What page can i go to to show me how to put tthe wires in my computer from my power supply

For the power cables from the Power Supply? Or Power Supply, and Front Panel header on the motherboard?

For both of these you need to state the computer manufacturer name, and Model Number.
Post back in a Comment.


If you just wish a generic, one-size-fits-all explanation;

A) 20 or 24-pin ATX main power cable.

The older computers use a 20-pin ATX main power cable. As computers needed more power to the motherboard, the 24-pin ATX main power cable was brought out,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

Scroll the page down for info on the 24-pin ATX main power cable.

[ Much older motherboards (AT) used two main power cables. { In the link - Original PC main power cables} ]


B) 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable.
Was brought out because Processors needed more power, than the 24-pin ATX main power cable feeding the motherboard, could deliver.

Power for the Processor,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atx12v4


C) 4-pin standard Peripheral power cable
Commonly misnomered as 'Molex'.

Molex was a model name given by the first manufacturer, of this design of power cable connector.
The name stuck. Kind of like referring to an adjustable open-end wrench as a Crescent wrench.

It is also referred to as a 4-pin Standard Peripheral power cable, because there are two styles of 4-pin Peripheral power cables.

4-pin Standard Peripheral power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#peripheral

Generally used for IDE (PATA) harddrives, and IDE optical drives.


4-pin Small Peripheral power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#floppy

Older computers used it for power to the Floppy Drive. It's generally used now to provide power for a Card Reader.

Note that both types of connectors use the same power wires, and 2 ground wires.
Yellow is 12 Volts
Red is 5 Volts
Black is Ground

[ Also, in the ATX main power cable:
Orange is 3.3 Volts, the Green wire is the Soft Power On wire. Abbreviated as PS_ON.

Power Supply plugged into power, the Soft Power On wire is briefly touched to ANY Ground wire. This is bypassing the Power On switch.
If the computer (Power Supply) comes on, you have a bad Power On switch.
IF the computer (Power Supply) does NOT come on, you have a bad Power Supply ]

(ALL Black wires are Ground wires. They all lead back to one central Ground point.
ALL power wires lead back to one point in the power supply, for EACH power wire.

The 12 Volt power wires, (Yellow), all lead back to one point in the Power Supply.
This is the 12 Volt power rail.

The 5 Volt power wires, (Red), all lead back to one point in the Power Supply.
This is the 5 Volt power rail.

The 3.3 Volt power wires, (Orange), all lead back to one point in the Power Supply.
This is the 3.3 Volt power rail ]

D) SATA power cable
15-pin power cable for SATA harddrives, and SATA optical drives,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#sata

[ The smaller 7-pin SATA connector is the interface cable, or data cable.

IF, you have a SATA harddrive that has a provision for a SATA power cable, AND a 4-pin standard Peripheral power cable, ONLY use the SATA power cable.

It will burn out the harddrive if you use both. It may not do it right away, but eventually it will.
I have had people state over the years, that they were using both power cables. Came back two months later to tell me their harddrives had burned out ]

More to follow in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

There are weak power supply caps in the power supple replace the power supply or just all the smaller caps in it but for sure any 1000uf and any that may not be perfectly flat or discolored on the top.

Suggest you start with checking the receptacle in the surge protector, that the Computer is plugged into.

I have had 3 surge protectors now that just THAT receptacle was bad.

"Hmmm, surge protector LED power on light is lit.
Monitor, printer, and router, plugged into the surge protector have power."
Plugging in a lamp into the receptacle in the surge protector, that the computer was plugged into, proved just THAT receptacle was bad.

Not an issue?

Then I suggest you check to see if the problem is the Power On switch, or the Power Supply.

The Power On switch is located inside the plastic Power On button.
This is an example of a generic ATX Power On switch,

http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html

The test is to use a jumper wire for the Soft Power On, and bypass the Power On switch.

If the Power Supply comes on, the problem is the Power On switch.
If the Power Supply does Not come on, the problem is the Power Supply.
Bad Power Supply.

Dell Support, and the Service Manual main page, for the Dimension E310,

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dim3100/en/sm/index.htm

If you click on Technical Overview, then on System Board Components, you'll be taken to this page,

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dim3100/en/sm/techov0.htm#wp1058089

Here you will see an illustration of your motherboard. This is a Top view. The view you will see when you open your computer case.
(Main menu - Removing the Computer Cover)

The number 9 points to the ATX main power connector on the motherboard.
Viewing closely you will count 24 socket holes.
12 on top, 12 on bottom.

This connector is a 24-pin ATX main power cable connector.

