Wiring a thermostat on a milk cooler has spade 1 & 2 which is power

This should cover it.

you read the catalogue.

This model of Honeywell thermostat uses the 24v from the unit to power it. One of three things must have happened.

1. You have lost power to the furnace, therefore no power to thermostat.
2. You only have 4 wires hooked up on the thermostat and not 5. A lot of older homes had just 4 wire running to the thermostat, which will not work for this thermostat. You should have a wire connected to the (C) or (B) terminal on the thermostat, which ever one they have, I can't remember off hand. These are the Common terminals. They have to have the common from the furnace 24v power to operate.
3. Faulty thermostat, which will obviously have to be replaced.

Hope this helps and gets you to cooler days!

Sounds like the new thermostat and ECO you installed, You may have got them mixed up. The ECO will have a small reset push button in between the 2 spade connectors. The ECO should be second in line, as in power to it comes from the thermostat. Hot (black) line from switch goes to thermostat first, then from opposite spade on thermostat to spade on ECO, then out from ECO to element. Double check wiring or positioning of thermostat and ECO, and correct as needed, and make sure to push reset in center of ECO, then try again. Be sure both are touching up against tank well too.
The thermostat has a little lower temperature setting, and if it fails, ECO takes over and cuts out at a little higher temperature. That's why I suspect they got mixed up, otherwise thermostat (without reset) should have cut power at proper temperature, unless it's faulty, or not touching against tank properly.

Let me know how you make out and what you found.

Does yours have the little cut-out diode looking thing in the plastic jacket installed between power wire and thermostat? If yes, remove it from the circuit and connect female spade of wire, to male spade of thermostat,(just removing it to by-pass it) and try it now. Let me know what happens.

One thing you may want to try, if it has electronic ignition, is to remove the thermal cut-off diode from the circuit temporarily. It's the little diode inside the clear plastic tube, that is connected to your incoming power wire, and connects to thermostat. Simply remove it from the spade connector at the thermostat, and pull it apart at spade connector from incoming power wire, and connect incoming power wire to spade connector on thermostat. If you try to light it now, and all works good, the diode is faulty, and should be replaced.

There will be 2 wires hooked up in order for the system to operate, the color of the wires are not really stanard, allot of installers will use colors of their choice, it usually is yellow and blue, but the only way to know for sure is to remove the thermostat from the wall and see what colors are hooked to the "Y" and "C:" terminals... then make sure that those two colors are connected to the 2 wires that are out in the outdoor unit - air conditioner, at the outdoor unit, it does not matter which color goes to the wires.
example: lets say the outdoor unit has 2 yellow wires, and lets say that the 2 wire that are connected to the "Y" and "C" terminals at the thermostat are yellow and blue, just hook the blue wire to one of the yellow wires that come out of the outdoor section of the air conditioner, then hook the yellow fron the thermostat to the other wire coming out of the air conditioner. All it is doing is energizing a coil in the contactor in the outdoor unit, like a light switch that gives power to the compressor. Now........
If the 2 wires coming from the thermostat were touched together, that would creat a direct short in the 24 volt circuit in the furnace - inside of the house, hopefully the model of furnace or air handle will have a spade type automotive fuse located on the computer board in the furnace, if so this would save the board from shorting out, so look on the board, find the fuse and see if it is blown, if so replace it with a automotive spade fuse of the same type, usually 3 or 5 amp. If there is no fuse it is a good chance that the 24 volt transformer of the board itself is shot - this will require a AC tech.
NOTE: Turn of power to the furnace and the A/C outside, before looking at anything. The thermostat wire to the out door unit is a 24 volt line, this is usually a pencil or smaller sized wire, "Brown" or sometimes "White".
I wish you the best, and hope it helps, I am new to this site, so I am still getting use to it.
Sincerely,
Paul Gibson

Hi, this can be confusing. Be sure you have the power off before you wire it, but first you have to have an elect meter. The 6 wires in the box you will only use 2 of them. Cap the other 4 off. Use the 2 that have the correct voltage across them, 208, 220, 240 volts. The new stat is only set up for 2 hot wires 120 each. That will do it. Not to bad. be careful! Use care. Good Luck, Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

Am taking out my element so can tell you.
First 2 thick greys:
easiest: a short lead with white conector at each end: one end joins element, on right hand spade, and other end to left (at about 9.30/10) spade on thermostat.
the other grey goes to lowest spade on thermostat (about 6.30/7, if it were a clock)
Thinner White leads: impossible to say, as same length, indistinquisable: you will just have to experiment with the 2 spades left; as its both on a thermostat I don't feel there's any risk of breaking it/any part

It sounds like the thermostat is "stuck closed". Try unplugging the cooler, MAKE SURE ALL POWER HAS BEEN DISCONECTED. Remove thermostat cover with thermostat on it. Carefully pull one of the wires spade connectors off the thermostat. Insulate the end of the wire you disconected with electrical tape. Now plug the cooler back in. If the compressor stays off the thermostat is the problem. Let me know if that helps. I know of a common replacement cold controll for that unit:)