Replacing flush valve on two piece toilet. replacing 3 bolt gasket (gp51487) Bolt enters from tank, but rubber stem on gasket seems to stick up quite a bit. Does it just compress down to bottom of tank when tightened? Also, at the other end of bolt, use rubber washer, then metal then wing nut in that order? Is there a picture somewhere?

Hello David McInnis,

There are Three basic opportunities for leaks from the classic TOILET TANK DESIGN (separate BASE & top-tank)... around the FLAPPER VALVE alone... Typically the flapper valve & two hold-down screws. These CANNOT be repaired without removing the entire tank. GREAT CARE should be used to not FRACTURE
the mated surfaces by OVER-TIGHTENING.

This is a great time to FRESHEN UP all the
Perishable gaskets & seals... and while I NEVER advocate using any ABRASIVES on gloss finishes... Pumas stone seems to be the FINAL TOUCH in a total renewal
(to REMOVE the built up (very unsightly
TOILET BOWL RING...

Amazon com toilet bowl pumice stone

ADDITIONAL PARTS:
- Water fitting to FILL VALVE (compression fitting).
- FILL VALVE through tank (gaskets)
- Flapper Valve base, gaskets & bowl interface ring

TO Make sure all the surfaces are clean an firmly
positioned and it is not LEAKING anywhere... place
clean dry paper on the floor behind the bowl
(under the tank).

EACH/EVERY drop will leave a mark...
Do NOT over-tighten any fittings!!!

If the WALL VALVE is less than NIMBLE... also a great opportunity to UPGRADE TO A QUARTER TURN
BALL VALVE... A little shopping will find you EXACT VALVE CONFIGURATION...

Hope this helps.

LASCO 04 3809 Toilet Tank To Bowl Bolt Kit Brass Bolts with Washers Hex...

Fluidmaster 6106 2 3 4 Inch Tank to Bowl with Three Bolts and Gasket...

BrassCraft G2CR19X C1 1 2 in NOM Comp Inlet 3 8 in OD Compression Outlet...

Kohler 1068031 Fill Valve Flush Valves Amazon com

Getting them off can be a real pain when they're corroded. Turn the nut under the tank and try holding the bolt head inside, it it spins or just strips, you will have to use a hacksaw blade between the tank and the bowl to cut them off. One word of caution, when you put in the new ones a rubber gasket goes in under the washer bolt head above and under the washer from below as well. If you only put one inside the tank, it won't leak, but you could crack the tank when you tighten it up. Also you should replace the flush valve gasket at the same time.

You need to replace the tank to bowl nuts, washers, and gaskets as well as the flush valve gasket. One word of caution. When installing the new bolts to hold the tank in, place a rubber gasket under the washer inside the tank, and also one on each bolt under the washer underneath the tank. If you omit the one under the tank you may end up cracking the tank when you tighten it down.

Go to a plumbing supply house and get 2 or 3 bolts, 2 or 3 rubber sleeves for the bolts, and a new rubber gasket to go between the tank and toilet. Turn the supply water off, sorry, but, you don't know how many people don't do that. Disconnect the supply line from the tank. Flush the toilet, to remove water from the tank. Unbolt the tank. On the back underside of the toilet, you have 2 or 3 nuts to remove, depending on the toilet. Lift off the tank. Turn over the tank and set it on a towel. Now, gently tap down the bolts. Turn tank over and pull out the bolts. Turn tank back over and remove the tank and bolt gaskets, just push them in. Turn tank over. push in the new gaskets. Replace tank gasket, and gently tap down new bolts. Remount the tank. tighten the nuts, be careful, always tighten the nuts about the same. never tighten one all the way, and then another. YOU can crack the tank when tightening. Just nice and snug. Re hook the water supply, and turn on. Always check for leaks. If dripping, just tighten a little more. Just remember to tighten the all the nuts a little at a time. Keeping the tank level when tightening.

