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Two options...one drain hole blocked in freezer,clean with copper wire/bleach to clear gunge.
two outside temp too cold i.e. unit in garage/outhouse( too cold for compressor )
also check seal to doors.air leaks...
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seems like you have a defrost issue, with this unit, its more than likely the adaptive defrost control found in the upper right hand corner of the fridge. You have to take down the lights and control.... You can find your part on any of the Parts websites for around 75.00.. IMPERITIVE unplug the fridge before replacing the board..
The defrost cycle is not working properly, there are three things involved in system. #1 Defrost timer in refrigerator #2 Thermostat on coils to tell if unit is frozen #3 heater element located under coils thaws coils when frozen. the defrost timer if it is manual < located at the front of light assembly panel in top of refrigerator there will be a hole with a plastic piece that resembles a screw strait screw head> it turns and every 8hrs aprox. it stops operations and starts defrost cycle by allowing voltage to the thermostat and if thermostat is frozen it allows power to element for thawing coils. If defrost timer is manual look for direction it is facing and mark edge to see if timer is turning< very slow turning and is easiest way> if you can get an ohm meter ohm the element on high setting< if it has continuity element is operable> check wiring just to be sure not problem. If you find the timer does turn and doesn't stay in one position over 40 minutes then the thermostat is bad.If element fails tesing then the element is bad and if timer stays in one position then it is bad. If unit is equiped with electronic defrost timer and element is good in would replace timer and thermostat to guaranty that resolved problem
Let it defrost for awhile. Hook it back up, After on for a bit, check the fan under the fridge to see if it works. Also is there any air blowing inside the fridge and freezer. If not then the cooling fan has gone bad. Thats easy to replace. If none of the above then eather the compressor is going out but doubtful being there is ice on the back. But the freon could be low.
Either the evap fan has a problem, or the defrost system has failed. You should never see frost in the freezer section as the defrost sensor should sense that the coils need to be defrosted before that much frost accumulates.
Unplugging to clean out helped because the frost got a chance to melt away.
If you find the evap motor is running, then the things to check are the defrost sensor, the defrost timer, and the defrost heater.
That is usually caused by either lack of airflow through the outdoor coils. (Dirty coils, need cleaning)
Bad defrost board. (needs to be diagnosed with multimeter and extensive explinations and/or experience to be sure)
Low refridgerant, causing premature freeze up and in turn causing frequent defrost cycle. (Recharge to proper pressures with proper refridgerant type. Requires EPA certification for use of refridgerant, you would also need refridgerant guages, temperature reading device, and refridgerant.)
YOU NEED TO CHECK THAT YOUR HEATER ELEMENT AND SENSORS ARE FUNCTIONING WELL AS THAT WILL CAUSE THE ICE BUILD UP AND THE UNIT NOT TO WORK PROPERLY. GOODLUCK.MOHAMED
Hey how yo doing? on most refriderator there are two important parts to keeping freezer from freezing over, they are the bimetal thermostat and ice pipe heater. The bimetal therostat is a preset thermostat that ranges from 54degrees farenheit to about 60, when the coils (inside the freezer compartment behind the back panel) reach the preset temp. it closes a circuit and send electricity to the ice pipe heater, to warm the freezer coils preventing from freezing over. if any one of those components fail, your freezer will continue to freeze solid until there is no more space for ice to build on coils decreasing air flow from the evaporator fan blowing air into your fridge.To test you will minor knowledge on using a multimeter.(REMEBER TO UNPLUG REFRIDGERATOR BEFORE SERVICING, IF YOU UNCOMFORTABLE WORKING ON APPLIANCE PLEASE CONTACT A PROFFESIONAL REPAIR SERVICE..) If you'd like to continue please respond.
GOOD LUCK, WORK SAFELY..
quickest and cheapest way is to switch the unit off overnight. possibly missed a proper defrost cycle and evap.coil is blocked. when properly defrosted,switch on and you could be back on line
dm, I'm not sure if the thermostat is mechanical or electronic. Assuming mechanical...and I do...turn it to the lowest number...does it turn off? If this works properly, the problem is likely not the control. Does the compressor turn off at any time? If not after an hour or so of operation, the stat could be defective. That's my first guess. Oh, have you made sure that you don't have the ducts in the freezer blocked? The would deflect too much cold air to the fridge section.
Next, defrost the unit and clean the condenser coils. This will help the unit work properly. Then, wait awhile with the unit off. Meanwhile, access the compressor in the rear of the unit. Find the largest pipe coming out of the compressor. Turn the unit on. The largest pipe should frost and then, in about 5 minutes or so...either cause condensation or dry out. If neither happens and the line is either not COLD to the touch or frosty, you're low on gas. If the unit is less than 5 years old, you may get warranty coverage on the sealed unit from the mfgr. Believe it or not, too little gas will cause freezing in some cases!
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