I need a dual burner switch for my Amana cooktop model ak2h30hr

Will any of these work?

http://www.repairclinic.com/Amana-Drip-Bowl-Drip-Pan-Parts

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/range-cooktop-oven-drip-pan.html

http://www.knobshopper.com/manufacturers/Amana-Replacement-Parts/cooktop_burner_drip_pans_bowls

it is not a fuse. as if it shorted it may blow it and then nothing .. the sw to either one burner is at fault replace the sw 's ( both and the cook top should be ok . sw cost around 25 to 40 ea ..

raise cook top out of counter and remove screws holding glass top to base . remove glass and on the right is switch bank two screws holding each / remove and do not pull wires. but transfer one at a time noting that markings on old sw match new . . sw pt # is 12002125 and cost 49.35. and reinstall in reverse.. hope this helps . and do turn off the power before you start. mm good sailing .,

Take a look at the solutions that have been posted regarding igniters. i suspect a dirty or wet push-down knob. you will see that others have had water/moisture causing problems. drying mights solve it, but it may need a a bit of a clean. keep trying. it must have taken me a couple of hours to solve.

first check the wiring to the burner itself you might have a burnt connection to the larger one or a bad receptacle if both are good then you would have to buy a new burner try allbrands appliance parts they seem to be cheaper

The part you need to replace is the switch. The switch is housed under the top and connects to the dial you are turning.
The switch for the dual burner is 12002125, and 74011242 for the single burner.

The single burner switch runs about $20.00 and the dual runs about $50.00 for the parts

Amana will confirm this - but I am fairly sure that the elements under the glass are replaceable. Most units by other manufacturers are repairable...but if yours is not, then careful shopping around will save a ton on parts cost.
Labor will vary by market...but it is typically better to have the replacement part when contacting a repair service.

Oh, yes, the snap is a broken burner element. the breaker trips because the resistance on a shorted element is insufficient - and the current draw becomes excessiver - popping the breaker.

I just wanted the name of the part and possible sources. Not worth paying $14 for.
I found it else where.

You should give your prices up front, before users spend any time trying to use your site.

I just had a similar cooktop installed with a micro over it. From the bottom of the upper cabinet to the top of the burner frames you need 33 1/2 inches and from the bottom of the micro to the burner frames you need a minimum of 16 1/2 inches.

Sounds like a short in that particular burner circuit. Usually when the light stays on even after cool down the heat sensor is bad. This is inside the burner. If your getting white smoke the burner switch could also be shorted out.