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Putting a piece of tongue depressor over the switch "window" where the tab on the door actuates the switch, allows the switch to work properly. Have a new switch and need the disassembly info toaccess the switch.
There are videos at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html that will walk you replacing this part. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same. You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models are available.
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Hi, Well, don't blame yourself for slamming the door. They were made for it. The most common cause of
failure when this happens is the door switch and the door switch actuator. Here is how you can test these parts: 1 Empty the dryer of clothes 2
Locate the door switch actuator. it will be over along the top edge of
where the door closes, just inside the lip. There will be a little
(3/8th inch wide) metal tab covered in plastic. The is the actuator the
is mounted to the electrical door switch. The door switch is a
valuable safety device that prevents children, pets and adults from
loosing limbs and other things in a spinning dryer. DON'T BYPASS IT. 3
The tab may simply be broken off. If you can push the piece and hear a
clicking sound, it means the switch is probably good but the tab is
not. 4 To test this push the tab in or jam a ball point pen in
there until it clicks, turn the dryer timer on and push the start
button. It it comes on, that was the issue. WARNING: NEVER, NEVER, NEVER PUT YOU ARM INTO A SPINNING OPEN DRYER DOOR. JUST DON'T DO IT. IT CAN RUIN YOUR DAY. 5 If you push the tab and get no click but a sort of springy action. The switch is broken. Usually the switch replacement kit has both the metal tab and the switch. That is usually it. If
you can supply me with the model number of the dryer, I can help you
locate the right part and give some instruction on how to do it. Hope this helps, Best Regards, Mark
The horn souds to alert you to the fact that the vehicle has not locked correctly, this is normal. The cycling of the door locks is a common fault. Inside the door actuators there are two switches which tell the control unit when the doors are locked or unlocked. If you issue a lock command (from the remote) and the control unit does not receive the correct signal from these switches, the control unit unlocks the doors and sounds the horn. Disconnecting the door actuators has the same effect as this prevents the door lock sensors from sending the correct signal to the controller. So, the cause is usually one of the door locks has been contaminated with water and the contacts have corroded. You cannot disassemble the door actuators to clean the contacts, you can only replace the entire actuator. Water (usually from rain) gets past the window seal, drips onto the lock mechanism and then runs down the actuator rod and into the actuator. It then sits in the bottom of the actuator damaging the contacts. Now, its usually the drivers door actuator as this is the door and window used the most but, If any of the windows have been left open or partially open, water will get into the actuators causing this problem. If the vehicle has been involved with the floods, the same can happen. Replacement is quite simple but make sure you get the rivets which hold the actuators inside the door as using nuts and bolts is very difficult and may foul on the window as it winds down. Remove the door fittings and the inner door trim, cut the seal in a manner which allows you to reseat it and wind the window all the way up. Disconnect the wiring harness to the lock and drill out the rivets. carefully remove the linkage rod and dont break the clip. Fit the new actuator to the linkage and connect the wiring again. Hold onto the actuator and cycle the door locks holding the courtesy lamp switch in. If all is well, the doors should now lock correctly. If all is well, refit the actuator with the new rivets and refit the door seal and trim etc.. Done..
Hi, When
most Whrlpool dryers do not turn on at all. The most common cause of
failure is the door switch and the door switch actuator. Here is how you can test this. 1 Empty the dryer of clothes 2
Locate the door switch actuator. it will be over along the top edge of
where the door closes, just inside the lip. There will be a little
(3/8th inch wide) metal tab covered in plastic. The is the actuator the
is mounted to the electrical door switch. The door switch is a
valuable safety device that prevents children, pets and adults from
loosing limbs and other things in a spinning dryer. DON'T BYPASS IT. 3
The tab may simply be broken off. If you can push the piece and hear a
clicking sound, it means the switch is probably good but the tab is
not. 4 To test this push the tab in or jam a ball point pen in
there until it clicks, turn the dryer timer on and push the start
button. It it comes on, that was the issue. WARNING: NEVER, NEVER, NEVER PUT YOU ARM INTO A SPINNING OPEN DRYER DOOR. JUST DON'T DO IT. IT CAN RUIN YOUR DAY. 5 If you push the tab and get no click but a sort of springy action. The switch is broken. Usually the switch replacement kit has both the metal tab and the switch. That is usually it. If
you can supply me with the model number of the dryer, I can help you
locate the right part and give some instruction on how to do it. Hope this helps, Best Regards, Mark
1.Lift headrest and headrest support bars trim all the way up. 2.Insert tongue depressor (or slim jim) down the front side of the headrest bar.Push depressor down as far as possible.When the depressor is beneath the headrest trim piece, push headrest all of the way down. 3. Lift headrest to remove.
