I am trying to replace a two wire light switch(both white) with a leviton photoelectric 3 wire motion activated light control(red, black and green). I am trying to determine which wire goes to which?

red never connects to black as that is power to neutral if wired correctly
get in a qualified electrician to check the wiring and help you install the unit

http://www.automanualparts.com/wiring-diagram-for-3-way-switch-with-dimmer/

use above link

Is the old one a three way? in other words can you control the light from two locations? If so the Leviton wont work

Leviton PR180 is a single-pole or 3-way motion activated light switch.
Resources:
http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=452283§ion=10892&minisite=10026

The green connects to bare ground wire.
The yellow-red is not used EXCEPT to replace 3-way switch. Cap off yellow-red wire when wiring single-pole.

Your single pole switch has two black wires.
One black wire is Hot from breaker, and the other black wire goes to Load.
Turn power on, and test each black wire to bare copper wire. Tester lights up on Hot wire.

Hot wire connects to PR180 black wire.
Load wire connects to RR180 red wire

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The old single pole switch has 2 black wires.
One black wire is hot from circuit breaker box, and the other black wire goes to load (light, fan, motor)

New device has black wire: connect this to hot from circuit breaker box.
New device red wire: connect this to load wire
New device has white wire: connect this to Neutral wires.
Neutral wires are white wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut and pushed to back of box. If your box does not have neutral wires, then connect device white wire to bare ground wire.

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In addition to the black, red, green, and yellow/red wires on the switch, there should also be a white wire or terminal marked WH. The black wire on the switch connects to the incoming black wire (line in or hot) inside the switch box. The red wire on the switch connects to the outgoing black wire (to the load) inside the switch box. The green connects to the bare wires inside the switch box. The yellow/red is not used in a single pole application such as yours. The two white wires inside the switch box are twisted together and _also_ connected to the WH terminal (or white wire) on the switch.

Need more information.
Project is not clearly defined.
Add a comment with clear description of each wire and what Load is being controlled.
Why are you using a 4-way switch? Are you controlling 240Volt circuit?

Photoelectric switch usually has red, black, white wires, and usually replaces a single pole switch but can also be used to control 240Volt circuit in some wiring diagrams.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Wire-photo-eye-125.jpg

4-way switch has 4 screw terminals and is generally not used to replace a single-pole photoelectric eye, but can be used to control 240Volt circuit in some wiring diagrams, so I'm not sure what you are doing.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Typical-3-Way-switches-450.jpg

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Electrician test wiring before connecting anything.
First of all, you don't mention what type of switch was replaced.

1) Leviton 6230 countdown timer is made to replace single-pole light switch only.
Single pole is where 1 switch controls the Load (light fan motor)

Your wiring sounds like 3-way switch.
3-way is where 2 switches control same Load.
For example a hallway usually has 3-way switches.

To confirm. If old switch has 1 dark screw, 2 brass screws, and 1 green screw, then that is 3-way switch. Use Leviton LTB15, LTB30, LTB60, LTB02, LTB12 countdown timer for 3-way.
Smarthome sells product and shows .pdf manual
http://www.smarthome.com/4255/Leviton-LTB60-1LZ-4-Button-10-20-30-60-Minute-Countdown-Timer-Switch/p.aspx


2) If old switch has 2 brass screws and 1 green screw then that is single-pole switch.

3) If you are replacing single-pole switch, here are testing & wiring instructions for Leviton timer.
Remove device and separate wires for testing.
Use ordinary two wire tester.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands are away from power.
Do not untwist wires that were twisted together before you started.
Turn on power.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire. This wire will connect to timer black wire.
Now you know Hot wire.
Test Hot wire to each of the other wires, excluding bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on neutral. Timer white wire connects to Neutral wire.
If box does not contain Neutral wire, then timer white wire connects to bare ground.

Timer green wire connects to bare ground wire.
Timer red wire connects to wire going to Load.

Review old switches:
Two old switches > each has 2 wires
Old switch 1 > Red and White
Old switch 2 > Black and White
The same white wire connects to both switches, so effectively they count as 1 wire
This means you have 3 wires ... 1 White, 1 Red, 1 Black
Each switch controls a separate load (light, fan, motor)

New Leviton double-rocker switch:
-Leviton has 2 Brass-colored screws on one side, and these screws are connected together by a brass plate >> your Hot wire will connect to brass screw
-Leviton has 2 Silver-colored screws on other side, and neither of these screws are connected in any way >> the wires going to each load will connect on a different screw on this side of switch.

Hot wire: Each box in your house has exactly 1 hot wire that is connected back to breaker box. This is true for all boxes (excluding boxes that have a 3-way & 4-way switches).
We need to identify Hot wire.

-By code the Hot wire is black for identification purposes ... but your box sounds like maybe the Hot wire is White.
-If your Hot wire is white, that is NOT an immediate safety issue ... it will not cause a fire or malfunction ... it is a code violation ... because code requires things be uniform so next electrician knows what previous guy did. So some day, electrician working outside grabs wrong color wire, and wow. I say this so you know.

Moving on.

Identify Hot wire:
-Pull 3 wires up so they can be tested
-Turn on power
-Use ordinary tester, or old lamp with plug cut off and wires stripped back
-Tape tester lead to sticks so hands are away from voltage
-Power is on. Don't stand in water or touch metal pipes, and you're fine.
-You have 3 wires in box + ground wire
-Test all 3 wires to bare ground wire >> when tester lights up, that is Hot wire ... testing is complete

Connect wires to Leviton double-rocker:
-Power is OFF.
-You have 3 wires - 1 White, 1 Black, 1 Red >> one is Hot wire, the other two wires go to load
-Hot wire connects to Brass-colored screws on new Leviton.
-Brass colored screws are connected together by a brass plate so the Hot does not need to connect to both brass screws.
-The other two wires connect to Silver screws on other side of new Leviton switch
-One wire goes to each silver screw
-Connect bare ground wire to green screw.
-Push wires back into box. Use eraser end of pencil if needed.
-Make sure ground wire is back and away from screws on switch
-That's it.

Connectthe SUPPLY wire (Black) to the Photoelectric Black. ALL of the white wires - to lights and from supply and on PE - connect together
Redfrom PE goes to all light fixture black lines