How to set up an intigrated amp to a 100 watt reciever

i would not wire them together especially if the watage is different you can blow an amp or get a lot of interference.

Its probably not a bad idea. Thats alot for a 100A panel to handle, a range needs a 50A, a water heater needs 30A, and the heat will need a 50A or a 60A breaker... Plus whatever else is in the house will be a bit more than the 100A service can handle. But if you don't have the money it will do for a while because for the most part they won't all be pulling at the same time. Word to the wise get at least a 30 space panel when you upgrade, I always install a 40 space panel because for the cost difference its well worth it for future needs because you'll fill it up quicker than you think and you'll have space for anything else you may want to add later on. Hope I helped

The Rheem water heater uses 4500 Watt elements
Check label on side of any appliance to see electrical rating details
2 element tank with two 4500 watt elements is still a 4500 watt appliance since both elements are never ON at same time.

Volts x amps = watts
amps = watts divided by volts

amps = 4500 divided by 240Volts or 220Volts
amps = 18.75
Your water heater uses 18.75 amps to 20.45 amps

Your 25 amp breaker should only carry 80% of rated value
25 amps x 80% = 20 amps.

So your water heater breaker is correctly sized.
You should have a 10 gauge wire going to this water heater.
12 gauge wire is a bit undersized for 4500 Watt water heater
Feel the water heater wire to see if it is warm.

If the main breaker is getting hot when 20 additional amps are being used by the water heater.
1) The house is using more amps than your 100 amp main can carry
Using the formula, 100 amps x 80% = 80 amps for the main breaker
Add up your total amp draw.
For example if your 3500 watt oven is ON, it draws 16 amps.
If your 5000 Watt electric heater is on, it draws 23 amps.
Your 1500 Watt 120V microwave draws 12.5 amps.
Add these numbers up plus your water heater, and it comes to 71 amps.
71 amps is getting close to the max 80 amp, but it's not over.
Now if you have a pool pump and and hot tub and a table saw going, the main breaker could be overdrawn.

2) To solve the problem short-term, you can put a timer on the water heater and use it only when needed.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Compare-13-electric-water-heater-timers.html

3) The main breaker is bad and needs to be replaced.

If you need help figuring circuits or timers, add a comment and I will help

Yes, just be sure connections are heavy enough wire, and obviously the inverter uses 12 vdc input. Hook jumper wires positive to positive, negative to negative, on all 12 volt batteries. Deep cycle batteries will work better than car batteries. Just remember, when re-charging them, that they last longer when charged slowly, so don't use a high amp setting on charger and to monitor them closely, and do it in a well ventilated area, away from any ignition sources.

Let's review your wiring. There's probably something miswired when you get symptoms like that. Let's work one circuit at a time.

For circuit #1, the incoming (LINE) black (hot) wire is connected to the #3 terminal. The white (neutral) is connected to the "A" terminal. The bare equipment grounding wire is connected to the "GR" terminal (the green screw on the case).

The outgoing (LOAD) black wire to the first set of lights is connected to terminal #4 and the outgoing white (neutral) wire connects to the "A" terminal. The outgoing bare wire to the lights goes to the "GR" terminal. It's best to twist the wires together with a pigtail, wirenut them and connect the pigtail to the "GR" terminal.

Now for separate circuit #2. The incoming (LINE) black (hot) connects to terminal #1. The incoming white (neutral) connects to terminal "A". The incoming bare wire connects to the "GR" terminal.

The outgoing (LOAD) black wire to the 2nd set of lights connects to the #2 terminal. The outgoing white (neutral) goes to the "A" terminal. It's OK to twist all the white neutral wires (incoming _and_ outgoing for _both_ circuits) together with a pigtail that goes to the "A" terminal. Use a red wirenut.

As long as you don't load the 15 amp breaker over 12 amps (this is considered a continuous circuit and it cannot be loaded over 80% per NEC), you don't have to have two circuits if you don't want too. Figure about 1 amp per light as long as the lights aren't over 100 watt. (100 watt lamp/120 volts = 0.83 amps (round to one amp)

add watt power for two speakers together(100 watt as example)your amp power must be (120 watt)at least.

There is no reason even if the wire was to small it would still allow ssound.make sure you have good connections.

First off excellent choice on audio equipment, i guarantee you won't be disappointed. So your subs are dual coil 2 ohms. So wire each individual sub in series. If you don't know what this means i'll explain. On each sub there are 2 sets of wire terminals. Connect a wire from the one set's - to the other set's +. Do this on both subs and you will have the coils wired in series making each sub 4ohms. Now to hook the subs together you'll need to wire them in parallel. Now since you have your coils in series, on each sub you have one + terminal and one - terminal left. So run a wire from the + terminal remaining on each sub, and run them to your amp. Splice the ends of the two wires together and plug them into the + speaker output of the amp. Connect the two negatives in the same way and plug them into the - port on the amp. You will now have your amp running at its desired 2ohms. When wiring this disconnect the fuse on your amp power wire to avoid short problems. And if you get confused at all, and aren't sure what to do, ask again don't guess, if its done wrong you could severely damage your equipment. Hope this helped, enjoy the bass...

Well one problem is you might need a smaller amp depending on how many speakers you have, 1200 watts is way overpowering for 300watt max speakers and could possibly blow them and even catch them on fire!!!! But everything else is compatable because all of your epuipment is of a newer products but if you dont have 4 guage wires or anything else make sure you get them heres a list: 4 gauge wires for power and ground, REM wire "blue is the normal color" RCA jacks, A compacitor, fuse for battery to amp to keep system from blowing up, 8 gauge speaker wire or even 12 guage to hook up from the amp to the speakers, That should be the common things you need to have a good thumpin system!!!!

Hi jimmyjames,

 

How do you have the wires hooked from the sony reciever to the inputs on the mtx? 

 Sounds like your Remote wire is way too big. it should be 14 guage.  It only sends a low voltage low amp signal.

 

Another thing that could be messing up the sounds is the routing of the wires.  you should have the power supply wires separate from the Audiop signal wiring.  Power should run down the Driver side and Audio down the passenger side.

 

When you answer I may be able to tell you more.