Changed thread on serge pro SW 432. Now no chain or stitch.

Don't know what machine you have. With my machine, I can pull the finger back a little so that the thread still wraps around it but is able to slip off the end of the stitch finger, ie do not push the stitch finger all the way in so there is no outlet for the thread. You can serge without the stitch finger, but it does change the character of the stitch, ie it may cause the fabric edge to buckle.

A serger (overlocker) is not a sewing machine. If you look at the inside seams of a purchased t-shirt, you will usually find a serge stitch that was created using a serger (overlocker). A serger/overlocker usually uses 3 or 4 threads to create that stitch. It also trims the fabric at the same time it finishes the fabric edge. The serge stitch is a chain stitch that, if you pull a particular thread, the entire stitch will come undone.

Your sewing machine is not able to create that same stitch. Your sewing machine may have what is called an "overlock" stitch, but it will use only 2 threads (the top and bobbin) to create that stitch. You would have to consult your owner's manual to see if it can make an overlock stitch.


Different Serger Stitches and How to Use Them

The BERNINA Serger Overlocker line BERNINA

Hello

The serger chain will wrap or stack around the stitch fingers when stitching without fabric, this is normal. Place two layers of medium weight woven cotton under the presser foot and begin serging, the chain will wrap around the fabric cut edge to form stitches and 'push off' the originally stacked stitches.

Happy Serging
Sewingirl/

another expert has put up the manual on line previously, link is
http://www.cr-ar.com/sw432/sw432%20manual.pdf

check out their response here http://www.fixya.com/support/t2507530-need_manual_simplicity_pro_serger_sw432

no, you need the blade in place and cutting to give an even cut fabric edge. Set up for a three thread using the right hand needle, take out the left hand needle. move blade over to the right so it is cutting wide. Most overlockers there is also a thread finger you need to change on the foot, or a little lever you flick to move this finger forward into the stitching area. Check this on your manual as each make is a bit different.
If you can source it, put wooly nylon thread into the upper looper (knot it onto existing thread and just chain it through, the knot should go through the looper eye fine). Now turn the tension on top looper down so it is looser and tighten up tension on bottom looper, so needle 5, top looper 2 and bottom looper about 7.

Now test serge, the fabric cut edge should be wider than the overlocking seam so the fabric rolls under inside the stitching. Adjust the two looper threads so that this is happening, you want the bottom looper thread to nest right up against the needle stitch and the top looper thread to wrap all the way around too.

Once you've got this happening, turn the stitch length down to 0.5, to close the stitching right up. On some fabrics you'll need to adjust the differential feed too if the fabric is "waving" a bit.

Uneven stitches or sometimes loose when serging could indicate that one of the tension devices is faulting, so if this machine is not new and its doing this, it could need a service. Can you get a regular smooth three or 4 thread seam out if it???

It is always good to just recheck the threading path, make sure the thread aerial is up and that a thread hasn't got caught back on the thread stand somewhere if you're getting something wonky happening, threads stream off overlocker cones through the machine so anything wrong in the thread path will throw off the stitching.

your machine should have a stitch length dial on the right hand side above the flywheel, it might have numbers from 0.5 to 3 or 4, higher number for longer stitch (effectively this moves the foot and feed dogs faster in relation to the needles to make the stitch longer).

If you have the Serge Pro SW432 that your enquiry is linked to and you have not used a serger before, then definitely get hold of the manual, you will need it. Sergers are very different to sewing machines - once you've mastered one, its easy, but there is a learning curve.

Firstly, ALWAYS extend the thread aerial up, you'll see loads of images of sergers sitting nicely with the aerial in the lowered position, great for moving them to avoid damage. But they won't work well, a serger seams at 1500 stitches per minute and the thread streams off the cones so you need to ensure there is a good clear feed via the aerial to the tension dials.

