Question about Frigidaire Gallery GLEFM397DS Electric Kitchen Range

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I have a frigidaire model # FEF336BGDD smoothtop range- electric. oven stopped heating up, if i put on broil i feel a small amount of heat but i don't think i could even burn myself it's so low. what can this be?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool oven that does not broil

Nabril, looks like you have a thermal fuse in the broil circuit. Take your meter and on the control board go to connector P2-2, should be a blue wire. Pull the connector off and see if you have continuity from the blue wire to the red wire on the terminal block (where the cord connects) power off, wires off. If you don't have continuity, it's probably that fuse. If you do, the only other thing I would think it could be would be the relay itself. The schematic does not show the placement of this fuse. It could be on the back panel or under the main top. Check out the pic. Part number..3196548 Catriver..post back.

Posted on Apr 21, 2007

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BNewberry
  • 93 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire Smooth Top Range/Oven stopped working

Computer is cooked. Sorry to tell you.
I am a factory servicer for Electrolux / Frigidaire
I replace tons of those clock controls. They shouldn't be $160 though

Any questions about these stoves send me and email.
I will be glad to help you out.
Thanks

Posted on May 23, 2008

  • 117 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire Electric Smoothtop Range......getting F 1 error on digital display

F0 & F1 EOC (Electronic Oven Control) failure Replace EOC (Electronic Oven Control)

Posted on Aug 02, 2008

  • 112 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire Smooth Top Range/Oven stopped working

Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Cheers
Dave

Posted on Dec 28, 2008

jumptrout51
  • 3361 Answers

SOURCE: whenI try to bake or broil--get error msg. F13

Unplug the oven.
Wait 30 seconds and plug it back in.
If the code reappears you must replace the EOC.9electronic clock).

Posted on Mar 04, 2009

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