The code means locked rotor. Disconnect power to the washer and remove the rear access panel. Remove the rear access panel securing screws and pull the panel off the cabinet.
Turn the drum pulley by hand to determine if there's a restriction that caused the locked rotor error. If there's a restriction, remove the drive belt. Pull the belt from one side of the drum pulley then turn the pulley in such a way that the belt unwraps from it.
Turn the drum pulley and the motor pulley to determine whether the drum or the rotor is being restricted.
The outer tub bearing is damaged if there's restriction in the drum pulley. Specify the model of your washer for the specific replacement part/s and installation guide.
Try to free the rotor if it is stuck by forcibly turning it back and forth. Replace the drive motor if the rotor cannot be unstuck. Specify the model of your washer for the specific replacement part and installation guide.
Check the drive motor and the motor control board if the drum and the rotor turns freely. Remove the front panel to access the motor control board and the motor terminals.
Disconnect power to the washer and open the door. Remove the two screws from the door hinges and pull the door out. Remove the remaining two screws from the other side of the door opening.
Hold the upper edges of the front panel posts and press in on the outer side then twist it inward to release it from the clips on the face of the cabinet. Tilt the top of the front panel away from the washer and remove it.
Disconnect the motor wiring harness from the terminals of the motor and check the resistance of the motor windings. Using an ohmmeter set to X1, measure the resistance between the right most and left most terminals, between the two middle terminals, and between the two remaining terminals. The resistance reading should be 2-3 ohms.
Reconnect the wiring harness to the motor terminals and disconnect the other end from the motor control terminals. Measure again the resistance of the motor windings at the other end of the wiring harness to check the harness's continuity. Replace the wiring harness if one of the motor windings reads open.
Remove the motor control board by pulling its vertical tab forward and lifting its front. Slide it forward and lift it off the bracket.
Visually check the components on the heat sink for any sign of damage including the 10-Ampere fuse near the coil. Also check the continuity of the fuse using an ohmmeter to make sure it is not blown. Replace the motor control board and the motor wiring harness if any sign of damage is found on the mentioned components or if the fuse has blown.
Install the new motor control board and the front panel including the door in reverse of the steps above.
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The LR code means "locked rotor" which is just a way of saying the control is not seeing the motor turning.
The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.
Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason. By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.
The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing. The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down. You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.
More information on when the error is occurring would be helpful resolving this problem. Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.
The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down. This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes. At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.
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