Rich,
Thanks for your help. Really appreciate all your suggestions.
I tried these steps and it spins to the 850 rpm. You are also right about the pump. It is turning on and off as I can hear it. I pulled the drain hose out and noticed that when there is a lot of water in the tub, the pump will pump out a high volume of water. When it's in the spin cycle (spinning at 850 rpm) and no water is added and the pump turns on there is just a little water coming out of the drain hose. In this situation, I can hear that the pump is on, the display is showing 850 rpm and I can hear wet clothes being sloshed around and little water is coming out the drain hose. Since everything seems to be working except the water is not being extracted out of the clothes, my guess is that maybe the tumblers are not working/ spinning. I also notice that the clothes are not badly mangled and twisted together as it normally would be. Could this be the reason the water is not being squeezed out of the clothes? Is there a way to test the tumbler speed or to run the machine with the door open to see if they are spinning? Here's another theory, is it possible that the drain is partially plugged with paper or tissue and when you have lots of water it's being drain down to a certain level that you cannot see the remaining standing water so during the spin cycle it's not able to fully pump all the water out of the clothes.
Mike,
No problem just will help me and other linked to on going troubleshooting efforts. I did the same thing when I started.
I was logged in under my other forum name dh1200s any way this statement ""They should be stiff to rotate thru the transmission gearing but will move."" is wrong I can't rotate the tumblers by hand but check for that free wheeling tumbler. I'll add a comment about your request ""Is there a way to test the tumbler speed or to run the machine with the door open to see if they are spinning?"" Yes do you have the Service Manual?
Here it is;
FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.
Look in the SM it will show you how to raise the washer top from the base. Just make sure the washer is not signaling for water fill or you spray some water around. I’m going to post this under my FAV6800AWDIY forum name.
If you feel the need to tear down the drain line system here are a couple of pics to start ya off. Make sure when you remove the drain line from the Sump Cap on reinstall is snug up against the Sump Cap. To remove the Sump Cap to empty a coin or two and other possible debris it will twist CW to remove. When you reinstall watch you don’t pinch the rubber O-Ring. Place some towels under the Sump Cap to catch excess water.
Sump Cap and some stuff I found in mine but I had no wet clothes issue just doing DIY maintenance.
My Solution to preventing Drain Line clogs and broken Drain Pump iUpdate on Neptune TL extraction problem - 4491e01.jpg />
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Better shot of the Drain Pump lay out and exit hose. I was doing a Outer Tub Bearing replacUpdate on Neptune TL extraction problem - 053d120.jpgwill be a tight work area. That's why I came up with the Sump Cap filter screen.
Good Luck with you project and I will try to help if I can....Rich
Mike,
Just curious I had mentioned to take the same wash load that had completed wet and do Spin Only cycle. When that Spin Only Cycle completed was the wash load ready to hang dry, not dripping wet?
Rich
Sounds good Mike and good luck. Please do let us know what you find. I'm still scratching my head on this one with no standing wash water in the wash basket and you make full 850RPM spin speed.
You will see from the location of the Sump Cap it is up hill from the drain pump inlet. I would not expect much water to flow out when you pull both the hose off the sump cap and remove the sump cap. But have some towels handy a very interesting problem.....****
Steve,
Making an headway? Very interesting problem.....Rich
Yep I wasn’t buying a drain line clog without doing some good old fashion troubleshooting….
Bingo!!! Mike you found your problem……
The Control Board sees the Motor spinning at 850RPM from Motor Tach feedback not the wash basket.
My WAG well it’s not a WAG but you need to drop the Clutch Pulley out of the machine. It sounds to me that the Large Wrap Spring has broken off at one of the ends in the Clutch Pulley assembly. See my Clutch Fix Post for support to remove do maintenance or replacement of the Clutch Pulley Assembly.
This is how the Clutch Pulley Large Wrap Spring should look.
This tells me the Clutch Pulley may have met High Spinner Assembly/ Wash basket resistance when it entered a Spin Cycle. I hope the Outer Tub Bearings are not seized. Do you remember hearing any increased bearing noise as the washer would enter a Spin Cycle?
