Hey gunsmoke55,
Let’s collect some info. and I will try to help. I own the FAV6800A the LED flavor of the machine and as you can tell from my nick name I DIY all repairs on the machine.
1. Did your FAV9800A signal an unbalance statement to the display to trigger the clutch replacement?
2. How badly rusted up was the One-Way Roller clutches bearing? Did you follow my clutch maintenance/repair post to replace your new clutch? Clutch Fix Post .
3. When you removed the original clutch did your series of the machine use the Upper One-Way Roller clutches bearing ring? From pulling info. from other FAV6800A owners I have been able to confirm series 10 and 11 used the Upper One-Way Roller clutches bearing ring. Info from FAV9800A owners is very lean. What is your series of machine (the first two digits of your serial number) and did it use the Upper One-Way Roller clutches bearing ring?
4. You should be able to rotate the wash basket with one finger CCW with very little resistance. Try that and let me know if the wash basket will rotate CCW with one finger . The wash basket must not rotate CW by hand. With the front cover removed (pull the 120VAC power cord) you should be able to rotate the Clutch Pulley CCW and CW with light resistance.
“”I just replaced (new) the clutch on my FAV9800AWW, and machine goes through most of regular cycle, but at some point (reverse or tumble?), it tries to do something between the motor and clutch and the belt just squeals very loudly and burns. Ideas? SW””
If you machine used the Upper One-Way Roller clutches bearing ring it may not be seated in the wash tub base properly. It is a very tricky fitment process to re-install it and the Clutch Pulley assembly correctly. Let me know what you find and we will go from there.
Some insight into normal operation of the machine you may be aware of this; In the wash/agitate cycle the Control Board signals the Motor Control board to power the Motor CW turning the Clutch Pulley CW driving the agitator shaft which drives the transmission to rotate the tumblers only.
In a Spin Only cycle or the Spin Cycle of a Wash Cycle the Control Board signals the Motor Control board to power the Motor CCW turning the Clutch Pulley CCW. The One-Way Roller clutches lock up solid driving the Spinner assembly CCW spinning the wash basket CCW. When the One-Way Roller clutches do not lock up rock solid and slip you get tumbler movement as the wash basket begins to spin up. This causes the wash basket load to go off balance and if the TDS is working properly it’s signal input to the Control Board exceeds design limits of Outer Tub movement and the Control Board fails the Spin Cycle wit a dC or uC unbalance error or in your case an unbalance statement to the LCD display.
Also during the initial water fill cycle of the wash cycle the Control Board will signal the Motor Control Board to power the wash basket CCW slow RPM. I believe the Maytag design team did this to wet the wash basket load on initial water fill…..Rich 
Upper One-Way Roller clutches bearing ring
Testimonial: "Great stuff - Starts at the beginning and explains in clear language. Hopefult o finish tyhe job with his advice. "
I’m tearing a series 10 apart just for the experience. You have to remove the tub I see no other way to break loose the Spinner Nut.
Follow the manual and it will get you there.
I removed the tumblers #20 Torx
The panels the tumblers ride in #20 Torx also.
The four transmission bolts/tranny came out OK
The Wash Basket tub is mounted with 6 self tapers to the Spinner Plate and they were corroded in. I could no break loose with a socket wrench.
Broke out 3/8 inch impact wrench no go.
Broke out ½ inch impact and #3 bolt snapped off 1,2,4.5.6 came out OK.
Should have broke out some Liquid Wrench.
So be careful. I going to try and easy-out that stud from the Spinner Plate.
The Spinner Nut is 1.75. I picked up socket today and will try to impact it off so I can at least take a look at driving out the outer tub bearings.
See this post http://www.fixya.com/support/t3961902-ma... for the Spinner Nut locking ring and bar to lock the Spinner nut and turn the Spinner support out of the nut. Call the vendor to confirm the cost and availability. See this post to confirm the bearings needed. post by maj7th
I have to cut my comments off I’m at lunch break at work will check back in when I get back home 01:30am East Coast
I will keep ya posted on the task…..Rich .
Gunsmoke,
Something is binding, with that clutch pulley install. When you put it back together again check by hand that you can rotate the Clutch Pulley CCW and CW. The Upper One-Way Roller clutch bearing makes the fitment of the Clutch pulley assembly a little more challenging. But that’s why a repair company get $300 to $450 for a clutch replacement install. You owe yourself a couple of cold ones.
