Broken snowshoe The metal base plate that has the teeth and the binding riveted to it broke. The metal broke not the pins. It is the left snowshoe. I am not having any luck finding a replacement. Cascade Designs wants me to mail the shoe to them. It will cost $12 to ship it each way plus repair cost. Seems excessive but they won't sell me the part alone.

No Reverse

Checks

Cause

Case (7)

The rear band anchor pin is broken or the pin is not positioned.

Center Support (640)

Leaking at the case, or the support is broken.

Center Support Seal (639)

Leaking

Center Support Bolt (25)
?€¢
The bolt is loose or broken.
?€¢
The feed hole is blocked.

Rear Band (657)

Broken, worn, or not anchored

Rear Band Apply Pin (73)

The pin is too short or the pin is binding in the case.

Piston (65)

Binding in the case

Seal (66)

Leaking, damaged, or worn

Gasket (63)

Damaged or displaced

Cover (62)

Damaged

Bolts (61)

Broken, loose, or missing

Checkball

Missing

Fluid Pressure

Too low

Direct Clutch Components

Reaction Plates (618)

The splines are worn.

Friction Plates (611)

The splines or the friction are worn.

Spring Assembly (607)

Jammed

Housing (623)

Cracked

Piston (619)

Leaking

Seal (620, 621, 622)

Leaking

Ball Check

Leaking

Probably best if you take it for repair. Sounds like several things are amiss with your machine that require a knowledgeable technician to get the timing correct and secure the loose mechanism.

In the future, avoid sewing over pins. As you already know, it can be very detrimental to your machine but also dangerous if the broken needle happens to fly into your eye. If you need to pin, it helps to place the pins parallel to the fabric edge approximately one inch or more to the left of the seam's location. That will keep the pins far away from the presser foot.

...

2004 doesn't have a modulator valve . An if it did it would affect all gear operation , Shift hard , but would still go into gear. You have an internal transmission problem !
No Reverse, Slips in Reverse
Checks
Causes
Reverse Clutch
No apply or slipping
Piston and Seal Assembly (457)
Binding, cracked, or leaking
Inner Seal (456)
Plugged orifice
Clutch Plates (460-463)
Worn friction or broken splines
Snap Ring (459, 464)
Out of position
Housing (454)
Cracked, plugged feed holes, or broken tangs
Housing Retainer and Ball Assembly
Missing or out of position
Springs (458)
Binding
Reverse Clutch Fluid Routing
Fluid leak or restriction
Driven Sprocket Support (95)
?€¢
Leaking seal rings

?€¢
Porosity, damage, misalignment

Channel Plate and Gasket, and Valve Body, Gaskets, and Channel Plate
Porosity, fluid leak across the channels, misalignment, damage, or fluid restriction
Low and Reverse Band and Servo
No apply or slipping
Servo Piston (69)
Broken or binding
Servo Piston Seals (71, 72)
Leaking
Servo Pin (67) and Springs (66, 68)
Binding
Servo Cover (73)
Broken, loose, or leaking
Low and Reverse Band (111)
Broken, worn, or out of position
Anchor Pin (64)
Broken
Fluid Feed Tubes (83)
?€¢
Broken, bent, or plugged

?€¢
Missing or leaking seal rings

Transmission Case (1)
Porosity, fluid leak, or restriction
Shift Linkage
Disconnected or misaligned
Manual Valve (800) and Link (802)
Disconnected or misaligned
#1 Checkball
Missing, no low band fluid
Fluid Level
Low
Fluid Pressure
Low
Refer to High or Low Line Pressure .
suggest you take to an ASE certified transmission repair facility !

There are several thing's that can cause a no reverse !
No Reverse, Slips in Reverse
Checks
Causes
Reverse Clutch
No apply or slipping
Piston and Seal Assembly (457)
Binding, cracked, or leaking
Inner Seal (456)
Plugged orifice
Clutch Plates (460-463)
Worn friction or broken splines
Snap Ring (459, 464)
Out of position
Housing (454)
Cracked, plugged feed holes, or broken tangs
Housing Retainer and Ball Assembly
Missing or out of position
Springs (458)
Binding
Reverse Clutch Fluid Routing
Fluid leak or restriction
Driven Sprocket Support (95)
?€¢
Leaking seal rings

?€¢
Porosity, damage, misalignment

Channel Plate and Gasket, and Valve Body, Gaskets, and Channel Plate
Porosity, fluid leak across the channels, misalignment, damage, or fluid restriction
Low and Reverse Band and Servo
No apply or slipping
Servo Piston (69)
Broken or binding
Servo Piston Seals (71, 72)
Leaking
Servo Pin (67) and Springs (66, 68)
Binding
Servo Cover (73)
Broken, loose, or leaking
Low and Reverse Band (111)
Broken, worn, or out of position
Anchor Pin (64)
Broken
Fluid Feed Tubes (83)
?€¢
Broken, bent, or plugged

?€¢
Missing or leaking seal rings

Transmission Case (1)
Porosity, fluid leak, or restriction
Shift Linkage
Disconnected or misaligned
Manual Valve (800) and Link (802)
Disconnected or misaligned
#1 Checkball
Missing, no low band fluid
Fluid Level
Low
Fluid Pressure
Low
Refer to High or Low Line Pressure .
Most likely your trans needs to be rebuilt !
to

Maybe. Unplug the toaster and remove the bottom plate as you would for cleaning. look for the wires connected to the middle elements and see if one has become disconnected or broken. If one or more of the connections to the middle element is a quick disconnect type (click link for a picture),
https://s16-us2.ixquick.com/cgi-bin/serveimage?url=http%3A%2F%2Fts4.mm.bing.net%2Fth%3Fid%3DJN.EnzjOARZwnQZZjF7oGU2Dw%26pid%3D15.1%26f%3D1&sp=5dc5e8fde9f2f3462b6483c20bb42f01 then inspect it for overheating, oxidation or corrosion. You may be able to clean it up with a Scotch-brite metal polishing pad.

