Transmission adjustment I need to know how to put the arm back on and how to locate it

The transmission may need adjusted.

The idler arm assembly with the pulley puts tension on the V belt to turn the brushroll, if the idler arm isn't releasing the tension properly the brushroll will keep spinning even with the handle forward. Inspect this area to see if you can find what could be causing the belt to not release tension.

There is a hole at the back of the powerhead near the height adjustment lever. Just put something slender in the hole like a screw driver to reset.

Hi dbk48..
Your listing is under vacuum cleaners and I have never seen a vacuum with a carburetor.
You did not say what machine (lawnmower,weed trimmer,ect) would not run...so it is really difficult to tell you how to adjust the carburetor.
I will include some info on a trimmer/mower carburetor repair...Just guessing that is what you need.
Please take time to rate me
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your problem may be more than just a carburetor adjustment...

Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:
Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting a bright blue spark at the spark plug.
You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and pulling the crank rope, if you are getting a nice blue spark then:
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the mower/trimmer is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Note:
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
Please take time to rate me

HI There,

The part that raises and lowers the height adjustment goes underneath of the hood on the vacuum cleaner, and is held on by the carpet height adjustment know on the top of the hood.

I've done a repair below that explains how to get the hood off of the roller brush housing, and replace the knob next to it which is the rug/floor selector knob which is the one right next to the height adjustment part. The repair on your machine will be the exact same process however. Hope this helped you:

Hello,

If you've already changed the belts and the machine still won't run, it can really be only a few things.

The first thing you should check to make sure that the roller brush is good. You may do this by removing the bottom plate, and then taking the roller brush out of the vacuum. Hold the bar using just your fingertips on the very ends of the brush on the bearing caps. With just holding the bearing caps with your fingers, use your thumbs to try and spin the bar. Does it spin freely without any resistance? If no, then you'll need to replace the roller brush. Here's a direct link to the exact roller brush for your Hoover Windtunnel Self-Propelled:
Hoover Windtunnel Agitator Brush Part # 48414069

If the roller brush spins freely several times on each spin, then your machine may possibly have a bad Rug / Floor actuator arm. This part controls the internal pulley that stops the roller brush when you turn it from carpet to floor mode.

I'm guessing that this is probably a more likely cause of your brushes not spinning. Here's how you can check this part:

Step 1. Make sure that the vacuum is unplugged. Turn the machine upside down so that the brushes are facing upwards. I find the easiest way to do this is to put the brushes on top of a counter top or work bench with the handle of the vacuum resting on the floor. Remove the four screws that hold the bottom plate in place. Remove the bottom plate, both belts and then the roller brush from the machine:



Step 2. There are 3 screws that hold the top brush cover in place that need to be removed. On the right side the screw is down below the transmission to the right. There's also a screw in the agitator tray, in the middle that needs to be removed. NOTE: This small screw in the agitator tray is only present on some models, you's may or may not have this little screw, but all models will have all other screws circled. I have circled both screws that need to be removed:



The screws on the left side that need to be removed are also circled. One screw holds the upper brush cover on, and the other two screws secure the hose in place. Remove all three screws as well as the transparent hose cover:



Step 3. After all of these screws have been removed, there are two clips that are the last things holding the top brush cover onto the vacuum. Use a flat head screwdriver to push these clips off on both the left and right sides. The right side clip is near the pulley that the flat belt rides on, and the left side clip is next to the internal hose.



Step 4. Once both of these clips have been pushed so the unhook from the lower agitator housing, remove the top cover. On the top you'll see two selector knows, one for the height adjustment, the other that controls the rug / floor setting. Turn the cover over and look at the opposite side of the knob that controls the rug / floor selector. There should be an arm that extends out that looks like this:




Sometimes this arm will break off, which will prevent the actuator arm from activating the rug carpet setting. The machine basically will always be set to bare surface floor mode. Is this arm broken off on yours? If yes, then here's how you can remove it from the machine.

Take your flathead screw driver, and place it underneath of the of selector knob on the top of the cover. Simply lightly pry upwards to separate the knob from the arm underneath:



Replace the actuator arm with a new one and see if this fixed your problem. If this was not the problem, there's really only one other possible thing it could be, but I rarely see this go bad. Please let me know if this fixed your problem, or if it is something else wrong. I'll be happy to then walk you through the last remaining possible problem.

