Motor works, will not grind, need to replace burr,is it a simple fix?

No brand or model? Okay, general reasons why grinders clog up. Most common I've found is worn out burrs. The plates, depends on composition and usage. Metal plates last longer but not forever. If your grinding thousand pounds of beans don't expect it to last. I've seen massive grinders fail within a month. It all depends on two factors; How much and how fine. Large grind size will increase life and fine grinds wear the burrs out very fast. Especially Turkish settings. Fine grinds also generate a lot of heat. This can cook the coffee again and make it change in flavor. Heat also forces the oils in the bean to coat the burrs and make them dull out which causes more heat. Prolong grinding will also burn out motor.
* Worse case senario; Very oily beans ground to espresso fine. This is usually the case with 'local' roasters. Poor quality beans, extreme roasting (pushing the max on toasting limits), and extreme fine grinds for a particular roast. Fine grinding tends to work on dryer beans. Heavy moisture (under roasted or beans not aged enough to outgas and dry out) will gum up any grinder. Let your roaster know what your trying to do. Otherwise go with a name brand and correct bean for the flavor profile your looking for. Don't expect 5 star espresso from a cheap roast.
* Final, most likely worn burrs needs to be changed out. Off chance the motor is burnt out or starter capacitor needs replacement. If it is the motor or cap, then you need to review your grinding methods as grinder motors are usually tough enough to handle the range of grinds listed in the specs. burning the motor is a clear sign of abuse.
* Have your vendor look at the grinder. They will know right away what's wrong.
Aloha, ukeboy57

Humm, G-3 grinders. Okay what common problems I've come across:
* Wrong setting for grind on label. Usually means worn out grinder burrs. But this does not happen often unless you are using it to grind commercial amounts of coffee? It's a retail level grinder meant to be user friendly and simple to use. Say grind a bag of beans once every 10 mins or so even with customers lined up to grind there own. Running a G-3 constantly is usually done by upcoming coffee vendors whom are using it for small flavored bean batches. But expect the burr plates to only last 3 to 6 months. We used to change it every month till the boss bought a bigger pro grinder. (whew!)
* Out of calibration (for grind) This usually happens as soon as it's installed. Either the grinder got banged (Dropped?) around or the lock nut was not tighten down. If caught quickly then it's a simple adjustment. Left unchecked will wear out the burrs or crack the plate.
* Trips out breaker. This is common at retail stores as it's located in a shelf rack that really does not have the required outlets. Many times there is a brewer(s) connected to the same line. It only trips out when one or both brewers are heating and the grinder is running a very fine grind.
* Trips out breaker when grinding espresso or very fine grinds. Worn burrs or slim chance the grinder was miss calibrated (but you would catch this when first installed)
* Shocks the customer. Dry climates or heavy air conditioning will build up static electricity at the chute. There usually a small chain attached to the chute to prevent this. Attach a SHORT metal chain or thin cable to the metal case of the grinder and add a metal clip to attach to the coffee bag. Many use a chain and clip just short enough to keep the bag positioned under the chute. Note many coffee bags come with bag clips. Just make sure the clip and chain can't get stuck in the grinder.
* Not working. This is usually the on/off switch as it gets beat up the most. There is sometimes a safety micro switch under the chute to sense if there is a bag there. I've found may have been defeated.
* No power, check cord, breaker (GFRI) outlet, Plug prongs if broken off or bent.
* power but no motor hum. Tripped thermal breaker (usually a red button on side or back. Some models may have it inside on the motor itself. Call for service to check.
* Turns on but loud hum (may be hot too). Burrs stuck. This could be from adjusting grinder while grinding beans and adjusting to a fine setting. Grinding finer slows down the beans feeding the burrs. Large settings flood the burrs with a lot of beans. Adjustments are usually done when the grinder hopper is completely empty. If loaded and turned down from coarse to fine grind the beans already in the burrs get crushed and stuck between the plates thus locking them in. It may be possible to clear the hopper and open up the grinder to its coarsest setting to jog out the crushed beans. Otherwise call for service to have the burrs cleared manually.
*Finally check with your vendor if your still having problems.

Aloha! ukeboy57

There are different possibilities for your problem. First the motor might be damaged and is more weak than before that is why is stop when it need to grind beans. In this case only with replacement motor can solve the problem.

Second probably due to long use of oily coffee or low quality coffee beans or other reason there are coffee grounded in the grinder that become like rubber and does not leave the new coffee to pass through grinding burrs. For this either you have to dismantle the whole grinder and its burrs and clean them with brush or you can use a new magic product that you can fin in eBay it can clean automatically the grinder in 30 second see it at the link

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PULY-GRIND-COFFEE-GRINDER-CLEANER-CRYSTALS-20-GRAMS-PACK-OF-3-PACKETS-/131031511160?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT


You can try the above fist and you may solve the problem in minutes if not then you can proceed with the replacement of the ginder burrs or motor.

