I have a 30 year old TriStar (bullet style with thick bumper gasket around the middle) and the High/Low speed switch is burnt out. I am trying to find instructions for how to separate the shell to get to the switch.

This could be one of two problems. It could be your switch is broken, preventing it from going to low speed. Try clicking it, does it still make a distinctive click sound, does it feel loose? If so it may be your switch: Rainbow e2 power switch
Otherwise if may be your computer in your E2 is starting to go bad. Often times if Rainbow stops going into one of the speeds it is due to a computer going bad. This is an expensive part and repair, so you should probably take it in and make sure it is the computer. Rainbow E2 controller 120v


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The A101N is held together by 3 #15 Torx (tm) screws. Two 2.5" long screws on each side of the lower shell (screws into the motor bulkhead on each side) and one recessed screw at the front of the shell. The front screw is a 1.5" Torx, all other screws holding bits and bobs on the shell are 1" Torx...you don't have to remove them, but it's handy to know that all the screws on the outer shell are interchangeable, except the 3 that hold the shell together. In addition, there is a large metal tab that slots into the rear of the rubber gasket that is clamped between the two halves of the shell. Use pliers to pry the slotted part of the gasket (it's a squared off section of the gasket that sticks out on one end). The pliers can get the gasket off the tab, and a narrow-shaft screwdriver (phillips or robertson) can hold the rubbber flap away from the tab on each side. Once the gasket is off the metal tab, the two halves of the shell should just pop apart. When re-assembling the shell, remember to line up the motor bulkhead with the notch in the gasket around the motor housing, the shell won't close if the motor is mis-aligned. Also, start by inserting the metal tab on the lower shell into the notches on the gasket, then stretch, pull, and coax the gasket into place around the lower shell first, before replacing the upper shell, and screwing the two halves back together. I'll try to get a video or some pictures up later. WebRepOverall ratingThis site has no rating(not enough votes)

I have the same problem with my older '80s Tristar.
This may work for your model, give it a try.
On mine, there are 3 phillips head screws holding the two halves of the cleaner together, and the rubber bumper.
You have to remove the screws first. Your model may have more or less screws.
On mine, there are two screws near the front wheels, down deep. I had problems taking them out, but not to worry, once they are loose, they are no longer holding the other half, don't worry about taking them fully out.
Also, at the rear, there is a small black plastic clip that has a screw in it. You'll need to remove that too. Once all the screws are removed, use a medium sized flat head screwdriver to go behind the rubber seal -- you're looking to get the screwdriver to where you can see or feel the edge of the canister. Simply twist the screwdriver a bit and the canister should feel like it's coming apart. Mess around with that for a bit, and the parts should come apart easily.

If you can not get the power nozzle to work then the best thing to do is take the nozzle to the local vacuum store(used) and they will tell you the best advice weather it be fix the old one or replace the head. You can pick up a brand new head for around 99.00 up to 350.00 depending on what you want and they have come a long way in the past few years so take a look at a couple new ones.

Your vacuum is fine. The switch can either run at full speed or half speed. You are running at full speed, you need a new 2 speed switch. You can pick them up at an Oreck Store for $29 or around $15 on eBay

Fritz , thanks please confirm... there are likely more than 2 leads from the motor??
I have not seen or worked on the Tristar CXL as it is very new.You will have a high low function but:

Should the power head function at both speeds or only hi speed

How many connectors pulled apart ?

Are the leads fastened onto the motor or are there push on male terminals on a terminal bar beside the motor with leads running off a shroud.
How many leads are on the switch itself....
Either way the wiring pattern will be the same,for all components it will just be a matter of which half of the motor harness connects in which terminal, if you wire it in reverse your speed switch should just function backward. The question is, is there a simple rocker switch for hi low or is there a circuit board type with a speed control on a mini board. If your power head functions at both speeds it will connect from the cord or rewind, prior to the speed switch. If it should only run on hi speed it will be tied into the hi speed half of the two speed switch.
So leaving your green ground out your pattern would be: black to 1 side of rewind to main switch to motor and head together and then remaining back to opposite side of rewind to cord.
Please confirm a bit more info as posted...

You must flip the Tri Star upside down to reveal hidden body screws. Generally 2 at back near the wheels and one at front below the cord retainer.
Once removed the body will separate at the bumper. Before removing the motor , note the position of the carbon brushes relative to the body housing. They will be offset allowing the housing to close without striking the motor.
This is a metal vac body, your connects must be clean and should be taped after using twist terminals as a precaution. Your cord will go first to the switch, then power runs from the switch to one side each of the power head and motor, then from the opposite power head and motor lead back to the switch.
You should secure a knot inside the body of the vac as a strain relief so the cord cannot slip out after connecting

Looking for owners manual for a Tristar MG1.

Look inside the two rear wheel slots. You will find the two retaining screws that hold the unit together.

If you have a voltage meter you could see where the problem lies. All TriStar parts including the motors, both the nozzle head motor and the actual vacuum motor are purchaseable online through www.totalvac.com
I have ordered parts through them and everything arrives no problem and they are priced nicely by the way.