OK removal of the Spinner Plate Assembly. I have mine out of my practice Series 10 machine. I feel you need to remove the Outer Tub to break loose that 1 3/4 Spinner Nut. No way to remove the Spinner Assembly. I removed my Outer Tub and broke loose the 1 3/4 Spinner Nut with my ½” air impact tool.
Don’t do like I did put a pillow on the deck to break the fall of the Spinner Assembly to earth. I would hate to buy the tool also but for reinstall and not over Torque is the problem. I see no way right now to lock the Spinner Plate while you torque down the Spinner Nut.
When you get the Spinner plate out take a look at those Outer Tub bearings. I’m not sure how I’m going to get them punched out to replace......****
gunsmoke55
I think you may need the Spinner Nut tool so as to not Over Torque the Spinner Nut on reassembly. I see no way to lock the Spinner plate from inside the tub.
Bottom of Wash Tub showing 1.75 Spinner nut CCW to remove with air impact tool.
Pic = 1.75 Spinner Nut
Once you have the Spinner Assembly you can pry out the Tub Seal...... Chester :)
One note this Outer Tub is from my spare Series 10 FAV6800A......Rich
In wash/agitate CW direction the clutch pulley the Agitator CW that shaft runs in roller needle bearings at the clutch pulley ened of the agitator shaft. The upper splined end runs in a bushing. You have everything apart verify the agitator shaft rotates freely in the spinner assembly. The Spinner Assembly in Spin direction CW turns in the outer tub bearings.
See if you can rotate the transmission gears they shoul rotate with stiff resistance. I was thiking that the Upper One-Way Roller Clutches bearing ring was not seated properly causing Clutch Pulley Binding in wash/agitate CW direction of clutch pulley spin.
Once everything is back together give it a try. With the upper bearing ring clutch pulley fitment is very tricky at least for me.
How do those outer tub bearings look?
good job letting those spinner bolts soak I was in a hurry. I have a complete spinner assembly new in the box a $40 ebay purchase along with some other goodies but I will easy out the broken stud maybe even tap all the spinner bolt holes. This machine is my test bed machine. Good luck and great work!
You are now an expert Maytag repair man!
Oops ""The Spinner Assembly in Spin direction CW turns in the outer tub bearings.""
Should say The Spinner Assembly in Spin direction CWW turns in the outer tub bearings.
Got to stop these post at 3am in the morning....my head hurts....:)
Let me know how those Spinner Plate bolts come out......Rich
Just this vendo so far this tool
I wonder if a local repair shop might let you borrow.
How are you going to pound out the Spinner Support od did you drive it out. Did you impact of the 1.75 Spinner Nut?
gunsmoke55
I ordered these Outer Tub Bearings from ebay
6207-2RS PREMIUM BEARINGS 35 X 72 X 17 6207RS THE BEST
Item# 390145686042
$11.91 delivered to the house.
Se thi link for my work so far; http://www.fixya.com/support/t3973659-fa...
Rich
Rich
""The upper splined end runs in a bushing. You have everything apart verify the agitator shaft rotates freely in the spinner assembly. ""
I was wrong the upper splined end runs in roller beaing.....Rich
gunsmoke55
Take a look at this post /http://www.fixya.com/support/t3973659-fa...
Try posting at that link with your question and see if he will respond with his bearing removal and insertion process. Maybe he will share how he removed and installed his new 6207-RS bearings.
I was going to put together a home brew tool like you have seen to press them in or just try a careful tap in with my 2.5 lb hammer and some PVC pipe sized to the diameter of the Outer Tub bearings. Maybe a repair person might chime in with a suggestion. What ever you do be careful that you don’t damage/crack the outer tub when driving out the bearings. I slipped with a hammer blow and have a slight crack at mid tub level. I will fiberglass patch that up.
I picked up these bearings on EBAY http://cgi.ebay.com/2-6207-2RS-BEARINGS-... I got them in a few days.
gunsmoke55
The tools I used to punch out the 6207 DU original outer tub bearings. I placed a couple of old throw rugs to cushing the bottom of the wash tub while pounding out that bearing. Just take care not to miss with your hammer strikes. Watch the motor mounts while working on this. 
