Does this machine require a booster heater? If so,

Most of the Hobart LX series of dishwashers have their own built-in booster heaters. To check for one, remove the lower front panel (2 screws). The booster heater, if present, will be a stainless steel tank on the left side. If it doesn't have a built in booster heater then it was meant to be used with chemical sanitizer instead.

Hi you may have taken care of this by now, but anytime they start leaking from the bottom, they have rusted out and you will need to have it replaced.
Shastalaker7

The dishwasher has a built in instantaneous water heater, so even if the water feeding the d/w is cold the machine will heat it the the temp required for the cycle you have choosen. Reducing the temp will not effect the wash quality at all, in fact having a lower temp or cold water filling the machine will make the drying cycle at the end of the program more effective.
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hatco booster heater leak at pop off valve

Under normal and regular operation Hatco recommends that the unit be turned on at all times.
If the booster heater will not be used for an extended period of time or will be exposed to freezing conditions it should be drained to prevent damage to the unit.

The answer to this question will be based on the incoming water temperature that is supplied to the booster heater. The standard sizing for a booster heater is based off of a 40 degree F rise (140 degree F incoming water temperature) or a 70 degree F rise (110 degree F incoming water temperature). For a 40 degree F rise, a Hatco model C-5, S-5, or PMG-60 will supply the needed amount of rinse water for the LX-18 Hobart dishwasher. A 70 degree F rise would require a Hatco model C-9, S-9, or PMG-60 to supply the same Hobart model number.

A hatco C9 or C12 would be plenty big enough.I would use the larger kw unit if incoming water is very low,but it needs to be 140 degrees coming in so it doesnt sometimes trip the hi limit.

Hopefully you took the suggestion to run the correct 50 amp 208-240 service to the unit.

Converting the unit to an LX30C has a couple of pitfalls. The LX30C is connected directly to the incoming water supply, which should run 120-140 degrees. By reprogramming the unit as an LX30C, the booster would be disabled, which would mean the incoming water would flow through the de-energized booster and be cooling off while it sits in there between cycles and when the unit is shut down.

The incoming fill plumbing (5/8" heater hose) would have to reconnected from the fill solenoid valve directly to the vacuum breaker on the rear of the unit to bypass the booster heater.

On the 208-240 volt LX18/30/40's, the pump motor, booster heater, and sump heater run on 208-240. To convert it to 120 volts you would have to replace the sump heater and reconfigure the motor wiring in the motor junction box.

By the time this is all done, you've downgraded a great machine, confused the next service guy, and have to deal with nasty chlorine and all of it's headaches.

I

#1 I would check that you actually have 3 phases connected. #2 I would also check the ground. There could be a loose ground, or depending on the installation, the ground could be defeated by rubber washers in flex lines. Fix this by running a wire from the casing of the water heater to the pipe, bypassing the flex lines.
#3 Replace the thermastat. The thermastat has the reset button on it.

#'s 1 & 2 are very minimal in cost. #3 is still affordable.

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Here's a list of repair services for water heaters around Chicago:
http://local.yahoo.com/IL/Chicago/Home+Garden/Construction,+Repair,+Improvement/Water+Heater+Services