Plank of wood 2 metres long. cut into two lenghts. longer piece is four times the lenght of shorter piece. how long is each lenght?

Possibly, but it is more likly that you have sharpened the cutters one side shorter than the other, measure the cutters, and file them so as they are all the same lenght.

Hi abhotel1...
If I got your question right
1...How to oil the chain and bar...if it does not come with an auto oiler then fill a hand pump oil gun with "Bar and Chail" specially made for chainsaw bars and chains and oil the chain and bar with it while you cut your wood...give it a squirt of oil about every two minutes of cutting, adjust the lenght of time if you need to
2...type of oil...Bar and chain Oil
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1. Well this one is pretty simple. Since you are not supposed to trim the length trim the width instead.
to make the perimeter 0.4 m shorter cut the cloth by 0.2 m width the picture will make it clear.



2. let the length of rectangle be x cm
and breadth = 20 cm
now original perimeter = 2(x+20) cm


new length = x-30 cm
breadth remains same = 20 cm
new perimeter = 2(x-30+20) cm = 2(x-10) cm

According to question

new perimeter = old perimeter /2
2(x-10) = 2(x+20) /2
2x -20 = x + 20
x = 40 cm


hence length of longer side 40 cm.

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The most likly cause is that you have sharpened the cutters shorter on one side than the other, all the cutters must be the same lenght, if this has been going on for some time it will wear the guide bar rail on one side and make it even worse, remove the bar and dress the rails with a file, get both sides as level as you can, now re sharpen the chain to get all the cutters the same lenght, or fit a new chain

the DDR2 has a hole in the middle,look out for the longer and shorter , there is a tiny hole between the middle of the RAM,set it with the same lenght of ur DDR2 and carefully place it..inside the Board.

brake lines are available in several lenghts, you can do it in two pieces which will make life easier, use a use a brake union not a compression fitting, if the line is too long coil it near the master, it will absorb vibration

Possibly the problem is the wood itself. If it is burning both sides of the kerf then it is probably that your kiln dried wood is picking up moisture on the outside from the environment which causes it to bow inwards as it passes the saw. I have even had this problem with plywood. Just keeping timber in an unheated workshop for a while can cause the problem but after a few months it should equalize and the problem disappear at about 15% moisture content. (kiln dried timber should be nearer 10%)
Cut part way along a plank and then mesure the kerf at the end of the plank and at the front of the cut. if it is significantly narrower at the plank end then that is your problem.
These hard woods you mention are always a problem to cut on domestic saws at usually a maximum of 2000 watts . I use a 4500 watt motor in my saw and it will still complain at dry oak, ash and maple etc. especially if they are moving a bit as I cut them. Before I retired I had a panel saw half as powerful again as that and still those hard woods could cause trouble.

The link size is a 520. I recommend an "O" ring or "X" ring chain. They last much longer than the stock junk. They come in lenghts that need to be fitted to your bike, so you install it, mark it where you need to cut it, and remove it. I grind down the pins on the link I'm removing and use a hammer and punch to drive them out. Measure twice, and cut once, no room for mistakes here. They also come available with a master link with a clip, or a "penable" link that makes it a one piece chain.

It should not be a problem as long as he aligns the tires in a four wheel alinement it will be fine, on trucks some axles stick out more on one side than they do the other so don't worry about it, if he's any good he can still align them it's just more work for him.

I'd suggest getting a piece of string and running it the length of the existing line, then add about 10% to come up with an approximate lenght