I have a trane furnace that is between 10-20 years old (trane xl-80). there seems to be a white-rodgers control panel inside. the problem is that the blower/fan doesn't always stop once the heating/burner stops and so the furnace continues to blow cold air.
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Does the display seem a little dim? If so replace the batteries. Anything else may be a furnace issue not the thermostat. Look at the furnace and see if you can view any error codes on the circuit board
Sounds like your ignitor is bad, not lighting the gas. If this happens 3x, then controler goes into lockout and induced draft motor continues to run to extract the gas fumes as a safety. Either replace the HSI (Hot Surface Ignitor) or sand down the end of the electronic spark ignitor and it's ground rod (they work like an exposed spark plug) to remove the carbon buildup on it so it can spark again. All with the power off, of course! If you need more help, please ask, I'm glad to help! 25 year HVAC service Tech- residential & commercial systems.
hello Miss/Mrs/Mr, I have the furnace trane xl 80, when I turned for heat everything working but only blower motor was not running, I wait for 1 minute all system suck down? I guess the capacitor blow out, that the reason why blower motor was not running
When it does it again, look at the control board for a flashing light. If there is one, it will indicate an error code. On the wiring diagram there should be a diagnostic chart that will help pinpoint where the error is occurring. Usually it is a dirty air filter that causes an overheat code. Check it out!
If this is a direct vent unit, check the PVC air intake at the furnace for debris. There is a screen at the furnace connection and as cold air enters into the burner chamber it frosts up on it. If there is any blockage, it restricts the air inlet. If the furnace ignites, it melts the frost and works fine. It happens mostly at night. Let me know if you find this. Thanks.
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Thermostat wire color codes
explained. Please note. Not all installers use the proper color codes when they
install or replace equipment. It may be necessary go go to the furnace or
outdoor unit to verify what wires are for what purpose. Also be sure there are
no splices in the wire that could change the wire colors between components.
R (red)
or Rh (Red heat) 24 volts from equipment.
Rc (Red
cooling) 24 volts from transformer in cooling equipment.
Note: If only furnace has a
transformer and cooling equipment does not jumper Rc and Rh.
W (White)
sends 24 volts to furnace control to start the heating cycle.
W2 (no standardized wire
color, usually whatever wire color is available) controls second stage
heat.
Note: W2 is most often used
for heat pumps to control what is called emegency heat or Auxillary heat, and
most often will use the white wire.
Y (yellow)
often (blue) is used, controls cooling
unit (outdoor condensing unit) also is used for heat pump heat.
Y2 (no standardized wire
color, usually whatever wire color is available) controls second stage
cooling.
G (Green)
controls the fan "on" operation of the furnace/air handler. Also
often is used to start the blower for many electric furnaces.
C (common)
most often brown but can also be black or other color available to
installer.
O (orange)
Energizes heat pump reversing valve for cooling (Trane and most other
brands).
B (Blue)
Energizes heat pump reversing valve for heating (Rheem, Ruud and
Weatherking).
99.99% of the modern residential units use only one transformer to power the 24 volts for both the furnace and the a/c unit. It will be located in the furnace. The outdoor unit will not have its own transformer unless its reeallllly old. Place a small jumper wire between w1 & w2 terminals on the thermostat. (The lux brand is not the professionals choice) (if you have problems replace with a honeywell or white rodgers brand).
Good luck.....
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