I have a Master Bilt Freezer with an M-type condenser. It was installed poorly. I've had to rerun the condensate line because it is freezing before it can drain. It also has trouble fully defrosting and had ice build up. I've defrosted the entire unit and re-run the drain line. It was running great until I made an oops. I thought the drain line heater that wraps around the condensate line wasn't hooked up right because in my experience it didn't make a full circuit. It should be a loop to create any heat. Their is two heaters. Each has two insulated wires with a metal sheath around the outside of everything. These two wires each go to separate power wires. One red, one black. Now for it to work, I'd assume the end needs to be looped together to make a full circuit. Previously they were just cut off and deadended with electrical tape. I called two people that know about this stuff and they agreed. So I twisted them together and then turned the unit back on. The breaker popped and now it won't start. I need two things answered. (1) How should that drain heater be wired? It looks like it was cut. Should it be one giant loop and not two separate dead end leads? (2) What order should I test things to get it going. I assume the fuses would be the first test. If not that, where next? I can't afford to have a repair guy out and I'd like to learn how to replace some of these parts that fail easily. Where could I find a repair manual?
It sounds like your drain heater is the type that should be deadended. Power makes the circuit between the material it is made of. It is to just be warm, not hot. I've not seen this in some time but that's how they used to work.
Generally speaking, walk-in freezers have bunches of controls. http://www.master-bilt.com/pdfs/io_manuals/condensing_unit_io.pdf
go to this web site as it will cover the M series unit. Do this first and if you are still having a problem, get back to me.
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If you can access the condenser fan, jam it with a screwdriver handle so it can't revolve. switch on and see if the noise still appears. If not, change the fan motor. If so, change the compressor.. Don't let the compressor run without the fan operating more than to test for the noise.
The heat at the opening of refrigerator is usually a sign the condenser coils are dirty. Check the condenser coils for a restriction underneath the unit. Dirty condenser coils will cause poor air flow over the coils and compressor. Poor air flow will cause a lot of problems, including overheating the compressor, the refrigerant and the copper lines. This will destroy your sealed system. The coils need cleaning at least once a year, more often if you have pets. I couldn’t determine if your unit has an “energy saver” setting. If so, turn it on. Not all refrigerators have energy saver. This is on units with emilion heaters in the wall around the door gaskets. The heaters are to eliminate condensation around the door. Turning ON energy saver turns OFF those heaters. You should notice a change quickly if it’s the heater causing the heat, that is, if you have that model. Cleaning the coils will need a day or two to allow things to cool down before you notice a change in the heat around the door.
Check condenser clean and fan working. Check it's not frozen solid because you've been running it full pelt; if it is, fully defrost it then set it at a mid range setting.
The condenser is the 'radiator' located under the unit near the compressor. If it's clogged it will cause this. Make sure, also, that the fan at the condenser is operating.
If you've not yet cleaned the condenser, do so with a vacuum both sucking, and then blowing, to clean it well. BE READY FOR A DUSTY MESS!!
no don't do that sounds like the drain tube going to the defrost pan is not in properly remove front grate and inspect to see if tube is off to one side if you completely seal the void that is required on operating frig's if has no air flow to cool the compressor will overheat and shorten the life or not cool properly
No choice but to move your food to a secondary unit & defrost the walk-in. If you go chipping around your condenser you risk more damage. Hopefully you have seperate breakers for you walk-in vs other cold storage areas.
The only thing I could suggest is looking at the evaporator (inside coil / cold bit) and making sure it is not frozen over reducing the airflow through the coil. If it is then put it onto a couple of defrost cycles to clear the ice build up. Not sure exactly of this type but would assume you also have a sight glass on the external unit, you can check this to see if when running the sight glass is clear (fully charged). Another check is looking at the compressor and the larger of the two lines (suction) should be cold back to the compressor (this line is normally insulated). However I would suggest your best course of action is a good refrig. techy. Hope this helps.
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