Can you raise the washer lid and see if you can rotate the wash basket with one finger CCW the Spin Cycle direction. If not how much resistance to CCW rotation do you detect? The Wash basket should not rotate CW.
I would replace the Clutch Pulley assembly. I will continue to help if you want to DIY. If you bring in a repair service I think you are looking at $300 to $400 to repair. Call Maytag and see if they will send you a Clutch Pulley at a reduced price…
You should not spend much over $70 delivered to the house. See the info in my Clutch Fix Post ….Rich
Hey Mike,
“”Is the tub suppose to turn freely CCW or is there suppose to be some resistance?””
Slight resistance it’s hard for me to give folks a relative answer. You should be able to rotate the wash basket with one finger (pinky finger test). The only resistance is do to the Outer Tub bearings that the Wash Basket/Spinner Assembly rides in. Let me know if the amount of CCW rotational resistance you have. You should be able to spin up the wash basket as fast as you can and it should make several rotations and coast to a stop.
When you drop the Clutch Pulley out I’m sure you find a broken end on the Large Wrap stainless steel spring from your troubleshooting feedback that the tumblers rotate in spin cycle.
Not counting reading time of the Clutch Fix Post I would say once you have the washer laying it’s back about 15 minutes and will you will have it on the work bench. Watch removing the belt even with the tension bolt loose it’s very snug. Just walk the belt off the Clutch pulley and watch you don’t pinch your fingers. It is just as difficult to walk the belt back on the Clutch Pulley.
This forum member who just hat to re-lube One-Way Roller Clutches bearing did it start to stop in about two hrs and he was washing a load again. Maytag Neptune load unbalance
Let me know what you find when you open up the Clutch Pulley plastic cover and expose the Large Wrap stainless steel spring under the white One-Way Roller Clutches bearing plate.……..Rich
Mike,
Once you drop the clutch out of your machine the Wash Basket should spin CCW and CW if the Outer Tub bearings are not seized with very little resistance.
If you could post the first two digits of the Machines serial number the number range will be 10 thru 17 that is the series number of your machine.
Hope you wife is feeling better. I have had a cold off on for the past several weeks. My work location is super cold. I work in a Cable Headend office with lots of BTU generation from equipment. Lots of Nyquil and OJ.
Take care and Good Luck.......Rich
Mike what are the first two digits of you machines serial number. It sounds like a Series 12 and above. You did not mention if you used the upper One-Way Roller clutch bearing ring on clutch pulley removal.
Yes with that Spinner Shaft Coupler frozen in the Clutch Pulley One-Way Roller clutch bearing you would be better off to replace the Clutch Pulley.
What has me confused is this should have allowed the Wash basket to spin up OK in a Spin Only Cycle. The One-Way Roller Clutches lock up in the Spin direction. When the Motor rotates CCW (Spin Cycle) it rotates the Clutch Pulley CCW . The One Way Roller Clutches Lock up in that direction causing the Spinner Shaft Coupler to rotate The Spinner Assembly CCW. The Inner Tub is bolted to the Spinner Assembly so it rotates the inner tub/wash basket CCW.
Your Spinner Shaft Coupler is rusted/seized to the One-Way Roller Clutch bearing in the Clutch Pulley. That should have allowed a Spin Only Cycle to run OK (as long as the Outer Tub Bearings aren’t seized) but it would have caused the wash basket to rotate CW during the wash/agitate cycle causing large tub swings and unbalance error codes.
Mike I think I missing something here it’s 3am here on the East Coast Honey Brook PA. I think I need to read through all the post again and see what I’m missing after some shut eye.
“”I took the plastic cover off and the large wrap ss spring looks good. Nothing broken, a little rust here and there but otherwise no problem.””
The two retaining pins were in posistion as I show in my pic next to the can of WD-40 and no ends broken off the spring?
Rich
Sorry Mike I missed you response earlier on the s/n ""Rich, Serial number begins with 10. "" Thank you. How did the upper One-Way Roller Clutch bearing ring look? Was the Spinner Shaft Coupler frozen in it or the Clutch Pulley One-Way Roller Clutch bearing?
