How to replace rear hatch hinges - 1999 Ford Explorer

Do you mean the gas strut (piston) that holds the hatch open? You can get a replacement at https://www.ebay.com/itm/174080374696. If you mean the hinges on which the door swings, that sounds like a welding job--- they're integral to the vehicle frame.

Hi, check your lift supports or the hinges. If they're dented or bent, they might let the hatch open but not come back down.

Here's a link with a picture of the locations of the lift support and hinges. I hope this helps.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v453/leadnbrass/0050.jpg

For a few years there were recalls on some rear hinges for the hatches. Run the Vin# to see if anything is listed.

Usually there are adjustments on hinge mounts and on the latch mechanism. New rubber moulding would help if the current moulding is torn or compressed.

If you have a sunroof, it may have a drain which is plugged or disconnected at some point and allows water to enter and dump rearward.

In a worst case scenario, the vehicle may have been hit and the opening is not straight enough to seal.

This problem sounds like a body shop or glass shop problem.

when you lift the hatch open up by the roof there are two hinges with three bolts to each hinge thats where it comes off depending on if its power you will need to unplug the harness and that is ran under the head liner not much involved in changing a rear hatch good luck

I supported the hatch and removed the hinges from the hatch.

those nuts are 5/16ths.

try slowly opening and closing the rear hatch-door with the wiper switch on and see if wiper trie to operate.I had an intermittent problem with no sound coming from any speakers,but I could see from the radio display that the station and song were being displayed,by chance Iopened the rear hatch and the sound came blaring out of all the speakers.Turns out there is an electrical cable that comes from the roof area into the center of the rear hatch(between the hinges) and from flexing as the hatch opens and closes several wires broke and would intermittently make up and sometimes go open again.Took vehicleto dealership and the fixed and or replaced that part of the wiring harness,claiming they had not seen that problem before,seems hard to believe,as no doubt all of these models had the same wiring harness.--Good luck

makes me wonder if it is just the hinge that is bent and maybe the body where it attaches to the van. At the same time I doubt some thing easy will do away with the $2k expense (sorry). Maybe an entire back hatch with hinges from salvage yard (make sure to get same color).

open the rear hatch. Between the tail light housing and the rear hatch opening there is a trim strip with two flush fitted flap doors. Insert a small straight blade screwdriver into the small slot on the tail light side of the flap. Pry gently inboard and the small flap will open (the hinge side of the flap is on the side of the rear hatch opening.) Now you can remove the screws that hold the tail lamp assembly in place. Finally, there is still a "spear point" clip that fits into a socket near the front outboard corner of the assembly. Gently pry with a tape wrapped screwdriver (avoids scratches) and force the assembly straight back. The clip should release and free the assembly so you can change the bulb(s).

FRONT DEFROSTER IS VACCUM OPERATED, ON PASSENGER SIDE REMOVE PANLE TO THE CENTER CONSOLE, YOU'LL SEE A CANISTES SHAPED IN TENNIS BALS IN SECUENCE, START THERE TO CHECK FOR VACCUM PROBLEM.
REAR DEFROSTER/WIPER/WASHER ON HATCH.OPEN REAR HATCH ON DRIVER'S SIDE HINGE YOU'LL SEE A WIRING HARNES GOIN THROUGH USUALLY THAT HARNES BRAKES , LOOSING CONTACT TO ALL OF THE ELECTRICALS IN HATCH DOOR, EASY REPAIR. REMOVE HINGE GET SOMETHING TO HOLD HATC OPEN, LIKE LONG BROOM.PULL OUT HARNES AND REPAIR.GOOD LUCK