Hooked up a dimmer switch that is controlled by two locations, and it is not working

the key position has nothing to do with the lights staying on.
That function is controlled by the headlight switch.
Make sure the wires going to it are in the correct location.
Sounds to me like you have 2 wires crossed. (dimmer working backwards)

Your question has two switches and 1 dimmer.
The fan switch works.
The light switch works.
The dimmer does not. What is the dimmer connected to?
Dimmers typically will not control fan speed unless they are rated to do that.
Do you have a 3-way switching where two switches control same light, and you installed the dimmer in place of 3-way switch?

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6633-pl is single-pole and 3-way dimmer made for max 600 watt incandescent or halogen load. This dimmer does not work for CFL or inductive loads such as motor.

I have no idea what a 'locator light' is?? Do you mean the LED indicator that shows when power is connected?

Troubleshoot section of manual does not show any solution for LED malfunction.
Contact Leviton for email tech support:
http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/SectionDisplay.jsp?section=37619&minisite=10251

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Older dimmer switches use rheostats to adjust the resistant loads on the switch. Since this is a mechanical operation, over time they become loose or corroded. So it sounds like this has happened to your dimmer switch and you should replace it with a more modern switch that isn't as mechanical.

Hello. There could be a couple of possibilities. First is the simplest to verify, is it a Companion Dimmer, Standard Dimmer switches or a 600W or 1000W Maestro Wireless Multi-location Dimmer. The Maestro Companion Dimmers can not be used individually, as they do not control a load, and must be used along with a Maestro or Maestro Wireless Multi-location Dimmer. The Campanion Dimmers are also a line/low voltage rating, and rated for incandescent and halogen but may not handle some flourescent fixtures. The other thing I can think of is that you may have interfearence from another item. They are radio frequency (RF) devices that communicate together for wireless control of lights. Here's two links that may be of some help, the second has downloadable install instructions.

http://www.smarthome.com/6601LA/Lutron-MA-R-LA-Maestro-Companion-Dimmer-Switch-Light-Almond/p.aspx

http://www.prolighting.com/lumamaprsmre.html

Hope this helps out, don't forget to rate this answer.

Thank You,
Richard

Rotary dimmers have 2 black wires, and the color-code tells electrician that both blacks are interchangeable.
This means that dimmer is for single pole only. That dimmer will not work for 3-way switching where more than 1 'switch' controls same Load (light fan motor)
Connect either black dimmer wire to the red, and connect other black dimmer wire to the black.

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You're correct. The dimmer switch was not made for that fan.

The Green is ground > so you're right there too. I assume other plugs nearby are working when dimmer is on. Check that to make sure.

By your description, I assume there is NOT another switch or dimmer that connects to same light. If so, you need a 3-way switch and the following instructions are void.

I suspect when you wired the new fan, that you saw the red and small black wires in the ceiling box. Did you connect the fan and light to those wires? If so, the following information will help you wire the switch.

Your incoming Hot line is probably the larger black wire that connects to Dimmer black >>> this wire will connect to either screw on the new switch

To test Hot wire for sure: Take out dimmer and mark wires for identification. Separate wires. Turn on power and test each wire to bare ground. Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands are away from power. You'll be fine. Tester lights up on Hot wire.

Next: The smaller black and a red wires are a toss up.

Here's how I would proceed. Connect the black Hot to either screw on switch. Connect red wire to other screw. Put wire nut over small black. Turn on power. Flip switch. Check both lights and fan to see which works with red wire.

Next reverse the toss up wires. Put wire nut over red. Connect small black to switch. Check both lights and fan.

If red and small black control the light & fan, then connect them together on the same screw, and you're done.

If you want to control the fan and light separately, buy double switch, and then Hot connects to dark-colored screw on one side of switch, and red and small black connect to two different screws on opposite side of switch.

I'm assuming you've connected the line (hot) on the black and the load (out to fixture) to the red? So does the light stay on or your tester is measuring voltage. Some electronic controls will test voltage on a tester. if there is no load connected

The dimmer normally controls a light which is 100 watts or so. The dimmer is rated for only so much load.It is only a fire hazard if the dimmer is overloaded by a fan and light that draws alot of current. Some fans have a light and 2 pull chains,one for fan speed and another for the light itself.There is usually only one power source for the fan.If it is a split design,then the light can be run off the dimmer,and the fan off of the switch. If you want to vary the fan speed with the dimmer ,make sure it is rated for at least the load rating.

It depends if the fan and lights are ran for separate control. If only one power line is ran from the fan to the switch location than you are out of luck. You should install a switch instead of a dimmer because a fan is not designed to work with a dimmer. A dimmer works by rapidly turning the power on and off faster than our eyes can detect creating a dimming effect for lights. This is not good for your fan. The strength of the fan speed will be limited by the dimming/power output of the light dimmer.