Buy good quality thread cones and keep it out of the sun and dust. Cover your machine when not in use (lower the aerial first). You could start with white, grey and black thread as this will cover a lot of fabric prints/colours etc. To change thread colour, you will need to cut and knot on the new thread for the two loopers (right hand side cones) - do this about 6 inches above the first thread guide, and then chain off to feed these through down to the needle plate, when you see the new colour come through okay, stop. Repeat the process for the needle thread or threads (3 or 4 thead depending on what stitch you are sewing) but stop chaining when the thread knot is above the needles. Stop, loosen these tension dials and pull the thread down, cut out the knot with scissors and thread the new colour through the two needles. Use threading wires if you have them, or tweezers. Pull both these and the two looper threads together under the pressure foot, lower the foot, turn your tension dials back to 5 and chain off. The thread sequence is important, mostly top looper, bottom looper, then needles, this is so much easier demonstrated than explained.

If you can find a classroom/shop offering overlocking user lessons, go take a couple, its well worth the money. Otherwise go to you-tube and watch all the videos you can search on sergers, threading, etc.

Good luck with your serger, please respond with 4 thumbs if this has been helpful to you. :-)

How frustrating, I've tried to find a manual on this model so I can see how you make the change to the thread finger on the throad but couldn't see one. So, I'll go through the set up for 3 thread rolled hem on mine, it probably won't be identical but it might help.

First, remove thread from left needle and remove the left needle from the holder leaving just the right hand needle in place. Most sergers have two seperate needle screws so this can be done but as you mentioned, recheck again that the right needle is right up into the housing as high as it will go. I presume you are using a fresh smaller size needle, especially if this is on a fine or lightweight woven like organza, I'd put in a size 70. If a mid weight then size 80.

Now there should be a thread finger on the foot you change with your screwdriver. Or a little switch you flick so that the throat plate is a different shape to form the narrow seam. Your manual should have this step.

Now if you have some, put wooly overlock thread into your top looper, I cut the thread about 10 inches above the tension dial, put the new spool on, knot it to the existing thread tail, turn tension to zero and pull it through and through the looper eye.

At this point, you should have the two looper threads loose, lift the pressure foot and pull these two threads under the foot and out the back. Turn tension back to about 3 on top looper and tighten up lower looper to 5 or 6 and leave needle at 5.

Adjust blade to cut quite wide, ie wind it to the right side. Now thread the right needle and pull this thread out the back too. Lower the pressure foot, introduce a piece of fabric in under the foot, press the pedal and start trimming and chaining off.

You should have a chain stitch happening now - if not, recheck your threading, particularly the needle, sometimes the thread looks like its in the needle eye but is hooking around the looper. If you still can't get any joy, then it is possible that the timing is just slightly out and this is affecting this stitch. You could try setting up for a normal three thread seam and see if this chains okay.

If you are getting a chain happening now, then adjust down the stitch length to make it denser so it is covering the fabric and check the underside, adjusting top and bottom looper tensions so the thread is enclosing the fabric end rolling to the underside and covering any little fibres.

I hope this is of some help - however, if it still isn't giving you a chain, it could be the timing is out in which case, unfortunately service time.

Un-thread and then see if the machine will run without thread.

If not, it needs to go into the shop for repair.

If it does, refer to the manual. Or, the guide that should be printed on the inside of the serger's door.

Raise the thread antenna to it's highest position. Keep it at this position when serging. If lowered for storage, and threaded, be sure the thread does not tangle around the antenna arms.

Raise the presser foot.

Open/set the tensions to zero.

Raise the loopers to their highest level - there may be an indicator mark on the side of the serger to match with a mark on the handwheel to help with this.

Start threading from the right to the left; upper looper first.

After threading, reset the tensions to a medium number, lower the presser foot and stitch a chain to test the stitching.

Serge a scrap and adjust the tension as necessary.

Once you get the serger working as it should - don't run out of thread. Tie off, open the tension, raise presser foot and gently guide the new thread through the threading process.

When changing the thread or removing the thread to store the serger, cut the thread at the antenna, leaving thread tails for tying off the new thread.

If you do not have Nancy Zieman's "Serge with Confidence", you will find it much more informative than the average serger manual.

If threaded correctly and it will not serge, you have probably just found out why it was in the garage sale. Take it to a qualified repair shop, mmost give free estimates, probably much more than you paid for it.

3 thread overlocking (serging) is no different t 4 thread, except you remove one or other of the needle threads.

The stitch width is then controlled by two variables,

the manual width dial selector, and
your choice of either the right or left needle

Suggest yo play with width selector on a scrap of your project fabric to achieve the look you are after.