Triple rocker switch to control 3 function bathroom fan/light

Is there a switch to recirculate,or fresh air ??

1) Copy following link to see wiring diagrams:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#triple

2) There are two basic wiring type, depending if power wire and neutral arrive in switch box first, or power wire and neutral arrive in ceiling box.

3) Most homes, the power wire is in ceiling box.
In this case, a minimum of 4 wires are needed between ceiling box and switch.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

11-1-12
Thanks for link to manual.
Solution might take more response for full clarity, and you seem a good electrician.
I have numbered two questions that may be unimportant.
Add a comment, response after 5 pm CST

Here is illustration showing Black Hot and White Neutral in attic junction box, as you described. With black-red-blue wires connected as shown in Broan manual. And each device connected to White neutral wire in junction box.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Triple-fan-light-night-light.jpg

You have access to attic, and can drop another cable down wall into switch box. This will give necessary total 4 wires between switch and Broan
http://waterheatertimer.org/OWB1.html

Key start point: Junction box in attic has the Black Hot wire and White neutral coming from circuit breaker box.
This cable powers the junction box.

There are 3 cables in junction box, each cable with black and white.
Cable from breaker box with Hot and Neutral. Cable going to light switch.
Another cable jumps power to next box in the circuit, and will be reconnected when finished, black-to-black white-to-white

Old light switch in wall was single pole.
1) How many cables are inside switch box? Just one cable from attic with black and white wire?
2) 3-way switch is the wrong switch, unless you mean 3-pole triple switch with 3 screw terminals on one side of device?

Here is another link that shows wiring choices if you decide to use 3 separate switches (or timers or occupancy sensor to turn on night light) instead of triple switch: Install triple box.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#4-f

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Ledio, I am unable to access specific photos on Picassa
https://plus.google.com/106982528064073343888/posts

I have downloaded instruction manual for 1755 rocker switch
This is ordinary triple-rocker-switch to control 3 different loads.
It is like having 3 single pole switches and each switch controls a separate light (Load)
This is single pole switch for 120Volt, and not suited necessarily for 240Volt loads.
Switch is not for 3-way application as typically found in hallway where 2 switches control same light.

1) You have 4 wires.
Electricians don't guess, they test.
There are 4 types of wires in 120Volt and 240V household wiring: Hot wire, Neutral wire, Load wire, and ground wire.
Load wire means the wire that connects to switch and goes to Light, fan, motor (load)
Hot wire always connects to one side of switch.
Neutral never connects to switch.
Load wires connect to side of switch opposite Hot wire.
Bare copper ground wire connects to any green ground screw.

2) One-and-only-one wire in each 120Volt electrical box is Hot. (assuming you are not replacing
3-way switch or working with 240V)

3) Separate all 4 wires for testing. Tape tester leads to wood sticks. Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire. Tester will light up on Hot wire.

4) Hot is identified. Next, find the neutral wire if it is among the 4 wires.
Test Hot wire to all other wires in box, except bare ground wire.
Tester will light up on neutral wire.
Tester will not light up on Load wires.

5) NOT EVERY switch box has a neutral. Or the neutral wires can be twisted together and covered with wire nut and pushed to back of box.
The neutral may be up in the light fixture. Neutral located in ceiling box is typical with bathroom fan-light-heater combos.
If neutral is not one of the 4 wires, then don't worry about the neutral connection because it will already be wired together.

6) Image of 1755 switch shows 1 screw terminal on the Hot side, so connect Hot wire to this single screw.
Other side of switch has 3 screws for connecting each of 3 Load wires.
Note: Neutral wire is NEVER connected to a switch.
http://www.frostelectric.com/WOE-IMAGES/00381764.jpg

7) Since I cannot see wiring project or know what loads or how the testing comes out, I suggest connect the Hot wire to single screw terminal.
And then connect 1 of the other wires to other side of switch. Not a neutral.
Turn power ON, and try switch.
Process of elimination might yield result.

8) Add a comment with more question, and it sends e-mail. I will respond.
More resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Cooper-277-pilot-light-switch.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/How-to-wire-double-rocker-s.jpg

Hello sandman, STOP!! Dont do anything else until you kill the bathroom breaker in the breaker box
located by your elect meter. Got it off? Now get a shop light, flashlight, even a lamp w/ext cord.
Position the light so you can see the wires coming out of the wall for switch. The black wires are
the hot ones & the white ones are the return(no power) You have wired your new switch incorrectly
causing the breaker to trip. Check how you have wired the new switch. You neeed one black & one
white wire for each function of the switch. If there is a green wire, it,s for grounding the switch.
Some newer switches have install info stamped on the switch. Kinda hard to see sometme.
Let me know. Happy wiring.......................dansky66

you will need to determine what amps the timer switch is rated for, and what are the rated amps for the light/fan/heater. More then likely you will need to buy a new timer switch which is rated for the correct amps. Hope this helps Tim

Leviton triple switch
Nutone P66V

Nutone looks like an ordinary three-switch combo being marketed as a bathroom 'fan switch.'
The screws on the device would tell the story.

Look at the Leviton screws:
The switch has dark-colored screw on one side >> the hot from breaker always connects to dark screws.
Other side of switch has 3 silver-colored screws, but these can be brass colored screws > the wires to fan light and heater connect to each of these screws.

Most likely the Nutone switch is identical to the Leviton
I say this because the descriptor on Amazon describes it as a 'fan' switch.
It's being marketed as a bathroom fan-light combo switch >>> so it looks like an ordinary three-combo switch

Ok you only have two switches, so you would use one switch for your bathroom light, and the other for both the fan and the light, the light will come on when you turn the fan on.Connect the incoming black (hot) wire to both switches. Then connect the black wire to the switch you want for your light. Connect the other black to the second switch that goes to your fan and light. Connect the three white wires together (neutral) Connect all ground wires together, and leave a pigtail to connect to the ground terminal on the light switch. If you want separate switches for light in the fan and fan, you will need another conductor and a three gang switch.

It's asking for a ground wire. Run a small wire from the green wire on the fan and ground it to the electrical box.

If you are not very handy I don't think I'd tackle this project. There's going to be drywall cutting, backing to install, attic crawling, wiring, ducting to attach, proper insulating. As an electrician I've done this sort of thing in between 1 and 2 hours, depending on how smooth things go. If you find somebody you trust that's done it before who is willing do to it on the side for cash you're looking at $25-$60 for labor. Is it worth it to you?