Stops and lights flash like Xmas tree and inlet valve opens/close

Hi, that sounds like you have a fault in the water inlet valve. Best get checked or replace the water inlet valve.

HI,

If your dishwasher leaks, check these:

Main tub seal
Door gasket or seal
Water-inlet valve
Hoses
Main tub seal Note… If the main motor of your dishwasher is mounted vertically, beneath the center bottom of the dishwasher, the following instructions probably apply to you. But if your motor is mounted horizontally, the pump isn't serviceable--you need to replace the entire pump and motor assembly.

The main tub seal is beneath the drain impeller. It prevents the water in the dishwasher from leaking out near the shaft of the motor. To get to the seal, which is inside the dishwasher, remove the:

• Lower rack



• Spray arm



• Spray arm support



• Wash/drain impellers

Then pry the seal out of its housing and replace it.

Door gasket or seal Over time, door gaskets and seals harden and lose their ability to seal properly. You can't repair the seals. You need to replace them if they've begun to leak.

Water-inlet valve The water-inlet valve, itself, seldom leaks. But, the water-supply line from the house and the rubber tube leading from the valve to the inside of the dishwasher may leak. Tighten or repair/replace these as necessary.

The water-inlet valve could mechanically stick open. When that happens, the water continues to flow into the dishwasher, which then floods your kitchen. Turn off the water supply to the dishwasher, and replace the valve.

Hoses Behind the lower access panel on your dishwasher are several rubber or plastic hoses. If the leak appears at a connection, try a new clamp. If that doesn't work, replace the hose.

two things to look at : water level sensor ? seems I once had a machine that the water inlet valve never totally shut off and it overfilled basin this shut machine off on a spill sensor fault but took several minutes to do this , Also the door closed switch , seems they do get finicky as time goes on and even thought door stays closed the movement of machine opens the door switch up (not the door) this also takes several minutes to occur

What's the model number? How old is this dishwasher? The new GE dishwashers (less than 3 years old) have a weakness in the door switch/latch assembly, and that would cause the light to flash - it wants you to press Start and close the door, but it's not recognizing that the door is closed.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ronald_e6b9572cebe3ad27

Run the dishwasher through a test mode


Test Mode


Make sure the appliance is empty of water before running Diagnostics as it does not pump out before starting to fill and therefore you could overfill the appliance.
Open the door and set the program to the first program. (Normally rinse).
Turn the power off.
Press and hold the start button and while holding turn the power on.
After a little while the start button will flash, release the button.
Press the start button once and close the dishwasher door.
The machine will now run through a diagnostic routine.
Should take about 20 mins.
The machine will stop during diagnostics if an error is found and will display the error code. If no error is found it will complete the diagnostics and end the programme.

To exit diagnostics at any time just press and hold the start button till the programme is cancelled
Error codes


F1. Single flash. NTC Break. NTC open circuit/short circuit or ambient temperature less than 3 Celcius

F2. 2 Flashes. Water leakage. Floater switch LS6 in drip tray has switched.

F3. 3 Flashes. Heating system defect. Heater or relay on control board defect. Chack also cabling.

F4. 4 Flashes. Draining failure. Drain pump, control board OWI or water indicator defect.

F5. 5 Flashes. Sprayarm Blocked (not present on VBL version. On 1 digit display will show as F and flashing start led).

F6. 6 Flashes. Water valve (WV1) is switched on but flow meter (FM) senses no impulses (less than 10 impulses in 10 secs) and the water indicator (WI) is at a low level
Water Valve Closed. Water inlet hose blocked.
Water inlet valve (WV1) defective. Flow meter (FM) defective (leads to FM failure)

F7. 7 Flashes. Flow meter failure. Flow meter defect. Water inlet valve defect or water inlet hose blocked.

F8. 8 Flashes. Water level failure. Sieve strongly dirty or big amount of foam inside to less water.

F9. 9 Flashes. Continuously Water Inlet. Water inlet valve mechanically not closed or control board defect.

FA. 11 Flashes. OWI failure. Dirty OWI lens. OWI defect or control board defect. Check cabling.

FB. 12 Flashes. Motorised Diverter Valve

FC. 13 Flashes. Water Hardness Sensor Failure

A fault with no fault code indication = faulty module

Read more: http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=200838#ixzz2zKhYFHxt

techbuster

• Rank: Guru
• Rating: 92%, 2877 Votes

1. Crack open door
2. Within 3 seconds push Hi-Temp Scrub, Heat Dry, Hi-Temp Scrub, Heat Dry
3. Close and latch door
4. Press Cance

Try the above steps and also check the video in link given below to know detailed explantion on what the light means

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hv7xOaucH7I

Possible fault could be with the door closing swtich, the inlet filter, the inlet valve, low flow of water or fault in the main board. you will have to check this out one by one, open the door and inside the latch lock, there is a limit switch. use a cleaning spray. next check the inlet pipe connection, open to check for low pressure , dirt in the filter. Next you need to open the panels and see if there is any wire damage, insect attack on PCb. The water level sensor also could be another culprit. Since the PCB is epoxy layered it wil be difficult to check the componets. But try this out see if this advice helps..Good Day

Ran across this today. Ge dishwasher normal light just blinks and beeps when latch is locked. I had to replace the control module and it repaired issues right away. Hope this helps

press sani and heat back and fourth then after all lights light close door and hit start then wait about 3 minutes. worked for me

Check that the water supply is turned on. The valve may be located under the sink.

Check the door latch

Test the door switch

Inspect the float assembly

Inspect the fill tube for kinks

Test the float switch

Check the inlet valve filter screens

Test the water inlet valve

Test the drain valve lever arm

Check the drain valve

The door latch pulls the door tightly closed to prevent water leakage around the door. It is also designed to prevent operation while the door is open. The door latch works in concert with the door switch to ensure that the door is tightly closed and latched. The door switch is a separate part from the door latch and is found inside the cabinet. The switch is off when the door is open. Depressing the switch closes the circuit and enables dishwasher operation. Closing the door does not depress the switch all the way. Only when the door is closed and latched, does the door fully depress the switch.
If the door latch is not properly aligned it may not pull the door tightly closed and the door switch will not be fully depressed. Unless the switch is fully depressed the dishwasher will not operate.
It is a simple matter to determine whether the door latch is the problem. Simply open the door, close the latch and select a cycle and depress the switch. Note that if the test is successful, with the door open, the dishwasher will operate and water may spray out. Make sure to first remove all tools from inside the dishwasher. Do not reach inside the dishwasher during the test. Now, inspect the cabinet where the door makes contact with it and locate the door switch. It may have a protruding button or spike or more likely it is a hole with a piece of metal or plastic inside it. You must fully depress that switch. If the switch is recessed, then use a non-conductive object, such as a wooden pencil, to depress the switch