If the black cap you are referring to is a tank bolt, then follow the instructions as follow:

If you cannot tighten them, then they will need to be replaced. Turn off the water supply valve, flush the toilet and bail out as much residual water as possible. Remove the old bolts and separate the tank from the bowl. Replace the old tank gasket and refasten the tank with new bolts, properly placing rubber washers symetrically. An added precaution that I use is (after drying the inside of the tank well) is applying a dab of clear elastomeric sealant to the top of each bolt head, working it past the edges of the bolt heads onto the tank. Allow the sealant to cure as per directions. Open the supply valve slowly and allow the tank to fill. Inspect the tank bolt holes for leaks

If the black cap that you are referring to is a tank bolt:

If you cannot tighten them, then they will need to be replaced. Turn off the water supply valve, flush the toilet and bail out as much residual water as possible. Remove the old bolts and separate the tank from the bowl. Replace the old tank gasket and refasten the tank with new bolts, properly placing rubber washers symetrically. An added precaution that I use is (after drying the inside of the tank well) is applying a dab of clear elastomeric sealant to the top of each bolt head, working it past the edges of the bolt heads onto the tank. Allow the sealant to cure as per directions. Open the supply valve slowly and allow the tank to fill. Inspect the tank bolt holes for leaks

If you cannot tighten them, then they will need to be replaced. Turn off the water supply valve, flush the toilet and bail out as much residual water as possible. Remove the old bolts and separate the tank from the bowl. Replace the old tank gasket and refasten the tank with new bolts, properly placing rubber washers symetrically. An added precaution that I use is (after drying the inside of the tank well) is applying a dab of clear elastomeric sealant to the top of each bolt head, working it past the edges of the bolt heads onto the tank. Allow the sealant to cure as per directions. Open the supply valve slowly and allow the tank to fill. Inspect the tank bolt holes for leaks.

You will need to replace or repair with new gaskets your flush valve mechanism. "To do that you need to take the tank apart from the bowl. Have new toilet bolts and flush valve or flush valve gaskets at the ready when you take the tank off. (you will also have to unhook the fill valve when you take the tank off.) Another possibility would be a cracked tank that is causing the leak in that area but that is rare.

Yes, it seems the folks who wrote the instructions have never actually done any plumbing.

first place a rubber washer on the bolt, then put it through the hole in the tank. Then place another rubber washer on the bolt, followed by a metal washer and a nut. Tighten the nut, not the bolt.
Using a screwdriver hold the bolt in place, and tighten the nut until snug and the rubber washers are compressed slightly.

Follow this step with all the "tank to bowl" bolts.

Now the bolts are tight to the tank and will not leak water.

Then place the large rubber gasket over the flush valve hole on the bottom of the tank. and set the tank on the bowl with the bolts through the bowls holes.

Place a metal washer on the bolt, and then a nut.

Tighten each nut equally until the tank has no wobble.

The Gerber Ultra Flush Back Outlet toilet, that uses 1.1 Gallons of water to flush?

Just like any common toilet. Install the tank to the bowl of the toilet, set the toilet, install the flush mechanism in the tank, attach the supply line.

1.MAKE SURE you put the two plastic U-shaped spacers on the back of the bowl!
2.Install the round rubber gasket in-between the tank and the bowl.
3.Set the tank down on the bowl. Make sure you have the round gaskets that go up under the bolt heads, then insert the two bolts into the tank, and through the bowl. NOT installing these will cause a leak!

Tighten these bolts down, until the nuts are JUST touching the tank. (There is a flat washer that goes under each nut)
DO NOT tighten one bolt all the way, then tighten the other bolt!!
These bolts MUST be tightened evenly. Tighten one turn on one bolt, then go to the other bolt.
DO NOT overtighten, or you will break the bowl, and/or the tank!

Make sure your toilet flange on the sewer pipe is in good repair, and clean, from the old beeswax ring. It can be messy, even using gloves. Use a flat painters stick to help remove the old wax ring. Scrape off into a old can. The wax thin residue on the floor and flange is fine.
Set the new wax ring in place, remove the plastic liner that comes with the ring. DO NOT leave that thin plastic liner! It's just to install that wax ring!

Install the bolts that hold the bowl to the floor, or reuse the old bolts if they are in good repair.
Tighten EVENLY, and don't overtighten! You can crack the bowl.

Now install the toilet mechanism in the tank.
Here is a 1 Page, Tank to Bowl Installation Guide from Gerber. It is a PDF file. Let it download ALL the way before looking at it.
http://gerberonline.com/fileLib/Toilets%20Ultra%20Flush%20IS.pdf

Should this direct link not work for you, here is the page it came from,
http://www.gerberonline.com/Catalog.aspx?categoryID=2204&itemID=3514

It's on the right side -> Installation Instruction (PDF)