We havent purchaced this cooktop yet but are putting in electrical outlets do we need a 110 outlet for this model?

check the power to your oven and make sure that you have 110 volt in your outlet using a voltmeter.

Go to the supplier/outlet you purchased it from....they will have one from their demo room.

It would be a good idea to plan for an outlet for the cooktop. most do use 120 volts for the spark device. Locate it behind or below the cooktop so it will not be confused with your countertop outlets.

Please Vote !!

Check that electric power closely. A boil over and attempted re-start or water (or other liquid) leaked / spilled into an igniter switch can trip your GFI outlet. Sometimes the outlet the cooktop is plugged into is fed from a GFI recepticle further " up stream " so you may have to look around to find a GFI which has tripped.

4 wire recepticals are used for 220 Volt appliances, there should be 2 hot (117V to ground) and one each Grounding and grounded (read neutral) conductors) Breaker or disconnect should be 2 pole for 220 Volt circuit. A 20 Amp 110/117 Volt circuit would have a single pole breaker or disconnect, one "hot" conductor(should be black or colored , not green or white), one neutral conductor (should be white or neutral with white stripe) and an equipment grounding conductor (should be green or bare copper). It sounds to me like your receptical was wired for 220 V using whatever colored wires were handy. Back up to breaker or fuse (disconnect), and shut off circuit. New 117 Volt outlet will be wired with Black to Brass colored screw (short slot on face), One White wire will be used for Neutral conductor (make sure you know which one it is at the breaker panel) and one of the other white wires may (but shouldent be) used for ground (use green marker to identify it at each end),The third white wire should be removed if you can, otherwise cap with wire nut at each end and coil up in back of boxes. At the breaker/ fuse panel, the Black wire is connected to the breaker (It will be your "hot" lead), The white being used for the Neutral is connected to the neutral buss bar with the other Neutrals, and the green goes to the grounding buss bar (should have other green or bare copper wires. Once all is properly connected and secured but without the disposal plugged in, turn on the power and check for leaking smoke (smoke here is a bad thing) The fuse or breaker should protect your wires and help keep that smoke inside the boxes. Check voltages at the new plug, 117 V accross Short and longer slot, 117 from short to ground (round) and 0 or close to it from long (Neutral) to ground. If voltages check, plug in the new appliance and test.
If in doubt about what you have, dont hesitate to contact an electrician, they get paid for their knowledge and experiance and their ability to keep that nasty smoke inside the boxes.
Good Luck.,

We just had that problem - the igniter is electric - if none of the burners are "clicking" it could be a power problem. unplug the stove and check whether the outlet is working. In our case, the outlet the stove is plugged into has a "GFI outlet with a reset button. So we reset the outlet and that fixed the problem.

I would use the 220volt 60amp available at any hardware store. Just make sure you check the wall outlet you are going to use. The Dryer and Range are not the same.

 You have Red and Black HOT wires and a Green Neutral - That is 220 volts. From the wall - Black is Normally HOT and White is Neutral. That is 110 volts. If that is a typical household outlet, is will only supply a demand at about 15 amps while running at 110 volts. Your Cooktop will most likely demand somewhere around 50 amps at 220 volts. - Short Answer - You will need to have a 220 volt supply line ran to the cooktop from the breaker. Easy to do but dangerous if you are unfamiliar with high voltage. 

the spark modual is bad and needs to be replaced