If you scroll down the page to the heading - Power Supply DC Connector Pin Assignments, and to the heading underneath - DC Power Connector P1, you will see the Dimension E310 has a 24-pin ATX main power cable.

This is a more in-depth view of a typical 24-pin ATX main power cable, and it's respective connector, plus a view of a typical 24-pin ATX main power cable connector, on a motherboard,
(Not a Dell Dimension E310),

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

The photo to the far Left, shows a 24-pin ATX main power cable connector, on a typical motherboard.
There is no 24-pin ATX main power cable plugged in.

The photo in the middle, shows a 24-pin ATX main power cable.

The photo to the far Right shows the 24-pin ATX main power cable plugged into the connector.

In the photo to the far Right you will see that one of the power wires has Green insulation.
This is the Soft Power On wire.
Also abbreviated as PS_ON

You will see many wires with Black insulation.
ALL of these wires are a Ground wire.

The jumper wire is connected to the Soft Power On wire, (Green), and to ANY Ground wire. (Black)

The method is to insert one end of a jumper wire, into the socket hole with the Green wire, and the other end into a socket hole with a Ground wire.
(ANY Ground wire)

Again looking at the photo to the far Right, you will see that the power wires go down into individual socket holes.
The insulation of the power wires goes down into the socket hole pretty far.

At the end of each power wire is a metal terminal. It is a female terminal.
This is what it looks like,

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=8630463

The jumper wire must go down into the socket hole, (Right next to the existing wire already in the socket hole), far enough to touch that metal terminal pin.

it has been suggested to use a paper clip.
The paper clip is straightened out, then bent into a U shape.
The center of the U shape is wrapped with black electrical tape.

The taped area is where you hold the 'jumper wire'
You may wish to wear a glove also.

The voltage is 5 Volts DC.
Two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC.

There may be a spark.
Hence I advised wearing a glove. Not so much for your safety, but for your peace of mind.

One end down into the socket hole with the Green wire, (Soft Power On), and the other end down into ANY socket hole with a Black (Ground) wire.

The contact period used is no longer than 2 seconds.

If the Power Supply comes on, you have a bad Power On switch.
If the Power Supply does Not come on, you have a bad Power Supply.

The Power Supply can come on, and still be bad. Weak voltage power rail.
Enough power to light LED lights, and perhaps spin fans, but not enough to turn the Processor on.

1) ALL of the LED lights combined, use less than 1 Watt of power.
2) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts
3) A typical Processor can use 51 to 125 Watts.

Post additional questions in a Comment.
Regards,
joecoolvette

you have to replace the power supply unit.

If my sources are correct, (Haven't worked on one in my shop yet), the eMachines T5212 desktop computer uses an Intel D101GGC2 motherboard.

The Intel D101GGC motherboard is Very similar,

http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/d101ggc/sb/CS-021718.htm

Motherboard Manual - left-click on English Product Guide [PDF], in blue.

Give a few seconds for the first page to come up, (Took 6 seconds for me), and for the PDF file to fully download, before looking through it. (Took 24 seconds for me)

1) Did you make sure the 24 -pin ATX main power cable, is plugged in tight?
Lock on the side is snapped in place?
Page 42.

Closer look at a 24-pin ATX main power cable, and it's respective connector,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24


2) Did you plug in the 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable?

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atx12v4

Page 42
That's power for the Intel Pentium D model 805 processor.

http://www.emachines.com/support/product_support.html?cat=Desktops&subcat=T%20Series&model=T5212

Are the cables (Wires) from the Front Panel of the computer, plugged in correctly into the Front Panel header on the motherboard?
Page 37

Are you sure the DDR2 Sdram ram memory module/s (Stick/s) are plugged in tight?

The best method is to remove it, or them, and reinstall.
This way you are assured.

Most of the time a ram memory module, or more than one, will be bumped loose when installing a Power Supply.

Suggest the Power Supply took a 'hit' from the storm. Hopefully this is all that received the power surge.

Surge protectors are a necessary item, but in reality it takes an Expensive surge protector, for defense against a lightning storm, and even that isn't a sure bet.
(Lightning strikes can produce over a Million volts)

Also, I have had three surge protectors where just THAT receptacle was bad.

"Hmmmm, surge protector power on LED is lit. Printer has power, monitor has power, and router has power. Surge protector must be good."

NOT.
Just THE receptacle the computer was plugged into was bad.

Past this test, I would suggest diagnosing the Power Supply.

A) Test the Power Supply voltages

B) Use a KNOWN to be Good, Compatible power supply, for a test unit.

C) Buy a power supply, and replace it.
Granted, not a professional approach, and could result in a waste of money.
Some do approach repair in this manner, however.

Going backwards.

