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Verify that the amplifier is turning on by looking to see that it is lit up.
2
Use a voltmeter to verify your power supply is a good 12
volts by touching the ground lead to you amplifier's ground screw and
the positive one to the amplifier's constant power supply screw. Also
verify that you have 12 volts coming from the remote lead wire which is
usually a thin blue wire between the ground and constant 12 volt supply.
3
Look for the "thermal overload" light. It is usually a red
LED on the side of the amp. If the amp feels really warm and this light
is lit, the amp has probably overheated from being tuned wrong or turned
up too loud and shut itself down to cool off.
4
Check the fuses on the amplifier. These can blow with extended use or during heavy bursts of use.
5
Make sure the "Gain" and other volume controls are turned up.
6
Confirm that the signal wire is still attached to the
amplifier and has not come disconnected by vibrations in the car. Also
check that the wires running out of the amp to the speakers are still
attached to the amp.
im guessing both speakers are 4 ohms ..mtx 4ohms and kicker dual 4ohms..now if your amp can go down to 1 ohm wiring the kicker dual coils in parallel (2ohms) and the mtx connected together (4ohms) should leave you with a final impedance between 1 and 2 ohms ...i suggest you use one or get another
No, this is far to powerful of an amp to use 8 gauge. Use 4 gauge copper stranded wire. Using stranded copper wire is best for performance. I recommend a 100amp fuse being ran inline no more than 6 inches off the positive battery terminal as well.
You can use a 6 gauge copper stranded wire one one condition and that is if you use only a 4 Ohm speaker. Anything above that you need to go up to 4 gauge.
The LED should be red. If you are not getting power to the sub, make sure the speakers are connected properly to the amp. Also make sure that the gain control is turned up. If it is all the way down, you will not hear anything from the sub(s). If none of that works, it is possible that you have a blown sub. If you smell a burnt smell near the speaker magnet, there is damage to the voice coil in the sub.
make sure the power wire and the remote wire have voltage. at least 12 volts. make sure the ground wire is good and has a good solid ground. after that make sure the rca cables are getting signal from the radio. if you have a small speaker or tweeter you can touch the wires from the speaker to the rca cables and it should play music very quietly. meter the subs and make sure theyre ok and not shorted or bad. if all that checks out good.... the amp is probably bad. start with all the simple stuff and work youre way up. if the amp has good power and signal and good speakers then the only thing thats left is the amp. good luck
the light with the power light(middle) is a blue/purple faint light try checking it out at night.The squiggy(as heat waves) will only light when the amps shuts down due to thermal protection(wait for it to cool). The bolt/yellow (short circuit) will light when there is an electrical overload in any of the wires(check +ve leads).
if your amplifier has the internal Kicker card dealie "little computer card on the side that you can change out crossover settings and such," Turn off the vehicle, remove this device and make sure the contacts on the card are clean and free from black soot (showing a spark). clean the contacts with a pencil eraser or something hard but soft...
and put the little card back in place, start the car again and see if that helps,
I used to lose one speaker every once in a while with the same amp. I ended up replacing the module with a different one from my dealer and it worked fine (still does and it's been in my car 6 years).
Check that little module.
if this doesnt work, while the car is running and the music is "playing" wiggle the card and see if it works sometimes and not others. Likely is the little module.
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