Hey Mike,
Sounds good. Yep replace the the whole Clutch Pylley assembly and go from there. It sounds lile you mah have a slight tub seal leak with all the rust damage. But let's get you back in service.....Rich
Mike,
Sorry I did not answer your question about the Clutch Pully Assembly purchase. See my Clutch Fix Post link in this post. I call out a lower cost Clutch Pulley with p/n which I use. Don't pay more that $70 for it. I have a link to a vendor in that post.
I know of a recent forum member who called Maytag Customer Care and they sent him one for around $50.
Hey Mike,
“”I was able to tap out the shaft and it was pretty rusted together. It was so bad I wasn't able to put the shaft back in without hammering it in. My dad happened to be over and he decided to try and clean out the bearings and shaft. He was able to clean it up pretty good and we installed the pulley assembly back for a test run.””
Yes you want to replace the Clutch Pulley assembly asap and you do have a tub seal leak. The tub seal, tranny O-ring and Spinner Nut locking tool and Spanner will cost about $50 for all.
It’s a job to replace but if you can deal with the down time anyone that is handy can do the job. I ran into an issue on removing the inner tub. I broke off a Spinner bolt with my impact tool that forced me to drill out a broken bolt and install a SS helicoil insert. I had a local machine shop do that for me.
Lube up you new Upper One-Way Roller clutch bearing ring and the Clutch Pulley mounted One-Way Roller clutch bearing when you get it with a light coat if lithium bearing grease. After few months of use I would remove the Clutch Pulley and Upper bearing ring and re-lube. That tub seal leak will cause issues until you replace the Tub Seal.
I missed some of you previous post it’s 3am here on the EC I work 4PM to 12:30AM and have some late nights at work this week.
“”The two pins were in the right position and nothing is broken. I did notice that on the inner end of the spring (where the pin is on the inside and is not fixed) was a little bent. The bending looks like the spring was stuck and the pin was being pulled on so it bent or stretch the loop in the SS spring.”” I feel that happened when you were in a wash/agitate cycle. The Spinner Shaft coupler by the way my name for it I have no clue what Maytag calls it was seized in the One-Way Roller clutch bearing.
If you have time when you get your new clutch try the little test I show on my Clutch Fix post. You will see just how the Locks up in the CCW/Spin direction and rotates freely in the CW wash/agitate direction.
Keep in mind in the Spin Cycle of a wash cycle or a Spin Only Cycle the wash basket is driven to rotate CCW. The wash basket also rotates CCW during a water fill sequence at the beginning of a wash cycle. I believe to help insure uniform saturation of wash load with these low usage water level machines.
“”Is there a way I can post pictures on this site? Rich stated’’
Yes click on Insert Image icon the one in the middle of the Reply To This Post dialog box. It looks like little green tree. I take high resolution pic’s then compress with Advanced J-peg compressor. File size is limited to 150K bytes. I would like to see what that rusted Upper bearing ring and Clutch pulley looked like.
Time to pull the plug…I hope the family is doing OK thru all this.
Post back if I can help with anything……Rich
Sure wish this would have been a drain line clog issue..... maybe next time....:)
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Rapportblog7 , and other forum members see these other post for the troubleshooting steps to date;
http://www.fixya.com/support/t4489110-maytag_neptune_tl_machine_working
http://www.fixya.com/support/t4512246-maytag_neptune_tl_clothes_still_dripping
w_011 Please do not continue to open a new post for your response add a comment to the current post so all repair people and other forum members can follow the troubleshooting path and contribute to your issue resolution.
w_011 reports the washer will pump out 5 gallons of water in 40 seconds………… Where is the restriction or failure in the Drain line or Drain pump…….. I don’t see issue with that system.
w_011 reports no standing water in the Wash Basket on wash cycle completion. The water inlet valve is closing or the washer would flood.
w_011 reports the wash basket will spin up to 850 RPM the max design limit for this machine.
“”I tried these steps and it spins to the 850 rpm. You are also right about the pump. It is turning on and off as I can hear it. I pulled the drain hose out and noticed that when there is a lot of water in the tub, the pump will pump out a high volume of water. “”
That tells me the drain line connections from Sump Cap to Drain Pump inlet, the drain pump and Drain pump discharge line are working OK. You could tear down the Drain Line system from Sump Cap to exit pipe. But you report no standing water in the wash basket when you remove the load.....I have to ne overlooking something here.