Upper bearing is easy just flip inner tub over and work around the bearing with hammer taps. Pre-lube the outer race/bearing hub in the tub with pentrating fluid to ease the extraction process
As I said I'm not sure how I'm going to press in/tap in those replacement 6207-RS bearings.
Close up of upper 6207-DU bearing removed.
“”So the top bearing (the one that fits around the base of
the spinner support) come out upward, into the tub, like the tub seal, right?
And then the bottom one comes out downward, like out the bottom of the tub,
right?””
That is correct. I
flipped tub up side down to drive out the inner most bearing that faces the
top of the Spinner plate.
You can move/offset the spacer between the two bearings this
allowed me to take a large screw driver and start taping around the bearing
race to drive out the upper bearing. You
are going to ding up the bearing but once I got it started I took the long 3/8”
socket extension and continued taping around the bearing race to work it
out.
When that bearing fell thru the spacer will fall out also. I then
flipped the tub over on four layers of carpeting and used a piece of 1.5” * 2.5’
PVC pipe (that’s all I had) and hammered out the bottom bearing. Just be careful with the hammer blows that
you don’t glance off the PVC pipe and strike the tub. This a bit of a pain becaues you working inside of the tub. Try to
have someone steady the tub while you tap out the lower tub bearing.
Be careful of the external motor mounts on the tub. Take it slow and easy and you will get the
bearings out. I’m working on my bearing
insertion tool. I going to check on the
cost of having a local Amish machine shop turn me down a shaft with a 35MM dia and
a couple of inches of thread on each end.
If the cost is not reasonable I’ll try to drive/tap them in……Rich
Great Work Steve!
. “”How loose is that spacer supposed to be?”” I haven’t replaced bearings yet I broke off a Spinner Bolt. On removal of the Spinner Assembly that spacer was floating in the cavity between the two bearings as you probably found when you remove the Spinner Assembly.
“”. Each load is about 50/50 that it will run through without having to stop and redistribute the load - sigh.
“”
Did you clean up the Clutch Pulley and Upper Bearing ring Clutch One-Way roller clutch bearings prior to reassembly? I think they may be sticky and slipping not locking up in CCW/Spin direction.
Hate to say this but I would drop the clutch out and try the One-Way Roller clutch test I placed at the end of my Clutch Fix Post . Try the test to check for One-Way Roller Clutches not locking up solid in CCW/Spin direction at the end of that post, See if roller clutches slip in CCW rotation of the bearing plate around the Spinner Shaft Coupler. If they do this will cause agitator shaft rotation during Wash Basket spin up causing some tumbler movement and unbalance the wash basket dang dC/uC errors.
They may look clean but give them a wash in WD-40 and some light bearing grease or Slick 50 One Lube I’ll by ya a beer if that doesn’t fix the issue.
Did you use this tool for locking the Spinner Nut? If it wasn’t can you let me know what/where you picked the tool?
So the original 6207DU bearings or at least one was rusted/seized up?
Thank you for all your feedback it’s great info for all us FAV6800A/FAV9800A DIY owners. You are a Maytag Expert/GURU in my eyes I’m still a newb…….Have a Great Maytag day…….Rich
Thank you for all your feedback it’s great info for all us FAV6800A/FAV9800A DIY owners. You are a Maytag Expert/GURU in my eyes I’m still a newb…….Have a Great Maytag day…….Rich
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"" it goes off balance in the reverse cylce. I just put a new clutch in. ""
Is that the Spin Cycle? Wash basket is rotating CCW is that correct?
Did you follow this post for the Clutch replacement?
I
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Thank you much!
1. Oh yes - lots of times. Kinda knew it was the clutch.
2. Rusted solid! There is a leak above - so I'll need your help there too.
Yes - Clutch Fix Post was spot-on.
3. Yes, my series is 10 and it has the Upper One-Way Roller clutches bearing ring.
4. Tub rotates fine and stops fine, but clutch pulley will only turn in the tub-spin direction. Other direction stops tight. Seems like I must have clutch in right because it has the prescribed 1/8" gap and tabs on upper bearing seem to fit in tub body fine.
5. Now to leak though - have machine tore down to spinner - Can I replace seals without removing tub and buying that wrench and spinner support nut tool?
Gnsmk55
Rich - Thank you so much for the tips and pics. I took off the clutch and am letting the spinner bolts soak in Rust Buster, hoping they'll come loose tomorrow.
