The plug that goes into the wall heats up to a pretty hot temperature, therefore i have to unplug it. I can only have it plugged in for about an hour. why is the cord heating up??

• Insufficient, erratic, or no heat

• Low engine coolant level.
• Engine overheating.
• Plugged or partially plugged heater core (18476).
• Temperature blend door binding/stuck.
• Temperature blend door actuator (19E616).
• Incorrect heater control valve (18495) operation.

• Go To Pinpoint Test I .

Are the heater hose's going through the fire wall hot ?
I2 CHECK FOR HOT WATER TO THE HEATER CORE INLET HOSE WARNING: The heater core inlet hose will become too hot to handle and may cause serious burns if the system is working correctly. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature. Feel the heater core inlet hose.

• Is the heater core inlet hose too hot to handle?

Yes GO to I4 .

No REFER to Section 303-03 to check cooling system function.

That is a very bad sign, but before you unplug it pull the machine out from the wall and check to see if it feels hot back there as well. Then remove the lower cover and find the condersor fan motor. Its the only fan back there. I'd willing to bet that the fan is not running. The purpose of the the fan is draw air across the compressor and blow it through the condensor therefore lowering the temperature on both parts. When its not working/ running, the heat from the compressor and the condensor is pass onward to the machine and the machine then acts as a heat sink.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

That is a very bad sign, but before you unplug it pull the machine out from the wall and check to see if it feels hot back there as well. Then remove the lower cover and find the condersor fan motor. Its the only fan back there. I'd willing to bet that the fan is not running. The purpose of the the fan is draw air across the compressor and blow it through the condensor therefore lowering the temperature on both parts. When its not working/ running, the heat from the compressor and the condensor is pass onward to the machine and the machine then acts as a heat sink.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

That is a very bad sign, but before you unplug it pull the machine out from the wall and check to see if it feels hot back there as well. Then remove the lower cover and find the condersor fan motor. Its the only fan back there. I'd willing to bet that the fan is not running. The purpose of the the fan is draw air across the compressor and blow it through the condensor therefore lowering the temperature on both parts. When its not working/ running, the heat from the compressor and the condensor is pass onward to the machine and the machine then acts as a heat sink.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

this is not a fuse problem as the blower motor is working.it sounds more like a temperature door problem not moving from the cold position to hot position.the other thing it could be a plugged heater core not allowing hot coolant to flow through the heater core.under the hood at the fire wall there are two hoses that connect to the heater core.with the motor hot put your hands on the hoses they should be the same temperature.if not the heater core is plugged and needs replacing.you can try disconnecting the hoses after you have clamped them off and connect a separate hoses to the fittings sticking out the fire wall and pour some clr into the hose and let it sit to try and unclog the core.if it unplugs you might see it in the other hose.drain and repeat.then flush the heater core with a garden hose until it is running out clear then re-connect the heater hoses run car and top up coolant level,this may work so you son`t have to replace the heater core.

Typically this issue is the receptical. It MUST be tight and hard to push the plug in, or resistance goes up and burn damage or fire can happen. What happens is the wall plug gets some resistance, and heats up, then the spring tension goes away, resistance goes up, and eveything gets worse.


Be aware that most kitchen plugs (single outlet) are TWO circuits, the top plug being one and the bottom plug being another (same plug). So, there will be a 220 style bridged two breaker switch in your fuse panel. There is one tab that needs to be broken on the hot side of the outlet.

Check other plugs in your home, no need to have a fire.

Appears to be that the power is not getting to the temperature controllers. Suspect a problem in the wiring between the wall outlet (if not the wall outlet) to the temperature controllers. Look for broken plug at end of cord or a break in the cord between the plug and the controller. Last, you may have to look at the connections inside the temperature controller the power cord goes to in order to see if there is something loose inside. But do this with the blanket unplugged.

Are you referring to the water valve assembly? If so, you can purchase a new assembly. Check with a parts distributor. You will need the brand and model number.

Unplug the washer. Turn off the water supply (hot and cold) to the washer and disconnect the hoses at the washer (there is no need to disconnect the hoses at the wall). Make certain that you replace the hoses correctly on the new water valve with corresponding hot and cold hoses coming from the wall. Disconnect the wire harnesses to each temperature (hot and cold) on the water valve. The harnesses should be color-coded. Replace them correctly on the new valve. Turn the water supply back on and plug in the washer. Run a small water level while testing different temperatures (hot, cold and warm). Check for water leaks and proper temperature.

I would advise not to use the grill or the plug it plugs into before determining what the problem is. It could be the grill cord, or the wall plug.

If you have been in the habit of pulling the cord plug out of the wall by tugging on the cord, then chances are the problem is broken conductors inside of the wire insulation. One way to test this is to attempt plugging the unit into a totally different wall outlet. If the cord and outlet heat up again, chances are the cord needs to be replaced (if possible). If the both do not heat up, then the outlet wiring connections inside of the wall need to be checked.

Bad wiring connections either in the wall, or in the cord, will generate heat, when will then conduct to the other connector. So it is difficult to use heat as the indicator of which connector is bad.

Wires are rated to handle a certain amount of amps. Your dryer cord is bigger than your coffee maker cord because your dryer pulls more amps. What is going on with your heater is your heater is drawing more amps than the wire can handle. Therefore the wire is getting hot, melting the insulation. Hopefully it shorts out before it catches on fire!!! BOTH BAD SCENERIOS!!! It is possible your machine is just excessively dirty, therefore working extremely hard, drawing high amps. If you are able to give a good cleaning, do so. Let dry and turn heater on DURING A TIME WHEN YOU CAN MONITOR IT, NOT OVERNIGHT. See if it has made a significant improvement. If not, it's time for a new heater!! Best Wishes!!

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79