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The reason the clothes are so hot and the cause of the thermal cutoff going out in the first place was due to very poor air flow through out the dryer causing excessive heat to be built up in the dryer. What needs to be checked is for built up lint in the blower housing and or a blocked/ restricted vent tube.
Wow. In electric dryers with an AUTO cycle; the heater runs on 220 volts, but the timer motor runs on 110 volts. There is a resistor in the system to cut down the voltage. If the resistor is bad, you will see the same symptoms as if a thermostat was bad. The timer motor will not run in the automatic cycle. You need to make sure that you test for continuity in the resistor. I've looked at two parts diagrams for your washer and cannot find a sensor anywhere in either, so the thermostat is what tells the timer to advance once the dryer reaches a preset temperature. The thermostat will only tell the timer to advance if the dryer reaches the proper temperature, if you have some clogging in the vents, the dryer may never reach the proper temperature, and thus not advance on the auto cycle. but i'm sure you've probably checked that. I'm baffled. Let me know how it pans out if you can. Thanks. I'm still trying to find a wiring diagram for that model.
Dryer will run forever if it doesnt heat up, Dryer has to heat up and thermostat has to get hot and open to start the timer. Odds are rally great, it is your heating element.
Most common cause of this is a clogged venting going to the outside to test this remove the vent from the back of the dryer and run a load if it drys ok them you know you have a venting issue and will need to be cleaned out if not plz repost and we can look deeper into it
Either the heater element is breaking or is loose and getting only 110V instead of 240V. First I would check the wall outlet with a voltmeter for 240V between Line1 and Line2. Also check the connections and continuity for the heater element.
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