If you don't have the owner's manual you can download it here:
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Use%20and%20Care%20Guide%20-%204452300.pdf
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Use%20and%20Care%20Guide%20(Micro)%20-%204452614.pdf
Some units will not allow time programming if the door is open - or if the microwave thinks it is due to a bad door switch or door switch mount, etc.
Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside. Its continuity must be checked.
Switch or mount trouble can be caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
> program the computer (via the keypad panel) to enable the magnetron
There is a "control lock" function mentioned in the manual if the lock symbol is in the display. You hold the 3 / CONTROL LOCK key for 5 seconds to lock or unlock it.
Other than that, you should be able to cook by even just pressing the EasyMinute / Start key with the door closed.
Sorry that manual link didn;t show up right. Try here.
Here's my stock answer for "no heat" conditions:
Generally, the most common causes of a failure to heat are:
- bad door switches or door switch mounts
- loose connection at the magnetron
- problem or loose connection on the control unit circuit board
- bad magnetron or other high voltage part (such as a shorted diode)
If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here:http://tinyurl.com/gv383
Here are some good links for part testing:
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.h...
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/mag_tes...
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/xformer...
You must read & heed the safety warnings. Microwaves utilize and produce deadly voltages!
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
×
252 views
Usually answered in minutes!
Dear Microwave service, Thank you for your generous help. I've just taken the microwave section out of the oven/microwave combo housing to recheck the interlock switches.
Re: my comment on PROGRAMMING: I was led to believe that you had to program the computer (via the keypad panel) to enable the magnetron. THAT'S what I was referring to. Am I wrong? Should I just be able to connect the new computer and it should work? I think I mentioned that EVERY function on the oven and microwave works - except the microwave doesn't cook.
Also is there a way to tell whether the magnetron is bad? Do they just die or like US, do they just get weaker and weaker! ; )
Triple checked door switches : ALL O.K. Diode high resistance one way, infinity the other, Magnetron Filament good -i.e. very low resistance (service lit stored in oven says THAT'S the way it should be) Fuses all O.K. ASll else that's left is the Magnetron OR some necessary programming that may be peculiar to Kitchenaid. Any last thoughts?
Dear MicrowaveSrv and everyone. FIRST OF ALL.... thank you for your generosity in trying to help. Curiously the problem I was having was caused by by 2 IDENTICAL 4 pin plugs - with identical keyways - that I interchanged when re-assembling the unit. Since they LOOK identical it was an easy mistake. It is curious that Kitchenaid would do this. As I was checking and rechecking (with an ohmmeter) I discovered a number of "illogical" conditions which could ONLY be caused by wiring mistakes. Since I did **t alter any of the connections, this made ** sense. I **ticed that the color coding of the wires going to these identical plugs was arranged differently. (The color coding was in the diagram inside the microwave.) Putting the plugs back correctly solved the problem. (Replacement of the keppad and computer was still necessary, though I'm lucky the mixing these plugs didn't blow anything up! Thanks again. So I didn't need any codes afterall. Halellujah!
×