THE MOTOR RUNS BUT DOESN´T CHARGE THE BATTERY

CHECK FUSE IS OUT BEHIND DASH IF NOT CHECK VOLTAGE AT POS CABLE ON BATTERY WHILE RUNNING REMOVE POSITVE CABLE BETWEEN 12.5 TO 13.5 IF YES BAD BATTERY IF NO BAD RECTI FIER REPLACE CHECK STATER AT RECTIFYER IF NO VOLTAGE RE PLACE STATER TO

stater under fly wheel regulater on frame mount near motor

Sounds like you have a problem with a regulator. Hard to tell without knowing what model of mower you own. You must remember that whatever is attached to your battery charges it while the motor is running. If the battery does not receive that needed charge, running the motor will certainly drain your battery.

Try to always list the model number. Something like 917289472 would be the model number. Here is a wiring diagram for that model. Note the test voltages with unit running. Check the wiring from the regulator to the ignition switch and from the switch to the battery. It is possible for the ignition switch to be bad and keep it from charging. Test at these terminals with voltage tester. You should have more than 12 V at the regulator( diagram says 9-16 volts). If you need the manual you can go to www.searspartsdirect.com and download diagram. Enter YOUR model number. Good luck!

Simplest test is to leave it on the engine, battery hooked up normally. Run the engine at normal full speed (not just idling) and use your voltmeter to measure the voltage across the battery with your DMM. If you measure 13.5 to 14 volts, your rectifier/regulator is probably OK.
It can't easily be tested off the mower. You'd need a source of AC at 24 volts to simulate the motor's stator winding, and a load that draws about 23 amps at 12 volts.
Don't forget a bad battery can cause failure to charge - it's not always the regulator.

You can't check the charge system by taking off a cable,you need to use a volt meter.If the tractor is running between 13.5 and 15 volts then you are ok.If the tractor is charging above 15v and needs to be boosted then you need a battery.If the battery never gets above 12.6 v then the alternator or regulator is defective.The only way to know if it is the stator or the regulator is to find the wires that come from the stator and see if they will put out more than 20 volts a.c. at half throttle,if so the stator is good.Next step is to check the regulator to see if at least one wire goes to the battery live[12volts],if so replace the regulator,if not repair the wiring.

first of all check the voltage across the battery with the bike running,it should be between 13.2 and 14.5 volts,if it is not then there is a good chance that either your alternator or generaator need new brushes or by your description hane the voltage regulator checked or replaced,if this is not working correctly you will not charge the baateery,hope this helps

When the tractor has not been run for a hour or so use a meter and check the battery voltage. Then start the machine and check the battery voltage. The voltage should be higher when running. Normally 12.5 to 14vdc. Any higher then your voltage regulator in not working and your cooking your battery. Lower and the charging system is not working. If it has a dedicated alternator then it or it's voltage regulator is bad. Usually the voltage regulator is built in to the alternator and can't be changed by itself. Check your parts manual if one is listed by itself.

Check the seat switch for the running problem. Disconnect the switch and jump the harness with a piece of wire, and see if the tractor stays running. If so, then the switch is bad. As for the charging problem. Test the voltage regulator. Start the tractor and put a volt meter across the battery. Red to red and black to black. Run the RPM to full throttle. You should have a reading of 14 to 14.5 volts. If not, the regulator is bad. Hope this helps.

the charging system runsfrom a stator which is underneath the flywheel and runs to a rectifier/regulator module and to the battery. it will power the blades if it is an electric clutch system and also the fuel plunger system on the carbuerator