Maytag A108--What is the injector do and can I by

It is possible the hot cold switch is flawed and stuck on mix of hot and cold I would have the inlet valve checked with a multi meter they can also check it for u at most appliance parts stores

In some models it creates an automatic by-pass when the filter is removed. If this is one of those models remove the filter and use the dispenser with it out. If you get good pressure now, it indicates a problem in the filter housing. If it's still slow it could be due to low supply water pressure or a defective valve. You can check the water at the valve inlet and outlet. First turn the inlet (main) water supply valve off. Now disconnect the water inlet line at the valve and place the end of it in a pitcher. Turn the water valve back on and check if there is a good solid water flow. If the water flow is good reconnect the water to the valve and now take the water line loose on the back side of the valve. Activate the water dispenser and check how the water flow is coming out of the valve. You will probably need another person to help you with this check. If the water seems slow, then the valve will need to be replaced.

Hi and welome to FixYa. I am Kelly.
You are experiencing an inlet water valve water bypass symptom. What is happening is that the inlet water valve is allowing water to drip into the ice maker after the harvest cycle has long since finished. This is a common failure and all brands of refrigerator that are more than 5 years old. Replacing the inlet water valve will correct the over-fill problem. (I actually had to do this on my own 8 year old Maytag refrigerator not 6 months ago.) If you provide a model number I can point you to several on line sources for the inlet water valve.

Or you can just enter your model number on the following links:
http://www.frigidaire.com/productregistration (enter your model number)

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action (Use the "Find it fast" window in "Model; search")

http://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts (enter your model number in the search window)

If you do not have an inline water filter I would recommend that you install one at the time you replace the inlet water valve. It will keep plumbing debris out of the now inlet water valve and ensure a longer service life for same.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

HI. Usually this will be the cause of a damaged valve or a mineral build up inside the valve that will not allow the valve to open fully. This type of mechanical failure can not be repair, due to the sealed state of the assembly. With that said; Use my procedure to inspect and confirm the damage at hand.

Inlet inspection procedure:

The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink or in the wall behind the unit). Next; Disconnect the supply line and remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.

The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors

Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush, or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).


Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.

Water control valve on rear has failed on the side that controls the dispenser. Very unlikely the switch up front but possible. Someone can ohm the coil and or test the voltage to the coil while someone presses dispense water. Be right back, Sea Breeze

Start by checking and replacing any filters on your system.

The only part that functions when calling for water is the water valve located in the bottom rear of the machine.
If you are using copper water lines, they can shudder in rare occasions. It's going to be a look and see to determine that problem.

Water valves are notoriously fickle. Changing the valve is always a good idea, if the machine is 5 or nearing 5 years of age.

HI. Check the line inside the unit to make sure it is not frozen, If you have confirmed that a frozen line is not the issue, move on to the inlet valve assembly.



The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.

The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors

Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush, or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).


Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.

Does your fridge have a inline water filter or one inside the fridge? If so, try replacing the wate filter, as it could be obstructed and old and causing the loss of water flow.

It's a good idea to keep track of the date when any filter is installed so you can replace it before it losses it ability to filter properly, both from a issue of conveinence and for health reasons.

A dirty, old filter can allow some nasty contaminants to pass through after a fixed amount of time or set amount of water has passed through it.

If there is no filter, you might have to replace the water inlet valve that supplys water to the fridge. Just be sure to turn of the water line the fridge is connected to, before servicing the water supply valve that supplies the fridge.

Hope that helps, Best regards!

Check pump. I would say it is the most likely cause for the water leak, especially if itdoes it while filling and on spin as the pump holds some residual water in it . That is normal.

Check under the sink Miele puts a water flow sensor meter inline with your hot water line to sense the flow and rate to the proper level there is a small catch screen on the inlet side of it. turn off your water to the dishwasher and open the line up and check that screen That would be the first step.