WIRING DIAGRAM FOR CONTROL INFINITE SWITCH PART NUMBER WB24T10029

Try this manual. It may help.
Service Manual - W11174422 - Whirlpool Smart Wall Ovens

PartSelect Number PS1016429

http://www.partselect.com/PS1016429-GE-WB24T10119-Infinite-Control-Switch.htm?SourceCode=5&SearchTerm=jp930&ModelNum=jp930

could be element so included its part number incase needed
http://www.partselect.com/PS243902-GE-WB30T10044-Dual-Haliant-Element-with-Limiter-9-2500W.htm?SourceCode=5&SearchTerm=jp930&ModelNum=jp930

Hello Sheryl;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.

If your unit is new it should still be under warrantee for one year.

Who replaced the control board was it a service company? You should have a 90 day warrantee on the work, which did not work.

Anyway, you may have a bad; "Infinite Switch".
An infinite switch allows the user to set the heat from low to high and everywhere in between, hence the name "Infinite." This switch differs from a "Low-Medium-High" switch, which provides only three heat settings. The infinite switch uses a bimetal switch and physically moves through the process of heating and cooling, causing the main switch contacts to open and close and controlling the power applied to the heating elements.Typically, when an infinite switch malfunctions, the surface element will not heat, or it will remain on high in every position.

1. Before repairs or testing can begin, you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!.
2. Next, depending on your appliance type/model, access the infinite switch using one of the following methods:
1. For most standard models, remove the back panel.
2. On models with front-mounted controls, the panel is attached with screws on both ends. Remove the screws and tilt the control panel, being careful not to let the wires disengage from the components.
3. For models with a removable backsplash, simply lift the backsplash, rest it on the cooktop and remove the screws to access the components.
4. If you are working on an eye-level range or wall oven, remove the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be located under the front of the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, tilt the control panel towards you.
5. Some models will require that you remove the rear panel and front panel before work can begin.
6. If the front control panel is glass, remove the screws securing the trim that holds the glass in place.

Test for continuity between the switch contacts:

1. Remove all wires from the switch terminals. (Remember to label them!)
2. Set the infinite switch on high and place your ohmmeter on the L2, H2, P and H1 terminals to check for continuity.
1. If there is no continuity between L1 and H1 or between L2 and H2, the infinite switch is defective.
2. If there is no continuity between P and H1, the indicator light circuit is defective.
3. Remove the infinite switch by removing the screws or nuts that hold it in place and install a new infinite switch by following the disassembly instructions in reverse order. Be sure to follow the wiring diagram and install the wires to the correct terminals.

REMEMBER YOU ARE

see this steps and fix it. God bless you

. Top element
If the element only works partially or not getting red hot at the "Hi" setting, the problem might be with a burned out receptacle that the element plugs into. If this is the case, replace both the element and the receptacle.

You can usually tell when the element itself burns out. It might have small holes or bubbles on the coil. Replace the element, if found defective.

2. Infinite switch
Another reason, why the element would not start, might be a defective infinite switch (located behind the control panel, with the burner knob on its shaft). Replace the switch if found defective.
Read more: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/rangeoven-repair-help.html#2-2#ixzz2aSmUeYiW
http://www.appliancepartspros.com

Hi there.
You can check the heater using an ohm meter. Connect the test leads across the heater terminal, you should get a reading if the heater is good, if it is bad, zero (0) or infinite reading will appear on you tester.
For a switch, put one test lead on one terminal and the other test lead on opposite terminal. When switch is "OFF" you should read zero (0) resistance, when the switch is "ON", you should read infinite resistance.
There may be a shorted wiring that tripped your fuse box.
For wiring diagram and other troubleshooting reference, you can download Owner's Manual at http://www.grindmaster.com
Regards.

Check power to element with a voltmeter. If there is power, the element is bad. If not power, than switch or relay is likely faulty. You can also test them with an ohmmeter

First, have you removed the wires from the old switch?

If not, then look on the switch, old or new, and see if there are numbers on the terminals. If so, just move the wires one at a time, terminal number to terminal number.

If you have removed the wires, then you will need to find the wiring diagram, which is most likely found somewhere inside the unit or on the back panel. You should be able to identify the correct wire connection from the wiring diagram.

If you can reply the full model number, I might can find a wiring diagram for it and give you more direction.

I would first check the infinite control switch (#WB24T10029) the part the knob slips onto. The next thing I'd check is the erc (#WB27T10231) control board. Hope that is helpful!

a to black one
b to red one
d to orange
e to grey
a-e to red two
a-d to black two
a-c to orange two
a-b to grey two
a-a to white