“”When it's in the spin cycle (spinning at 850 rpm) and no water is added and the pump turns on there is just a little water coming out of the drain hose. In this situation, I can hear that the pump is on, the display is showing 850 rpm and I can hear wet clothes being sloshed around and little water is coming out the drain hose.””
That is what you want, centrifugal force at Wash Basket 850RPM is extracting water to the Outer Tub for collection at the Sump Cap reservoir feeding the to the input of the Drain Pump impeller being discharged to the drain line at a very low rate as Wash Basket centrifugal force tries to extract excess water from the wash load. All normal results tied together as you continued report of no standing water visible in the Wash Basket.
I need to break up my response this board has message limits and I always getting pulled over for speeding.....Rich
Part 2;
“”I can hear that the pump is on, the display is showing 850 rpm and I can hear wet clothes being sloshed around and little water is coming out the drain hose. Since everything seems to be working except the water is not being extracted out of the clothes, my guess is that maybe the tumblers are not working/ spinning.””
The tumblers should not rotate during the Spin Cycle of a selected wash cycle or a Spin Only cycle. If they did you washer would indicate a 8.7 on the rector scale and shake itself apart if the TDS was not working as designed to signal the Control Board to shut the machines Spin Cycle down ending with an error code of dC or uC.
“”I also notice that the clothes are not badly mangled and twisted together as it normally would be.””
That has nothing to do with the Spin Cycle. Do you hear the tumblers rotating during agitate/wash portion of the wash cycle churning the water? Do a Quick wash with no clothes in the wash basket and listen in. Go into Service Mode and see if the Tumbler Rotation reads approximately 56 RPM on the LED display. I would also check that a Tumbler is not free wheeling. Open the lid and try to rotate the tumblers by hand. They should be stiff to rotate thru the transmission gearing but will move. A free wheeling tumbler may account for less tangles(I wish I had the tangle free model) but has nothing to do with extracting water during Spin Cycle. A free wheeling tumbler will cause reduced agitation and rotation action (tangle action) of the wash basket load. I did work with a owner that had a free wheeling tumbler let me know the results of this paragraph and all questions.
Repair folks and knowledgeable owners what could I be over looking when you review all post/feedback from w_011 and my trouble shooting steps? I must be overlooking something here. Please key into the Wash Tub discharge rate, No ND error code and wash Basket Spins up to Max 850RPM with a wash load and no standing water in the wash basket at end of wash cycle. Please keep in mind the sealed inner tub has water in it at all times in all three of my FAV6800’s Series 10,16 and 17. I believe the Maytag design team did this to improve and dampen out inner tub Wash Basket unbalance issues on Wash Basket Spin up. We need to help w_011 with this issue and I’m scratching my head on this one.
To be continued Part 3 coming..... maybe tomorrow.
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Yes it sounds like something is blocking the water pump pipes
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Usually answered in minutes!
Sorry about all the new post. I am new to this site and was trying to respond without adding new post but didn't see the add comment button because I hadn't been logging in at the beginning. I will pull the washer out and open it up this weekend. I'll check to see if there is any thing partially blocking the pump or drain line. I'll report back if I find something.
Thanks Mike
Rich,
The spin only cycle did not produce any better result. Same issue exist. I can hear the pump turn on and off and if the tub is not full of water barely a trickle of water comes out the drain hose. I print off a copy of the SM from your link. Thanks!I'll let you know what I find out.
Mike
Rich,
I didn't get a chance to pull the washer out to check the drain pipe. Maybe this weekend. I will let you know as soon as I do. Thanks, Mike
Hi Rich,
Sorry, I haven't had much time to do tests. My wife has a bad cold so I've been spending time taking care of our 2 year old daughter. I just ran the washer in spin cycle with the cover open. I continuously poured small amounts of water and a it seemed that all of it was being extracted so I doubt it's a clogged drain or even a partial clogged drain. Depending upon what the answer is to my next question, I may have found the problem. During the spin cycle, is the basket suppose to spin? I only noticed that the two white tumblers were spinning but not the basket. Could this be the problem? I always though the basket would be doing the spinning. I put it into service mode and the led screen did show the speed reaching 880 rpm. (Only tumblers spinning, not basket) Is it reading the speed of the tumblers or is it suppose to read the speed of the basket. If this is normal then I'll keep searching.