I really hope that this repair was helpful to you. If you did find it to be helpful, help other Fixya users with the same problem find this repair by rating it helpful. You can do this by clicking on the thumbs up icons in the top of the repair.

Thank you very much,

Chris J.

There are really two reasons why the self-propelled wouldn't work. It could either be the belts on the vacuum cleaner are stretched or broken. The belts on this model control both the self-propelled transmission, as well as the brush roller. Here's a video that shows you how to inspect the roller brush and belts to make sure that they are installed properly and working. Try this repair first, as this is the easier one to fix.


The other problem if the belts are installed properly that would cause the self-propelled wouldn't work would be the self-propelled actuator arm. There is a cable that starts at the handle of the vacuum, and runs all the way down to the floor head of the vacuum that controls the transmission. As you pull backwards on the handle of the vacuum, the cable pulls this actuator arm backwards, which then turns the wheels backwards, and when you push forward it turns the wheels forward.

The problem with the way it's designed however, is that if you pick up the vacuum cleaner by the handle of the machine rather then using the carrying handle on the back of the vacuum, it causes too much tension on the actuator arm, and will cause the cable to rip right out of the arm.

This is a VERY common problem on this model. To check and see if this part is broken on your vacuum, step on the handle release pedal so that the handle is in the vacuuming position, push the pedal a second time so the machine lays flat on the floor.

Now if you look right behind the height adjustment switch, and the rug / floor switch where the floor part meets the upright part, you should see a cable that connects into the actuator arm. Pull up and down on the handle and look for movement. Is the cable loose with only a nut attached to it, or is it resting in the actuator arm?

Here's a very helpful link that shows you exactly how to replace the actuator arm:
How to Replace the Actuator Arm on Hoover Self-Propelled Windtunnel

If this didn't help you, and the problem is still happening, please just use the add a comment form here on Fixya and let me know that you're still having problems. I'd be honored to go through and do some more advanced diagnosing with you.


I hope this we helpful to you. If you did find this helpful, please be so kind and leave feedback for me. This is why repair professionals like myself continue to come back and give free repair advice, to get the recognition of a job well done.

Thanks so much,

Chris Jones
GoVacuum.com

How to Change Actuator on Hoover Self-Propel vacuum Cleaner - Step by Step This is a notorious problem for the Hoover WindTunnel Self-Propelled Models. What happpens is that the handle of the vacuum that controls the transmission is controlled by an actuator arm that is attached to a cable that runs down through the machine. The poor design of this self propelled system is design in such a way that if you pick up the vacuum using the handle (this is natural way to do it, I'm guilty of this as well), it puts too much strain on the actuator arm that controls the self-propelled mechanism, and causes the nut, washer, and screw to strip right out of the actuator arm. This explains why your handle is so loose. You may verify this by looking at the gap between the upright body, and the lower agitator housing, right where the vacuum pivots when you step on the handle release pedal. You should see when you move the handle up and down that the cable and nut are the only parts moving, and you should be able to see where the nut did sit inside of the actuator arm before it was stripped. The good news is that this is a relatively inexpensive part, and the repair is really not that difficult.

I will explain step by step, and include pictures so that you may see how to replace the part that's broken.
Always be sure your vacuum is unplugged from the electrical outlet before performing any kind of service!
Tools and materials:
Torx bit or driver size T-25
Flat blade screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
Actuator arm – Hoover part number 43143046

Here's the picture of the part that probably needs to be replaced.

Step 1. Place your vacuum cleaner upside down with handle resting on the floor and brush roll housing resting on a work bench.
Remove 4 screws from rug plate and set rug plate aside.

Step 2.
Remove power drive belt, brush roll belt and brush roll.


Step 4.
Remove 6 screws as shown. Also remove duct hose cover and small plastic section that was under brush roll in upper left corner.


Step 5.
Place vacuum right side up on top of work bench with handle all the way back. Using a flat blade screwdriver; gently pry the top cover away from the bottom housing in the area shown by(#1) arrows. Leave the 2 adjustment knobs(#2) in place.


