Craftsman DYT 4000 riding mower: Last year I notice the mower has lost some power. Going up hill and blowing the grass back to the bag catchers. I installed a new carburetor, magneto, fuel filter, higher grade gas, new fuel pump and air filter. No difference in the mower. This year when I started the mower for routine maintenance I engage the blades the mower died. I tried 5 time before the mower finally stayed running. HELP!!!!! whats the deal?

Your residential water heater is not 9000 watts. Or it would blow the fuse every day and melt the wire. Instead, you have dual-element non-simultaneous 4500 watt water heater.
http://waterhatertimer.org/How-it-works.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Figure-Volts-Amps-Watts-for-water-heater.html
Look at label for 'total connected watts'
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Whirlpool-energy-smart-watt-rating-IMG_2600.jpg
25 amp breaker or fuse and 10 gauge wire is minimum acceptable for 4500 watt water heater.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-code-wire.html
Troubleshoot blowing breaker or fuse:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html#trip-breaker
Why does it blow fuse once each year?? I don't know.
Fuses and breakers trip when overheating occurs on wire.
Each fuse or breaker is rated for heat, and over time, it will get hot and then cool and then get hot again ... this action weakens fuse or breaker.
To solve problem: install 3500 watt elements (and clean sediment out of tank). Wire will run cooler, and fuse will last longer. Whole fuse box will demand less power, and run cooler, and will last longer as a result. So there is less stress on electric service panel.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html
3500 watt element will heat water to same temperature, but takes longer. For example: 4500 watt heats 21 gallons per hour, while 3500 watt heats 17 gallons per hour.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Before calling service technician, read manual troubleshoot section.
It is possible there is simple do-it-yourself solution.
You posted under Universal Heavy duty 75 gallon commercial water heater.
Open following links to identify specific water heater and download manual:
The manual has wealth of maintenance information that should be done yearly by trained technician, which will genuinely help this $4000 water heater last many years longer than expected.
http://www.rheem.com/products/commercial/water_heating/commercial_gas/
http://www.rheem.com/product.aspx?id=0697944D-D79A-40C1-BDEB-875E48200DD1
http://globalimageserver.com/fetchDocument.aspx?id=c0b73553-5f03-4a5e-8789-4732ffecdccf
http://www.drillspot.com/products/155234/Rheem_G75-125_Commercial_Water_Heater?s=1

There is likely an onboard relay stuck in the open position.

This is a gas appliance and should be serviced by an authorized BOSCH repair center to avoid potential catastrophe.


Thanks!!
2

Problem can also be lack of air to the combustion area. Vacuum the area towards the bottom of the tank where the vent holes are. Also, I had a resident that had fans blowing out of her apartment windows this summer. We had the same problem with the pilot light and even replaced the thermocouple. Problem continued and even had CO in the home when the tank was firing. She was creating a back draft and pulling the exhaust gases into the apartment from the hotwater tank. It took time to figure it out.

Is your air pressure regulator set very low? Try adjusting it to a higher pressure

Sounds like it could be a dirty or bad flame sensor.
When the burner lights ,there is a flame sensor in the flame and it is suppose to sense the flame and send a signal back to the control board which will keep the gas valve open, if it gets dirty or is bad it doesn't send the signal back to the board and the board will shut the gas valve off and after three tries it will lock out the furnace and you have to reset it to get it to work again.
The flame sensor looks like a wire and it's in the flame usually it will get gas deposits on it, then it won't work.
You can clean this sensor with an extra fine piece of steel wool, but before you attempt to do this DISCONNECT ALL POWER TO THE FURNACE.

Make sure you have power going to elements from thermostats. check lines going to elements.

Luke warm water is the result of an element gone bad most of the time. One at th etop gone will cause you to get just luke warm water and one at the bottom gone will give you real hot and then cold.


The elements are not to exspensive so if it has two you might as well replace both of them. If you just put 1 new one in it will work the old one till it goes.

Cut power off and cut water off to water heater and drain heater, open hot side on any faucet to help it drain. once drained remove element they have a tube type socket at hardware stores for the removal of it.

Put elements in and fill water heater till all air is out of lines before turning power back on. make sure water is flowing out of all faucets before turning power onto water heater.

The reason being is the elements has to be in water not open air in tank or it will blow new ones.

perhaps the aquastat is ending a power surge to the primary, blowing it, id repl aquastat

I have the same problem. Water heater operates on a very simple principle. of thermo-mechanical feed-back and response. In my case, I have a Kenmore Power Miser 6, NG heater with an electronic pilot ignition system. The heater is just over one year old and last month (conveniently just after the 12 month service warranty expired) the pilot light started extinguishing on a very regular basis. I find it interesting that the very problem I am experiencing, is happening to other Kenmore owners (victims). The solution can be found in replacing one of two possible components; the pilot assembly or the gas valve manifold. The price of DIY pilot assembly replacement is approx. $60 . The valve component is significantly higher. Water heaters are designed and built to provide years of trouble-free reliable service. This is the first Kenmore product I have owned. From a customer perspective, with regard to product performance, Sears/Kenmore needs to take a strong look at their supplier quality. Oh, by the way, contacting Sears for remedial relief only managed to frustrate and infuriate me. You see, I am in Quality for a world-class aircraft company. I understand what ethical steps are required to satisfy a valued customer. I plan on ripping out the defective unit this weekend and replacing it with a reliable Home depot special. At least with HD, if the heater fails to perform , I can return it. Hey Sears in Chicago, don't come crying to the consumer when you are looking for the trendy "bail out". Signed- "Burned Out" in La Habra, California.