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Are there any colors on the resistor or it is missing. If you know what the voltage and current should be in the circuit you can calculate the resistor value.
is it a K45 or a K45SS? If it is a K45 you will have to replace the filters inside and probably the speed control plate, if it is a K45SS then you need a new phase control board. The K45 is pre 1978 and the K45SS is post 1978. Your information is correct on pre 1978 K45 models that the capacitor is bad, but it might be cheaper to go garage sale hunting and find a second machine as the parts are no longer made and having spares on hand may be a significant advantage in the future, also there are a great many of the K45SS parts that will also repair the K45 mixer so it may not be a practical solution. Watch ebay regularly for K45 parts, they come up every couple of months. On the parts diagram also look for the K5 diagram as it is identical to the K45, one is a 5 quart mixer and the other one is 4.5 quart, same parts same motor same everything.
There are four possibilities to look at here. Assuming your mixer has a normal capacitor start motor (older a200's used a different style motor), possibilities are, in order of likelihood:
Motor start capacitor Start switch (electronic or mechanical) Burned wiring Motor start winding
The start capacitor is located at the rear of the mixer. Remove the rear cover (4 screws) and pull the cover towards you. Disconnect one wire from the capacitor and test with any multimeter.
The start switch, if electronic, is able to be tested, but not very easily. Once you've eliminated the other possibilities, it's time to replace the (electronic) start switch. If the motor has a mechanical start switch, it's easy to test: Remove the two wires at the rear of the motor and test for continuity with the motor stationary. A multimeter should show near zero ohms for a good mechanical start switch.
Burned wiring should be easy to spot with some careful inspection around the motor, capacitor, and start switch.
Start winding: Look closely at the stator (stationary part of the motor). If some of the copper windings look significantly darker in color than the others, it's likely the start windings were overheated (the start windings are the thinner copper wires - if you look closely, approximately half of the wires are thinner than the other half). Look for a wiring diagram behind the power switch and determine which wires leading to the start switch and/or capacitor are for the start windings and test for continuity across the start winding. You should read a fairly small value such as 5 - 15 ohms. Values significantly outside this range could indicate a partially open or partially shorted start winding.
The 0.1 microfarad can be safely replaced with a 275 VAC 0.1mF mains capacitor. You can remove the clip that held the old electrolytic capacitor by sliding the old capacitor out and squeeezing the metal clip so that it disengages with the plastic base. The load resistor is 450 Ohm 15W or 20W wirewound. There is a 56 ohm resistor in series with the capacitor which helps smooth the speed change and reduces wear on the contacts. A 2W wirewound resistor works best. (It is worth removing the contacts and removing any pitting or carbon build up with fime emery paper). I have repaired about 20 speed controls sucessfully with these components.
had the same problem with mine, and couldn't read the values, so took one out of another mixer that was good. the tested value on the good one was around 107 nano farads. run your mixer without the cap for a short time only, to see if the speed problem is corrected. If slow speeds will work, then you know it to be the capacitor. Do not leave out for long period of time, you will burn out contacts and poss. outher components
Ken
K5A was pre phase control
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