In the meantime, I'll start the tub removal process. Looking at the (new) clutch again, it seems to me that it is OK, but when it's on the spinner shaft, I can't turn the pulley in "agitate" direction.
Could it be that the spinner assembly is ruined by rust? Does it have moving parts or is it one solid unit?
Pretty frustrating to be so close, yet so far...
Rich-All,
Soaking them bolts in Rust Buster and using an electric impact wrench worked like a charm. Now I'm struggling to get the spinner support out. That whole unit is rusted solid.
Anybody know where I can get those removal tools for a reasonable price? - Gunsmoke55
Rich-All,
Soaking them bolts in Rust Buster and using an electric impact wrench worked like a charm. Now I'm struggling to get the spinner support out. That whole unit is rusted solid.
Anybody know where I can get those removal tools for a reasonable price? - Gunsmoke55
Rich-All,
Soaking them bolts in Rust Buster and using an electric impact wrench worked like a charm. Now I'm struggling to get the spinner support out. That whole unit is rusted solid.
Anybody know where I can get those removal tools for a reasonable price? - Gunsmoke55
Rich - You are on the money! Ordered the wrench and nut removal tool, and asked my local guy if he could find a set to borrow - I'm covered - LOL.
Thanks for the pics on your project - really helps to see what I have in store.
Gnsmk
Rich - You are on the money! Ordered the wrench and nut removal tool, and asked my local guy if he could find a set to borrow - I'm covered - LOL.
Thanks for the pics on your project - really helps to see what I have in store.
Gnsmk
People: The 2 week project that tested mens souls is done. All is back together and humming like a sewing machine. That spinner support was rusted/welded shut like you wouldnt believe. It took every bit of that 20-inch specialty wrench to bust it loose.
I did get some unbalance errors - but redistributing the clothes worked. If it's something else electronic, I can figure that out later.
Thank you again to everyone for all the help and encouragement. Cheers!
Steve
Anyone still here?
Well, it looks like I'll need to take everything back apart and replace the outer tub bearings. I've looked everywhere and do not find a bearing puller/press-in tool for the FAV9800 - top loader. (I read the post about the home brew tool, but that also looks like it is for the front-loader.)
Suggestions?
Anyone still here?
Well, it looks like I'll need to take everything back apart and replace the outer tub bearings. I've looked everywhere and do not find a bearing puller/press-in tool for the FAV9800 - top loader. (I read the post about the home brew tool, but that also looks like it is for the front-loader.)
Suggestions?
Anyone still here?
Well, it looks like I'll need to take everything back apart and replace the outer tub bearings. I've looked everywhere and do not find a bearing puller/press-in tool for the FAV9800 - top loader. (I read the post about the home brew tool, but that also looks like it is for the front-loader.)
Suggestions?
Thanks so much. I will post at that other site and see what shows up. Otherwise, careful hammering might have to do. I'm also considering building a custom "homebrew" extractor/presser that would just need to have larger "cups" at each end to accommodate the FAV9800 tub dimensions. Once this ordeal is over, I'll share tales of woe or maybe some tips on how to win the battle. One thing I've learned already: Spinning the bearings by hand does NOT a good test make - LOL.
So the top bearing (the one that fits around the base of the spinner support) come out upward, into the tub, like the tub seal, right? And then the bottom one comes out downward, like out the bottom of the tub, right?
So I assume you have to get the top one out first, but how to get at it??? Maybe I'm going about it wrong?
Rich,
Once again you've come through with all the right information. Things went exactly as you describe, and I was able to extract the bearings with no damages to me or the tub - ha. So from all of us Neptune Newbies - thank you very much
I just took my time tapping in the new bearing set. It is important to get that spacer centered perfectly so the spinner support shaft will slide all the way through. Mine was off just a little, but got it back in line with the handle of a screwdriver and some tapping. How loose is that spacer supposed to be? I got it pretty snug - can just move it with that handle.
Anyhoo, I got everything back together (new tub seal is important too), and the machine runs OK, but still having the unbalance problem. Each load is about 50/50 that it will run through without having to stop and redistribute the load - sigh.
Rich,
I sure will give that a try. And glad to buy you that beer no matter what - you've been a huge help.
I also need to run that motor control board test - not that its doing anything that wierd, just curious.
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