I have a ups system that i am feeding with 240 vac phase to phase and both phase to ground readings are 120 vac but when i go to battery power i get 240 vac phase to phase and 1 phase to ground i get 220 vac and the other i get 20 vac. is something wrong with my inverter?

A one phase 3 wire system has a center tap. Two hots and a neutral. Typical 120/240 volts.
A three phase 4 wire system has Three hots in a Y or Delta. The Y system has three hots and the neutral comes from the center of the Y, this is the neutral and grounded conductor, 120 volts from hot to ground and 208 volts hot to hot. In a 3 phase system the voltage is not doubled hot to hot as in a single phase system because the hots are 120 degrees phased from each other and the square root of 3 is the factor, multiply the 120 volts by 1.73 to get 208 volts hot to hot. Multiply 208 by the reciprocal of 1.73 and get 120 volts. Your exact application is not given so it is not known. A delta system is a triangle and the angle of each triangle is a hot wire, one angle would be grounded or the center tap of one of the sides of the triangle. Y is the configuration of the windings of the alternator or transformer and Delta is the configuration as a triangle of the windings of the alternator or transformer where the power supply is.

With a three phase home service, you can only connect two hots from your single phase generator, and the neutral. One of the house's hot does not get connected and any three phase loads in the house should be switched off and kept from energyzing or a circuit breaker or fuse serving that 3 phase load may trip.
Only one power supply can be connected at a time. The power company power must not be connected at all while using an alternate power supply unless your power supply has means to synchronize the alternating cycle.

It is adviced that the loads be kept within 10% of their rated voltage, especially motors.

Is this Dryer in the US? It sounds like it may be as you are refering to a Phase Voltage of 120 volts and a Line Voltage of 240 v.
therefore it sounds like your machine is 3 Phase and in the past you have been wired as 3 Phase and Neutral (4 Pin), it could be that your 3 pin socket at the new location is only 3 Phase ( no Neural ) in which case you may have applied twice the voltage to the control circuit which should be only 120 volts in your case, check on the PCB of the control circuit for any fuse which may have operated, otherwise there may be power supply issues due to applying over voltage in the absence of a Neutral :-(

My limited research indicates this heater is designed for USA electrical systems. That would mean single phase, 240/208 volts, 60 Hz. The drawings I reviewed shows a 2 pole, 240 volt breaker feeding each heating circuit. That means no "neutral wire" goes to the heater and therefore no 120 volts is needed. This is good. Kenya's system is single phase, 240 volts, 50 Hz. The heater should work reasonably well on the African system. Connect the power just like you would in the US.

240 VAC single phase 15 amp. Newer code requires a 4 terminal plug. Ground is now seperate from the neutral/return. 12 gauge wire should be acceptable for up to 8 feet, 10 would be better and better for a bit longer run- reduces voltage drop and current draw slightly.

On the motor itself, it should have the terminal connections marked on the motor or on the cover plate.

in general the "hot" pair connect across the hot terminals of the motor. and the ground goes to frame of motor. There should be a terminal location for "white" which would be "floating" if the motor is convertible 120/240.

Black +Black or Black +Red depending how the space was wired, it in most cases does not matter which of the two motor connections the hots are connected to on single phase unless explicity denoted on motor. this is rare. Three phase it matters for direction.

You have 220Volts (same as 240V), then that circuit does not need a neutral.
All household single phase voltage requires two wires to complete the circuit.
With 120V, you have 1 hot wire and 1 neutral wire.
With 240, you have 2 hot wires, and these hot wires are called 'out of phase' since each comes from separate side of breaker box.
Notice that your 220V 10-2 wire goes back to a double breaker. This double breaker snaps over two different busbars. The breaker pulls 2 out of phase 120Volt lines, and when testing voltage across those two out of phase 120V wires, you get 240V potential.
The ground wire is redundant safety in both 120 or 240 Volt circuits, and is not necessary for either 120 or 240 to operate.
http://waterheatertimer.org/240-v-water-heater-circuit.html#120-240

Hello,

I will accept the second option which is getting transformer.

Go ahead and get a transformer in order to step up the voltage. This is better than hooking up the 120V AC to the master inverter.

In summary, get a transformer to step up the voltage.

I hope this is clear now....

Good luck.

A ground to neutral short should not stop the machine and may be how the breaker panel was wired. Single phase 240 volt power just has two hot lines and the neutral just center taps the transformer winding supplying the 240 volts. The twin breakers that supply this voltage, should both trip even if only one line has a short on it. Check the resistance of L1 and L2 lines to neutral that feed the motor with the breakers off. Each should read nearly equal resistance which usually is only a few ohms when correct. Make sure the motor turns freely by hand as a locked compressor can certainly pop the breakers. If the compressor appears locked, remove the cylinder head(s) and try to turn again. If still locked, one of the connecting rods may have broken in the crankcase. The other problem could be a broken valve assembly in a head. If the motor has a capacitor start and/or run capacitor, it can cause a breaker trip because the motor cannot start with a defective capacitor. Hope some of this helps!

Check the 240 vac again, but measure each leg to neutral while attempting to start the appliance. Each "leg" should measure approx. 120 VAC< (half of the total voltage) and should not change when the unit is started.I think you will find that the two 120 VAC legs will read OK until start up. If the voltage value on one leg drops to 60 VAC or less and the other leg increases by the same amount, Then there is a problem with the neutral wire or the connection between the ground of your appliances and earth ground. This is very common, particularly manufactured homes. Most dryers, for example, use 240 VAC to run the heating element, but also use 120 VAC (one leg of the 240) to provide power to operate the control panel. So... every time a start is attempted, the line becomes unbalanced, the 120 VAC to the control panel suddenly drops, the control panel resets, removing the load, the 240 VAC line becomes balanced again and appears normal.

If the product is capible of such uses, there will be a small switch probably by the power cord. If not made to be used on 240V, don't.You will have a very bad situation result.

If your supplying 240 vac to a 208 vac element it will work but shorten the life of it.Goto 3wire.com and register,they should have a 208vac element.The wild leg could also be an issue but if you get a 208 vac element it shouldnt hurt it that much.Why you would be getting a reading of 240 vac on l1-l2-l1-l3-l2-l3 is strange.Let me know.