Wiring i have tried to wire this model 1RC5E6VA compressor up but it dosn't want to run on 220 but if i hook it up 110 it wants to run but very slow can you tell me if if you can change the motor wiring to run 220 when i got this compressor i never got a manual so i am not sure how to wire it up can you tell if you think the start capcitor maybe gone if it dosn't want to speed up ad run on 110 any help would be great thanks chris

You can\'t run it on 220, but if you take only one of the 220 black wires and attach it to the black on the compressor you are feeding it 110. The problem will be that you have no neutral wire so you\'d have to use the ground of the 220 lead (green) as the neutral on the compressor (white). It\'ll run fine but it\'s not the right way and it can be a hazard. The white wire is neutral which is basically a ground wire from the electric company, the green is the ground wire in your building and it\'s there for safety so using it to power things is dangerous and probably illegal. I\'ve done it in a pinch, but wouldn\'t do it if at all avoidable. You may be able to get a transformer but you\'re probably better off running a 110 circuit or getting a 220 compressor.

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I reversed start winding to reverse motor now it runs the right direction but it keeps starting instead of running smooth

My bet is that the motor is designed for 220/240 (single or three phase), but you're running in on 110 single phase. If the belt were slipping it would sound like the belt on a car (you know when someone starts their car and belt is loose and goes "Sccrreeeeeee" until the rev the engine and make the belt catch up to the pully).

The power in wood working motors is such that it should be very difficult to slow down the motor if you're feeding at a slow rate. But, if the motor needs 220 and you're powering with 110, then the motor will have no power (the magnets in the motor are matched with the voltage - and if you have the wrong voltage you won't get any power and the speed will be very slow).

Typically the "home" or "residential" tools only run on 110, but if you have a larger unit they can be wired for 220 or 110. If you bought the planer used, they may have been running with 220 and now you're powering with 110 (or vice versa). I'd do a quick google search for your unit to see what it's capable of. Or, just take the model number of the motor (not the planer) and search for that.

Typically, motors can be run at 110 or 220 for larger wood working tools. Inside the metal housing where the wire feeds into are a number of wires to connect to. These wires have numbers on them (either a tag or printed on the wire insulation) and you attach them a certain way for 110 and a different way for 220. Sometimes you can even change the direction of the motor - SO BE CAREFULL IF YOU REWIRE IT! don't power it up all the way on the first try. Just start it and then stop it while the motor is still coming up to speed. While the planer is still spinning (even though the motor is off) feed your board in slowly and you'll be able to tell which way the motor is spinning. If you get the wrong direction on your motor you can shoot boards across the shop (or out into the street if you're in the garage - like I did).

The wiring diagram is on the outside of the
motor case, on most motors,on the label

Also on the inside of the wiring connection
cover

Are you sure you got the right burners. Sounds like they gave you a 220 volt burner with one wire red and the other black.

Check the voltage rating of the capacitor. If the cap was only rated and 110 and 220 was supplied, it could have blown the cap.

Depending on how long 220 was supplied to the compressor and if the compressor was running, you may have damaged the compressor motor and burnt it out. I simple check with an ohmmeter will determine that.

What is the solenoid you speak of? If its hooked into the compressor electrical, then its the start relay. If its hooked into a refrigerant line and has wires coming off it, it may be a solenoid or a pressure switch.


Best bet would be to have the system looked over. The compressor may be locked up or have failed due to excessive voltage supplied.

Usually there is some type of labelled switch where the wire terminals are. Of course you will have to remove one of the hot leads. Hope this helps. You didn't say what type of compressor you have. Good luck!

5600 watts will not operate off 120 volts.
This is a 220/240 volt hookup.
There are 2 legs of 120 volts each that operate the dryer.
The only part requiring 220v is the heater.
Otherwise 120v routes through the various controls and relays.

Most brands of air comperssors are built to work on either 220 or 110 v. I believe that 220 v compressors are more efficient and draw less current and run cooler.
The more expensive compressors have a switch allowing for voltage selection. Still others will have a wiring diagram printed on the motor allowing voltage change by changing jumpers. Most all of the sears compressors that I have repaired were of single voltage with no other way to change except change motor. Do not worry however, you have the better motor. It is easier to convert the outlet plug to 220 by isolating the circuit and installing a 220 v breaker. enjoy

If there is no 220 outlet in the location where you're planning to put the stove then you need to run wiring to the new location. There are two seperate phases of 110 volts coming to your home. The voltage between each of these phases and the neutral wire is 110 volts. When your house was wired only 1 of the 110 volt signals was run to your 110 volt outlets. In order to create a 220 volt outlet you need both of the 110 volt signals run to the outlet.

If you have a straight shot between your breaker box and the location where you need the 220 volt outlet then this is not too big a deal. If you have finished ceilings and walls inbetween then this will be much more difficult.

If you're not comfortable with electrical wiring this would be a good time to call a licensed electrician.