Step 6. If the self-propel adjustment cable HAS NOT broken away from the actuator arm, proceed as follows; mark the position of the cable(#1) in relation to the cable retainer with a black magic marker to avoid having to readjust the cable position. Remove the screw(#2) (usually a Torx T-25 size screw) and cable retainer. Next, using a flat blade screwdriver; slide the ‘C’ ring (#3) off the metal post. Bend the metal bracket up off the post just enough so you can lift the damaged actuator up and off the post. Slide your new actuator arm back over the metal post. Slide the ‘C’ ring back over the post.Lock the self- propel cable back in place with screw and retainer. Test to ensure the power drive is adjusted correctly; CAUTION, YOU ARE ABOUT TO COME VERY CLOSE TO MOVING MACHINERY, NO NECKTIES, NECKLACES, LOOSE SHIRT TAILS,UNACCOUNTED FOR TOOLS OR CLUMSY FINGERS ARE ALLOWED FOR THIS NEXT STEP!!! Reinstall the power drive belt, plug your vacuum cleaner back in and turn it on. Check to make sure the handle is in the neutral position; observe that the power drive is NOT moving. Push the handle slightly forward. You should see the power drive wheels move in the forward position. Pull the handle back, you should see the power drive wheels move in the reverse position. Some finer adjustment may be necessary.
If the power drive cable has broken away from the old actuator; just try to get the new actuator arm as straight as possible. Using the handle and while observing the cable moving back and forth through the retainer area; move the cable all the way forward, then pull it all the back, try to gauge where the middle of the forward and reverse position would be and lock the cable down. Perform testing procedure as in previous paragraph. Again, some fine readjustment may be necessary.


I hope that this was helpful. I'm am 99% sure that this will fix your problem, but if for any reason it doesn't, please feel free to use the Clarification Request Form here on Fixya, and explain why this didn't work. Please feel free to logon to our website, http://www.govacuum.com/ if you need any parts for your Windtunnel.
If you can't find a particular part, more then likely we have it, just feel free to give us a call.

If this repair was hepful to you please be sure to rate the repair as helpful by clicking the Thumbs Up Icons in the top right hand corner.

Thanks again,

Chris J.
GoVacuum

I just changed the actuator arm on my girlfriend's 6437-900 and it's pretty straight forward. Not certain how you got the transmission out, but here's what I did:
-unplug the vacuum
-remove the 4 screws and the plate over the roller brush as well as the roller brush
-remove the two screws and the plastic cover over the end of the hose on the right side.
-remove the 2 screws down in the bottom of the housing on either side of the drive wheels
-remove the single screw in the middle/bottom of the housing
-push the two tabs on the inside of the outer edge of the housing to remove the top cover
-flip the vacuum over, you'll see an "e" clip holding the actuator arm in place being careful not to lose it
-use a torx bit to remove the old cable hold down
-gently bend the metal piece over the arm back far enough to remove the old arm. Note the slot in the metal piece, you'll need to make sure you get the metal tab in the slot when you reassemble everything.
-put the new arm in, about $8 at a Hoover repair store
-put the metal piece over the rod that the e-clip fits into, making certain the tab and slot are aligned
-press down on the metal piece once it's on the rod with the tip of your screwdriver so it snaps in place, carefully put the e-clip back in it's slot on the rod.
-put the cover back on, lay the vacuum flat, put the cable end in it's channel on the arm, tighten the hold down.
-flip the vacuum over, plug it in and turn it on, being careful to keep hands, fingers, ties, hair, small children, pets, etc away from the spinning roller brush
-move the handle, still in the off position, up and down to make certain the drive wheels don't move. If they do then readjust the position of the cable on the end of the arm. The wheels should not move at all with the handle in the off position.
-enjoy

My dad fixed it by putting the spring under the arm lever and the roller on the outside part of the belt than in the inside as I have been trying to do.. I did however put one part of the spring in the right area of the vacuum. In a hole on the bottom area of the inside. The spring that is bent in a 90 degree angle doesn't go on top of the extend part of the arm lever but underneath. My dad did wounded the spring a bit tighter than it original is. That fixed what many days and hours of my frustration in less than 5 minutes (That's how long it approximately took my dad to fix it and in one try)

Take off the bottom plate, then there 2 screws on each side(from the bottom)Take the cover for the hose, There is a catch on each side from the bottom edge, use a flat blade and push in, the top will release. The actuator arm just has that e-clip holding it on.

To replace the cable, take off the top handle piece, pull out the old cable. The new one will slip in real easy, then slip the medal piece in the slot before pushing the cable all of the way in. Then attach it to the new actuator arm. This is where you would adjust the cable for forward and backward for the transmission.