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To remove the rear fender, you'll have to remove the 4 or 5 bolts that attatch your fender rail to fender, to keep from scratching the paint on the fender when you remove it, loosen one of the fender rails (struts) more than the other side so you can remove fender without scratching it. Becareful with your tail light wiring when your taking the license plate mount/tail light off.
Remove the seat. Unplug the connector for the taillight and rear turn signals. Stabiliize the bike and remove the upper shock bolts. The job is also easier if you remove the rear tire. Remove the bolts from the fender struts on both sides. Be sure to hold the fender or clamp it place when removing the bolts so the fender doesn't slip out of place and get scratched. Unplug the turn signals from the taillight housing. Pull the wires and connectors through the holes in the struts. Lift the fender out.
which chain is falling off. the one from the motor? if so check to make sure the sproket (ps i cant spell) and gear fom motor is lined up. on mine i remember having to flip the rear sproket. are you using the chain tenchiner pulley? i think the one that comes with the kit dosnt have a deep enough gruve. i got rid of it all together, and just made the chain fit with like 1.5 to 3 inches of play. ive seen people use the tenchiner from the rear shifting gear on a mountain bike. thats what i suggest. if its the chain from your pedals thats falling of the the guys from the bike shop are messing with you or the alined the wrong chain. or maybe you need to resize the chian they just got the wheel straight.
Your turn signals should have hollow bolts with wiring running thru them correct?? Now remember that you have to take the other bolts off or at least loosen them, on the rear strut. So you should have covers on the struts, then the struts themselves (frame) then your rear fenders.
Usually I have to manipulate the fender and kind of bend it inward as i work in the sissy bar. Use cloth though on the fender so you dont scratch the paint. Dynas can be a little challenging, good luck.
Do you mean the tire from the wheel, or removing the wheel from the motorcycle itself? I think you mean the latter. You will need a lift to support the bike on its frame, after that you pretty much just remove nuts and bolts holding the brake calipers and such on. A tip I would suggest is to get the bike up on whatever stand you use to keep the rear off the ground, and place something under the tire that just sits below it or is just under it so that you don't bend axels and such. The biggest problem I can see you running into is the rear fender. At which point I hope some one else here has done this for your particular bike and found a way NOT to take that whole thing off to get the wheel out. Good luck
Depending on the bike.. On all the "easiest" thing to do is drop the front wheel, remove the 4 bolts holding the fender on. Watch out for the sheet metal tabs that lock the bolts in place. Now depending on the model you may have a light on the front of your fender, you will have the joy of disconnecting it first. Hope this helps.
Two bolts on the rear fender will need to be removed. Also remove the passenger Pillion(Seat). Normally one bolt in the back and the pillion slides into the driver seat. Pulling back on the pillion after removal of the hold down bolt usually releases it.
The brackets to hold the saddlebags straight and away from the rear tire/ brake disc. Mounts with shims to the two bolt holes on either side of the bike. (remember those bolts removed earlier?) Center the saddle bags by eye. Sometimes it is best to have someone hold the bike straight and center from the rear. If the bike is on the kick stand, it will not be easy to center the saddle bags.
Next put the passenger pillion back in place. Check the bracket clearance and make sure no part of the saddle bags are touching any moving part. You can bend the brackets to adjust but usually not necessary. Just be careful with the chrome fender flares. Those curved chrome rear fender shiny things. :) You can scratch the paint very easily while working with them. Use a cloth/towel where you can to prevent marring of the paint. Really simple to do with minimal tools. Some of the saddle bag bracket kits come with longer bolts. Use them!
My 1100 Vstar I used the twist rods from a set of Shoe Stretchers. Screwed directly into a kuryakyn foot peg adapter. Black with a triangular tip worked great. Heck of a lot cheaper too! Nice thing about this arrangement, only had to remove the foot peg bolts. Then the rear passenger seat. Easy to adjust the angle of the bracket by loosening the foot peg either side. Pull up, push down or bend out to get proper position.
I have installed many 21" wheels on all the touring modles and have never had to raise the fender with any conversion kit.It should fit rite on without any parts. Yo do need to loosen up the mounting bolts and rock the nose of the fender down a little to get more clearanse at the bottom.
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