When the green LED starts to blink, means that there is a bulb failure in the RCI module. It typically glows greenish blue when it working. Check the connector to see if it is seated properly, and also check the power connector for problems. I had a problem with the power connect not making a good contact and it caused the power to be intermittent. I was able to clean the connector with a can of electrical contact cleaner from Radio Shack to fix this problem. If you can't get the bulb to light, you will need a new RCI module.
As for the purification plate, the one that shaped like a tongue depressor, it does not matter which way it go back in to the unit. You should be able to get parts from your dealer or you can call the company at 800 989 2299. Hope this helps.
Lube the window glass channels with spray silicone, it can be had from any parts store, really soat them, that will cure the window sticking problem. Don't get this on the paint or the plastic of the door panel, it may stain.
These directions might sound a little goofy. I'm trying to orient your
location with front and rear rather then left and right because it
depends on which door you are working on. Front is towards front of rig
and rear, oh I think you get it.
1. Close window on door.
2. Using a flat screw driver pop off trim under inside door handle. I
think there is a groove in the plastic to which the screw driver can be
inserted. Remove screw.
3. Using same screw driver pop off trim panel with door lock and window
control switches. Start lifting from end located at panel closest to
the front of the rig. The panel towards the back end has a pivot point
which holds the back of the panel into the arm rest. Dis-connect the
two switches from the trim panel.
4. Again, using flat screw driver, pop off the trim pannel located at
the upper door/window frame nearest the back of the rig. Remove screw.
5. Lift up the door panel to remove. Be careful the light bulb is
attached to the door panel. Rotate light socket 90 degrees and remove.
6. From the rear of the door pull back the platic stick-on barrier.
Don't remove the whole thing just pull it leaving about half of it
towards the front of the door stuck on.
7. Remove the one 11mm bolt, located towards the bottom of door, which
holds the rearwindow guide. Don't remove the two 11mm bolts which hold
the horizontal brace. Nothing else needs to be removed, leave all rods
and attachments in place. They all attach the the door latch and are
not of any further concern.
8. Now the easy part. The actuators and door latches are
separate components. The actuator slides onto the door latch via two
metal guides located on the door latch. The actuator is held into place
with a plastic locking tab. The locking tab is part of the actuator
housing. 9. This tab has to be pushed in to release actuator from
latch. 10. Find on ouside of door - rear where the latch fingers? (I
don't know what else to call them) are located in the notched door
frame. At the bottom of the notch is a very narrow opening, just a
****. This **** allows access to the locking tab on the actuator.
11. Orient the screw driver in the end of the **** closest to the
interior. Working on a right door, looking at the locking fingers,
facing the front of the rig, your screw driver would be inserted at the
left side of the ****. Pushing a flat screw driver into the **** will
push the locking tab allowing the actuator to slide off the door latch.
12. A flat screw driver or other small pry tool can be inserted between
the actuator and the door lock to help slide the actuator off the metal
guides. The pry unit can be inserted where the rod from the interior
manual door lock stem is attached. Mine had a yellow snap/flip keeper.
13. The actuator slides off from the interior towards the outside door
panel.
14. Simple put pressure onto the locking tab with one screw driver and
gently pry with the other one and the actuator should slide right off.
15. I picked up an actuator at a u-pull it wrecking yard for five bucks
and it worked fine. Dealer wanted $90.00 and auto parts wanted $127.00.
When I pulled my actuator from the wrecked rig all door panels and
interior where stripped. It took me literally 20 seconds to pull the
actuator. 16. To install new unit slide actuator onto door latch rails
and let locking tab click into place. You might have to manually move
the interior door lock stem up and down until the finger on the
actuator lines up with a hole on the plastic part of the interior lock
stem.
16. I Want to thank TommyRox in Texas on Ford Truck World and rivguy on automotiveforums.com for their posts.
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