Thanks,
Mike
I'll try to pull the clutch pulley out by this weekend. I didn't notice any additional bearing noise when it entered into the spin cycle. When I get home tonight I will check to see if I can turn the tub CCW. Is the tub suppose to turn freely CCW or is there suppose to be some resistance? When I was watching the tub in the spin cycle, I did notice that as the tub was about to spin it would catch and stop. (It spins about a inch or two and comes to a abrupt stop.) How long will it take to pull the clutch pulley out? Thanks Mike
Hi Rich,
There is 100% resistance CCW or CW spin. No matter how hard I try to spin the tub it will not move at all. A little free play (1/4 inch) and that's about it. I will report back once I get the clutch pulley opened. Hopefully by this weekend. Thanks Mike
Rich,
Serial number begins with 10.
My wife is still sick. It's been a little over two weeks now. I finally convinced her to go to the Dr's office today. They said it was probably a sinus infection and prescribed Z-pak for her. She didn't want to go or take any medication because she is 5 months pregnant (will be our second daughter) Hopefully the antibiotic will be the cure.
I'll keep you posted on my findings. Thanks, Mike
Rich,
I had a chance to work on the washer tonight and was able to get the clutch pulley out fairly quickly as you stated. I took the plastic cover off and the large wrap ss spring looks good. Nothing broken, a little rust here and there but otherwise no problem. No problems with the outer tub bearings. As you mentioned, with the pulley out the tub spins both ways freely. I think or should I say I'm sure the problem is with the spinner shaft coupler and one way roller clutch bearing. The two are completely seized/rusted together. I assume that you should be able to spin the shaft in one direction with your fingers while it's inside the white plastic cutch bearing plate. It's already getting late so I won't have a chance to try and free the shaft from the bearing tonight. I hope this is the problem. I'm guessing I'll probably have to replace the bearings. We'll see what happens.
Mike
Rich,
Up at 3AM, that's pretty late. I'm in Pasadena Ca. I hope I'm describing the parts correctly. The two pins were in the right position and nothing is broken. I did notice that on the inner end of the spring (where the pin is on the inside and is not fixed) was a little bent. The bending looks like the spring was stuck and the pin was being pulled on so it bent or stretch the loop in the SS spring. Is there a way I can post pictures on this site?
Rich stated "You did not mention if you used the upper One-Way Roller clutch bearing ring on clutch pulley removal" ....to be continued
I'm not sure what you meant by that. The pulley was turning freely when I tried to remove the bolt. I stuck a short screw driver in one of the holes in the pulley, held it in place with one hand and loosen the bolt with a socket wrench with the other hand. The upper clutch roller bearing/spinner shaft/ and clutch hub roller bearings are all rusted together as one piece. From your clutch fix post it looks like all three pieces should come apart. Mine are all seized together and rusted. I'm going to try and free them tonight. Are these parts only available from Maytag?
Thanks Mike
Hi Rich,
I was able to tap out the shaft and it was pretty rusted together. It was so bad I wasn't able to put the shaft back in without hammering it in. My dad happened to be over and he decided to try and clean out the bearings and shaft. He was able to clean it up pretty good and we installed the pulley assembly back for a test run. I'm happy to report that the washer is back in operation. I'm still going to replace the pulley assembly because on one of the wash loads, the motor locked up. I had a Lr on the display. I paused it, spun the tub and also spun the motor from the belt and started up the wash again. It finished the load without a problem. I think you are right about the tub leak. When I was installing the pulley back there was a little water around where the pulley bolts to. The clutch is now going for $75.99 plus 5.95 shipping at appliance zone. I'll try calling Maytag directly try to pick one up for $50. It's nice to have a usable washer again. Thanks for all your help. I truly appreciate your instructions and the time you've taken to help. Couldn't of figured or fixed this problem without your help. Thanks Mike
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