C) The Gateway 504GR desktop computer uses an ATX style of power supply, and is rated at a maximum Wattage rating of 300 Watts.

(ATX case is approximately 6 inches Long, 6 inches Wide, and 3-1/2 inches Tall)

Gateway Support > 504GR desktop computer > Support Documents main page,

http://support.gateway.com/s/PC/R/3724/4365nv.shtml

If you Left-click on - Components, you will see a list of components used in the 504GR.
Scroll down to the heading - Power Supplies

Left-click on the blue -
102015 - 300 Watt Power Supply, heading.

It's just a generic ATX power supply with a,

1) 24-pin ATX main power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

2) 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atx12v4

[ Power for the Intel Pentium 4 processor. Plugs into the motherboard ]

3) (1) SATA power cable

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#sata

[Power for the SATA harddrive ]

4) At least two 4-pin Peripheral power cables,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#peripheral

[Power for the CD drive, and the DVD drive ]

This is just one example of a decent, reliable, economical Power Supply, that will fit the bill,

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1389575&CatId=1078

B) The above explains the minimum Wattage needed for the test unit, the size, and shape of the case, and the needed power cables, in case there is a power supply around to use for a test unit.

(Some have an older unused computer sitting in a closet, or what have you. The computer can be temporarily cannibalized for the power supply)

1) That SMPS (Switched-Mode Power Supply) puts out three DC voltages.

A) 3.3 Volts
B) 5 Volts
C) 12 Volts

(Two C cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC)

The test is done for the 12 Volt power rail.
ALL Yellow wires in the various power cables, are 12 Volt wires.
They all go back to one 12 Volt power rail inside the Power Supply.

[Orange insulated wires are 3.3 Volts.
Red wires are 5 Volts ]

11 to 13 Volts indicates a good Power Supply.
Less than 11 Volts means it's time to replace.

You can use a multimeter to check the 12 Volt power rail, or a power supply tester.
One example of a power supply tester,

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5250576&CatId=5471

An economical multimeter good enough for this test, can be purchased from $5 to $12.

The Power Supply is unplugged from power.
The Positive (Red) probe lead of the multimeter, is connected to ANY Yellow wire.

The Negative (Black) probe lead is connected to ANY Black wire.

(ALL Black wires are Ground wires. They all go back to one central Ground source inside the PSU.

{Power Supply Unit. Another term for Power Supply. Also another term for the SMPS, used in personal computers)

To reply just Left-click on Comment. (Believe upper right of your page )

This indicates there is a problem with the Power Supply.
You have a weak voltage power rail.
Components inside the power supply have failed.

Most of the time this due to the power supply, as well as the inside of the computer is dirty.
The rest of the time it is due to a cheap quality power supply from the computer manufacturer.

You can be the best housekeeper in the world, but inevitably dust, dirt, and other material is drawn into your computer.
Your computer uses air to cool the hardware components inside.

Air is drawn in through the front of the Pavilion a730n, and is exhausted out of the back.
(There is one computer case fan in the back, and the Power Supply fan also helps)
This is the computer's Cooling System.

The cooling system for the Power Supply is a fan on the back of the unit, and Heatsinks that are inside.

(A Heatsink is a small plate of metal, with tall fins on it. The Heatsink works as a small radiator. Heat is absorbed up through the fins. Air is drawn through the fins, and heat is pushed away by the air)

When the fan blades, center hub, and surrounding cage become clogged with the above mentioned material, the cooling capacity drops tremendously.
Same thing for the Heatsink fins when they become clogged.

Heat = Wasted Energy
The Power Supply strains to keep up with the power load that is needed, and the additional loss of energy, (Power), that is lost due to heat.

Eventually components inside the Power Supply fail.

Commonly it is the Electrolytic Capacitors that fail first.

Computer manufacturer's commonly use cheap quality Power Supply's. They buy them from a Power Supply manufacturer.
Cheap quality = the computer manufacturer saving money, because the unit's cost them less.

1) Cheap Electrolytic Capacitors
2) Too small of a gauge of wiring is used
3) Cheap quality Rectifier Bridge
4) Cheap MOSFET's
The list goes on.

Solution is to replace the Power Supply.
Power Supply's come in many sizes, and power designations.

The HP Pavilion a730n uses the common size, and shape of Power Supply, used in 90 percent of personal computers. ATX

The power designation is 300 Watt.
Usually it is a Bestec, Delta, or HiPro power supply that is used.
C-H-E-A-P!

Based on personal experience, I would recommend this power supply for a replacement unit,

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4675269&CatId=1078

Not an advertisement for said website. You may find a better price by searching.

