I don't know where you got the information that the high voltage capacitor takes 24 hours to discharge. The capacitor will actually discharge after a few minutes. If in doubt as to whether or not a capacitor is still charged, however, you should short the capacitor to discharge it. You do this by fashioning yourself a grounding probe:

1. Take a screwdriver and a set of alligator clips with a wire.

2. Connect an alligator clip to either end of the wire.

3. Connect one clip to the screwdriver and the other end to equipment ground.

4. Short the screwdriver across the capacitor terminals.

If the capactor casing is grounded (mounted to the equipment chassis) you only need to take a screwdriver and touch each across each terminal to the capacitor case.

CAUTION: Make sure the unit is UNPLUGGED prior to servicing any components inside the HV network. The HV network consists of the HV Capacitor, Magnetron, HV Diode and HV Transformer.

If you still have questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Mar 17, 2010 | GE JVM1660 Microwave Oven

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