Tlescopic sight first how to use it,how to zero

Take a look at YouTube on zeroing weapon sights

Contact MAKER on their Website , OR local tasco shop , & Yellow Pages

Move the rear sight in the direction you want the bullet to move on the target. Shoot groups of at least three and move the group instead of trying to zero on one shot.

Zero at 200 and it'll be 1 1/2" high at 100 and about nine inches low at 300.

What is the calibre and velocity and target species as the zero distance could be 50-200 yards depending on what you are shooting
most of my rifles are set to 100yards except for the nitro express
Which is zeroed for 55 yrds and the 17 wildcat which is 200 yards
It all depends on the range you will be shooting most

Sight in your scope, Loosen the set screws and zero the dials the re-set the set screws. This will make it easy for you to adjust for distance and wind from the zero setting when in the field shooting. Then you can go back to your zero.

I think the mildots only go so far, you have to do your homework on these things. Your 22.250 zeroed in at 100 yrds, velocity 3800, drops 7.4 inches at 300 yards, and 37 inches at 500 yards, so your mildots being set at x number of inches per dot, will not hit at 500 yards, your bullet is not enough. Even sighted in at 400 yards, the bullet drops 13.6 inches at 500 yards. But,,, with the same 400 yard zero, at 100,+4.7,200,+7.7,300,+6.6. That is about the flatest you'll get. And your mildots will be set likewise. You know they made the mildot scope for the trajectory of the 308. They changed everything for that bullet.

Sounds like you want to "re-sight" in your rifle. Make sure mounts are okay and tight. Look down barrel and then thru scope and eyeball windage and elevation adjustments so the scope seems to be fairly in line.

Clean barrel if it needs it.

For basic sight in, start at 25 yards with a large(3 to 4 feet) cardboard or wood backdrop around target (bullseye). Fire at target. Once done, look through scope and position rifle such that the shot mark you created is dead zero. Hold rifle very steady and you or buddy move windage and elevation adjustments until scope moves dead zero back toward original target (bullseye). Fine tune from there. Air cool rifle between rounds. Once dead eye, fire another round or two to check grouping. Check your ballistics (sometimes on ammo box) to see how height at 25 yards affects your desired dead on target (100 yards, 150 yards, 250 yards etc.). Adjust accordingly. Example: you may need to sight in at an inch high at 25 yards, depending on your dead on target distance..

Always remove sling from barrel when sighting in.

Try to sight in at similar temperature as you intended shooting temperatures, if possible.

If not black powder, avoid cleaning barrel between sight in and hunt/competition unless you note bad buildup inside.

If you change ammo, understand that that may affect performance. Once a preferred ammo is found, some even try to buy a decent quantity with the same lot number on the boxes if storage allows for such.

First, adjust wind-age and elevation to center or zero position. Remove your scope from the gun and make sure that the scope mounts are aligned, this is critical. Purchase an alignment tool is necessary. Then remount the scope. The scope should seat in the mounts without binding. If it does bind, the mounts are not aligned.
Start sighting in at close range,10 to 30 yards, then move out to 100 yards.

Hello,
I had the same problem but was able to solve it by shimming the scope mounts with a thin piece of plastic. Put it under the rear to raise the sighting and under the front to lower. I still plan to buy my son a better scope.