Jet pump for cistern will not remain running. have no water pressure at all. replacing the relay switch did fix the problem.

Pump probably needs to be serviced. It probably pressurizes a tank and when that tank reaches a pressure the pump is turned off. But just guessing.

For a machine without a break-tank (a.k.a. cistern) and booster pump: check the inline debris strainer on the rinse water pipework; check you're not missing any rinse jets; check the inlet valve is fully opening.

For a boosted machine, check the pump impeller isn't disintegrating; check that the flexible hoses to the booster pump aren't collapsing internally.

For both machines: descale if you're in a hard water area.

bad heater element

Glad you got it fixed. Hope you didn't lose all your water in the process, we've been that way at times with our little system (can only afford 450 gal of storage with 650 gal transporter, no well).

Watch those strains on the pipes and make sure any further changes have good one way flow valves for this type system, expense doesn't look so bad when the alternative is being waterless!

the pressure switch is bad

F11 means Drainage fault.

Water present in appliance and is not being drained off. The display shows Drain fault F11. The buzzer is activated for 2 minutes.

Background information:
After each drain pump step, the circulation pump operates for 2 seconds and heater pressure switch B1/13 checks the water level. If it is too high (large quantity of residual water remaining in the cabinet), the drainage time is extended. If, after a further check, the water level is still too high, then the program is interrupted, the fault code is saved and the drain pump is activated. Fault code F11 is also registered if heater relay 1K1 is not activated after the fault code F51 register check; see Section 080-3.18. Drain hose kinked. Remedy: Check the drain hose for correct positioning.

Cause: Drain blocked.
Remedy:
1. Clean the on-site drain.
2. Check the sump drain.
3. Check the filters.
4. Check the heater pressure switch and replace it if necessary.

Cause: Ball in non-return valve in sump has not opened (e.g., jammed).
Remedy:
Clean the non-return valve in the sump or replace it if necessary. Cause: Foreign objects in the drain pump.

Remedy:
Clean the drain pump and its impeller.

Cause: Drain pump defective.
Remedy:
1. Check the voltage supply to the drain pump.
2. If correct voltage is present, check the drain pump motor winding.
3. Replace the drain pump, if necessary.

Cause: Foreign objects in heater pressure switch.
Remedy:
Check the heater pressure switch for blockages and correct switching point.

Cause: Heater relay defective. Heater relay (coil or contacts) becomes defective during the drainage step (after fault code F51 register check).
Remedy:
Replace the heater relay.


Hope this helps to solve it.

Look on u tube I found some system sets ups for my house the video's where very help full .

This sounds like a pressure switch and if water is comming from both ends the diarpham is probally bad and it's best to get a new one.

it sounds like the pump relay may be stuck closed. Also check the temp readout, if it thinks the water is too hot it will try to cool the water by running the jets and sometimes the blower as well.

Try cleaning the jet.