Know this:
A computer only uses the power it needs, and no more.
Example:
You could install a 1000 Watt power supply in your computer, (Not actually. It will not fit), and if your computer only needs 100 Watts,
it only uses 100 Watts.

(Typically surfing the internet uses 100 Watts. Same as a 100 Watt light bulb)

This is HP Support, Pavilion a730n, and the Manuals page,

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/manualCategory?lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&product=431078&lang=en&

On this page you can download the Part Replacement Instructions manual.
Has large illustrations, to show how to replace parts inside the Pavilion a730n Desktop PC.

Power Supply replacement is shown.

From me:
If this is your first time in replacing a computer hardware component, this may seem like a daunting task. Once you are finished you'll realize it wasn't all that tough.

Inside your computer you'll see many cables, (Wires)
You'll see cables coming from the Power Supply, that go to the various hardware components inside.
(Motherboard, Harddrive, and CD/DVD drive/s)

Power cables from Power Supply
1) You have a cable with many wires in it. It has a white connector on the end, and is long in shape.
It has 24 socket holes.
It's a 24-pin ATX main power cable.

Connects to the motherboard. To release it from the motherboard, there is a lock tab on the side of the connector. Press the lock tab at the top. This pivots the lock tab, and draws a hooked end, out of the side of the motherboard connector.

Gently wiggle the connector side to side, while depressing the lock tab, ease it up.
(Side to side lengthwise)


2) You have 4-pin Peripheral power cables. (Also referred to as Molex)
White in color, 4 wires. (Red, Yellow, and two Black)

One to each CD/DVD drive you have.

3) You have One SATA power cable. Connects to the SATA Harddrive

4) You have One 4-pin ATX +12 power cable. The connector is square in shape.
Has two Yellow wires, and two Black wires.

This power cable is for power to your Intel Pentium 4 processor, and Must be plugged in.
Plugs into the motherboard.

This link shows the various power cables, and connectors, that I listed above.
(Large photos, and clear information)

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html

(Scroll the page down, to view all of the power cable connectors. Click on a photo of a connector, to view more information about it)

Should you need more information, just click on Comment, and type it out. (Believe top right of your page)

Anytime you see a Green wire in a computer, (Personal Computer), power supply's ->power cable, it is for the Soft Power On function.
This way there isn't a cable, (Cord), going from the Power On switch to the power supply.
These are ATX style of power supply's.

The Black insulated wires are Ground wires. ALL of them.

There was a older power supply made, and this was the AT style.

To provide a solution, I'm going to give you some information on the power cables, for Both of these styles of power supply's, then some advice.

1.This is info, and photos of the older AT power supply's power cables,
http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#oldpc

2.This is the newer ATX style power cable, and more specifically the 20-pin version,
http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20
Scroll down the page to view the 24-pin power cable, and then scroll down some more, to view the 20+4-pin power cable.

ALL ATX design power supply's use Pin 16 for PS ON, (Soft Power On), which is a Green wire, and ANY Black wire. ALL Black wires are a ground. Pin 15 has a Black wire, and is normally used to put a jumper in, from it to Pin 15. This turns the power supply on. There will be a small spark, and the chance of getting shocked.

What you are doing essentially, is using a personal computer power supply as a laboratory power source, therefore I cannot advise you further, as it is a Safety Hazard.

This indicates power supply failure. PSU means Power Supply Unit.

Solution?
Replace the power supply.
MAKE SURE it is a compatible one!

What do I mean by that statement? In some years of Dell manufacturing, Dell made their computers "Proprietary".
This means only Dell parts could be used in a Dell computer.

The wires in the 20/24-pin ATX main (Motherboard) power cable, were put in different socket holes, than a standard 20/24-pin main power cable.
Yellow is 12 volts. Orange is 3.3 volts. Red is 5 volts. Black wires are Ground wires.

If an aftermarket power supply made by another manufacturer, were to be used in these type of computers, it will burn out the motherboard! Possibly the ram memory and processor also!

If you buy an aftermarket power supply, instead of a Dell unit, make SURE the colors of the wires are in the same place, as they are in the Dell 20/24-pin main power cable connector!

For more info about that last statement, I suggest you check out this page,
http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html

The only solution that I have found, due to having same problem, is that original power supply is too low at 1.5 watts. 3 things to try.
1 - purchase another similar external hard drive and use its power supply. (I bought a Maxtor Driive with same plug at 2.0 watts)
2 - purchase power supply from radio shack with higher watts. take drive in with you for tech to match it up.
3 - Remove the Hard Drive from tthe case and connect to a PC as a slave Hard drive.

Any option may or may not work, but worth the try when invaluable data is on your drive.