Clean your burr mill before using it for the first time. Then, to ensure optimal mill function and durability, clean it regularly following these simple steps.

1. Always unplug your burr mill after use and before cleaning.
2. Open the hopper lid. Empty any whole beans from the hopper. Remove the top burr mill by rotating it clockwise. For better results hold the grind setting button while rotating the burr mill clockwise. This will allow you to clean the grinding wheel and the grinding compartment.
3. Clean the interior recesses with a soft brush. Note: Never use water or liquid for cleaning the lower grinding section of this appliance. BRUSH NOT INCLUDED.
4. Wipe the whole bean hopper, its lid and the mill exterior with a damp cloth.
5. The ground coffee chamber and lid can be washed in mild detergent and water. They both are top rack dishwasher safe. Do not immerse the mill or the whole bean hopper in water or any other liquid or place in dishwasher. Use only non-abrasive cleaners to remove stains.
6. After completely drying the whole bean hopper and top burr mill, replace the burr mill in position by aligning snaps with receptacle and rotating counterclockwise to lock it in position. For better results, hold the grind setting button while rotating the burr mill counterclockwise. Once the burr mill is in position, pull gently to check it is properly locked in position. If the burr mill comes out, repeat this step again.
7. Replace the ground coffee chamber and lid, making sure both snap securely into place.
8. Fill the hopper with whole beans.

BURRS are the metal parts that grinds the coffee. There are 2 BURRS in the grinders, The upper burr is normally the one you adjust (Fine or coarse) and the lower or closer to the motor is the one turning during the grinding process.

First, I'm not a Baratza tech, but I have worked on commercial grinders. You should contact your vendor for service.
*** The following is for information only ***
* check on line for your model parts manual. The diagrams will help you identify the parts needed and should provide instructions on replacing/cleaning the burrs.
* As you've figured out, cleaning with rice is not a good idea.
* Burr plates do get dull and needs to be replaced. Longer grind times and frequent adjustments to get finer grinds is an indication of dull plates.
* The oil in the beans used gets caked up under and on the sides of the burr plates.
* Heavy usage and long grind times will melt the oils and fill every part of the burr chamber and even get into the motor and bearings. I've found oil in the on/off switches and rotary switches.
* The burr plates must be removed and chamber cleaned of all oil residue and beans (rice too). Use a vacuum cleaner and stiff brush to clean. Do not use water or any liquids in the burr chamber. You can clean the burrs in wash water once it's removed from equipment. Dry thoroughly before reinstalling.
* The motor should turn freely by hand (no power!) with nothing hitting the sides or under the plate. If it's difficult to turn or makes grinding or whirling noise. Then the lower plate needs to be removed and cleaned. The motor bearings will need to be replaced if the motor does not turn at all.
* Once cleaned and assembled(without any beans) Power up and check the operation. You should have a motor hum without any clanking or screeching (metal rubbing metal) sounds. Stop and power down if you do. Motor bearings are bad.
* If you get nothing then check the switches. Oil probably got in them. Replace.
* Runs okay? Then set the grinder to a large setting (like drip coffee; Turn on and allow to run while you drop some whole beans into the hopper. Use 1/4 cup or less. This should grind through smoothly.
* Placing another 1/4 cup of whole beans. Turn on grinder again. Just hums without grinding? Power down. Replace motor starter capacitor.
* The capacitor is round and usually attached to the motor like a 'hump' on the side or near the top. If you didn't take it apart then one of the wires in the switching side may be miss wired or loose. Check both for loose and correct wired. Careful around the capacitor as it may still have a charge! The capacitor is used to kick start the motor with it's heavy burr plates.
* If your still having problems with low power. Check the motor for burnt smell as you may have overheated and fried the motor. They usually have thermal resets, but if you kept forcing the reset to keep grinding then the motor is defiantly burnt out.
* Final; if everything is working but your not getting the fine grind setting (you should at least get espresso setting but not turkish) then the burrs are gone. It will only be good for drip coffee.
Aloha, ukeboy57

PS I found a cute video on how to clean the burrs (frequent cleaning)
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=baratza+virtuoso+grinder+cleaning+burrs&&view=detail&mid=41DCCF0EB0CACFEA9E4841DCCF0EB0CACFEA9E48&&FORM=VRDGAR

It's not a simple task. I would suggest service.

Charlie

Several possibilities loom:

1. Same burrs for 25 years? don't be cheap replace them!

2. Dirt in the threads of the burr carrier, or the threads that recieve it?

Let us know what works

It could well be gummed up with years of coffee bean residue

Very simple to take apart. There are two screws holding the cannister. They are hidden under 5mm round rubber covers that you have to pry off. Then remove the two screws holding the plastic cover. Mark the position of the numbered dial relative to the brass burr assembly then remove it. Once exposed, you should be able to figure out why it is locked. Scrape away as much gunk as you can.