On my toaster, the connections to the heater elements are metal strips riveted to tabs from the element assemblies. One strip is riveted to the power neutral; the other has a quick disconnect tab for a wire from the thermostat. A loose or broken rivet could be the problem, but do not use an aluminum pop rivet to repair it. It can't take the heat, even if you could find one small enough.

I've seen toaster heater elements evaporate over the years - they get a hot spot, which burns off metal, making it thinner and hotter until finally there's nothing left there. At that point the element is gone. I suppose if you could find nichrome ribbon wire of the same width and thickness as the original, you could rebuild the heating element plate, but it would be a delicate task because the mica insulating material is fragile. It's probably more practical to scavenge a working heater assembly from another toaster of similar design, if the electrical connections are serviceable with the tools you have.

Unless this is a very fancy unit, it's probably cheaper and easier to scrap it out and replace the whole thing.

Try ebay and cross fingers.

Fig. Fig. 1: Clutch release bearing - 1990 Colt hatchback and sedan w/ 1.6L engine, 1990 Colt Wagon w/1.8L engine, and 1990-93 Vista

Fig. Fig. 2: Clutch driven and drive discs - 1990-93 all models

Fig. Fig. 3: Clutch release bearing - 1990 Colt Wagon w/1.5L engine, 1991-92 Colt hatchback and sedan w/4-speed and 1993 Colt hatchback and sedan w/1.8L engine

1. Remove the transmission or transaxle as outlined.
2. Insert a pilot shaft or an old input shaft into the center of the clutch disc, pressure plate, and the pilot bearing in the crankshaft.
3. With the pilot tool supporting the clutch disc, loosen the pressure plate bolts gradually and in a crisscross pattern.
4. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc.
5. Clean the transmission and clutch housing. Clean the flywheel surface with a non-oil based solvent. Wash your hands before installing or handling the clutch assembly parts. Hold the clutch disc by the center hub only.

Before assembly, slide the clutch disc up and down on the transmission input shaft to check for any binding. Remove any rough spots with crocus cloth and then lightly coat the shaft with Lubriplate.

1. To remove the throwout bearing assembly: Remove the return clip and take out the throwout bearing carrier and the bearing.
2. To replace the throwout arm use a / 16 in. punch, knock out the throwout shaft spring pin and remove the shaft, springs, and the center lever.
3. Do not immerse the throwout bearing in solvent; it is permanently lubricated. Blow and wipe it clean. Check the bearing for wear, deterioration, or burning. Replace the bearing if there is any question about its condition.
4. Check the shafts, lever, and springs for wear and defects. Replace them if necessary.
5. If you hadn't planned on replacing the clutch disc, examine it for the following before reusing it. Loose rivets. Burned facing. Oil or grease on the facing. Less than 0.3mm left between the rivet head and the top of the facing.
6. Check the pressure plate and replace it if any of the following conditions exist: Scored or excessively worn. Bent or distorted diaphragm spring. Loose rivets.
7. Insert the control lever into the clutch housing. Install the two return springs and the throwout shaft.
8. Lock the shift lever to the shaft with the spring pin.
9. Fill the shaft oil seal with multipurpose grease.
10. Install the throwout bearing carrier and the bearing. Install the return clip.
11. Grease the carrier groove and inner surface.
12. Lightly grease the clutch disc splines.

The clutch is installed with the larger boss facing the transmission.

1. Support the clutch disc and pressure plate with the pilot tool.
2. Turn the pressure plate so that its balance mark aligns with the notch in the flywheel.
3. Install the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts head-tight. Using a torque wrench and, working in a crisscross pattern, tighten the bolts to 11-15 ft. lbs.
4. Install the transmission or transaxle as outlined.
5. Adjust the clutch as described in the following information.

go www.dell.com give your service tag, model and download your instr. manula and service manual , parts and fix it.

God bless you

Hi Jonathan, based on the date of your Q, you may have already moved on. For what it's worth... I have the Atlantis 1600, structure is identical, cubic feet size is different. When you state "put Thule hinge back on" I am presuming you're referring to the entire upper segment of the carrier as the hinges are only pins riveted to the upper carcass. These pins seat in the lower carcass latches (also riveted) when the lid is closed. If the lower latches are obstructing the pins from seating, it means the latches are locked -- simply insert your key and unlock them. The pins (hinges) will function normally again.

If you're referring to actually attaching the pins to the upper carcass, then I would use a 3/16" medium length rivet ensuring that you use a washer on the inside (where the rivet expands) to add the binding power that the carcass body will not.

Yes, it is behind this plate in the timing cavity. Drill the rivet heads off so you can get the round plate off. Drill just deep enough to drill the head of the rivet off using a large drill bit. Once you get that and the other plate off, mark the original sensor plate and the inside of the timer cavity in such a manner that you can take the old sensor plate out and install the new plate in exactly the same spot. You must do this correctly or you'll have to reset the ignition timing. I usually use the very end of the slot on the plate or something like that for a reference point on the plate. Mark the inside of the timer cavity on edge. You'll also have to unpin the plug or cut the wires of the old sensor. Take the old pins out of the plug making a drawing of how the wires go into the plug, what color wire goes where. Put the wires through the hole and put the new plate in and secure the holding bolts. Repin the plug. If you put the original plate back on, you'll need new rivets. DO NOT USE STANDARD RIVETS. You must use Harley-Davidson rivets. Standard rivets will allow the broken off end to get into the timer cavity and damage the "cup" behind the plate and maybe the end of the camshaft.


Good Luck
Steve
Good Luck
Steve