Motor surges rpm while blasting with pressure washer. There is a short arm that moves up and down. I can hold it in place and the motor will stop surging.

The part that is attached to the wiper motor is in the wrong location. Remove the nut or bolt that attached the wiper transmission to the motor and remove the short arm from the wiper motor. Turn the wiper motor on and then off. wait until it stops moving. Set the wiper arms to the correct "home" position. Reattach the wiper transmission arm to the wiper motor.

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Motor seized up! You can try turning it manually. If it moves freely then yes motor has burnt out! If it has resistance, try turning it until it moves freely then try to run the washer! Best of luck

It's surging... your carburetor needs to be serviced. It's not giving the proper air fuel ratio to the engine...

BriMaxSmallEngineRepair
Gibbstown,NJ

I suggest check for vacuum leak and test fuel pressure.

the pressure regulator valve is stuck take it apart and clean it

There is an arm that runs from the governor arm to the carb. There should be a long spring on this to even out the revs. If that has come off it can cause similar problems. If you have checked/reset the governor arm on the pinion that comes out of the crank housing and the spring is in place I would think the only other problem is the actuator that operates the governor arm pinion internally. It is a strip down job to check it, but there is a (plastic?) cog that runs of a gear on the side of the crank shaft. This has a weighted pusher that moves with engine speed to move the governor arm. I have seen a couple of engines where there is wear and the weights have popped over the 'top hat' pusher stopping it moving freely and causing full revs. If you're not confident in stripping the crank casing down (you can leave the piston and crank in place to check the governor mechanism) then you should definately take it to a dealer or experienced technician.http://www.honda-engines-eu.com/engines/PartSelection.jsp?model=GX390K1&type=BJ&npl=10ZF601%20&lang=EN
Position 9 is the governor assembly.

1. Open Hood.
2. Remove wiper arms by removing cap nuts. they are a tight fit . there is a puller for this.
3 Remove cowel cover . once cover is off you will see the wiper motor and transmission assy. Possibly a snap joint wore out oa nut holding motor drive arm in place loosened up.

Almost certainly, your problem is being caused by the engine governor being set wrong. The governor is responsible for adjusting the engine as it comes under a load. With the breather off the carb, watch for the linkage that moves all by itself when you pull the trigger. It will have a spring as part of it, and an "arm" that is part of the linkage. This arm has 4-7 holes in it. Moving the spring to a different hole may fix the problem. There is also usually an adjustment screw that you can toy with and see if that tweaks it. But I'd definitely try moving the spring -- 1 position at a time -- and see if it a). helps or b). hinders......... Depending on the answer, you get a clue as to which direction to go with your next adjustment attempt. One of two directions will put the correct tension of the spring/arm and cause the governor to govern correctly.

Try a simple test. It is ok to run the pump without water for a short time. Check idle speed without water in system to see if enginet surges. If it does not surge, then most likely the unloader/ pressure valve is causing the engine to surge when in the unloaded state. Life of unloader /pressure valve is shortened by letting system bypass for long periods of time. Enjoy

I've never been a big fan of the 180 OH family of engines in these things, but here goes.
1 - If the engine will stay running while it surges, close the choke a little at a time and see if it settles down. If it does, there is something amiss in the carb. The carbs on these engines are very picky about tiny bits of dirt. The good news is that they are fairly simple to take apart and clean, the bad news is that lots of the parts are plastic and break easily. At least they aren't too expensive.

2 - I've seen 2 ways to adjust the governed speed on these engines; a spring that connects to the governor arm at one end and a tab bent up from the sheet metal that mounts on top of the engine at the other - bend the tab so the spring is tighter to speed the engine up, and (b) a jam nut and screw mechanism that presses against a lever that pulls on a spring that connects to the governor arm - screw the screw in tighter to raise the engine speed.
Note that in either case the mechanism adjusts the tension in a spring that pulls against the governor arm, this is helpful in finding out where to make the adjustment.
Here in the US we want our 2 pole generators like this to run at 3750 rpm at no load so that we get very close to 3600 rpm at load. If you're using a DMM to measure the output of the generator in Hz, you want 61.5 at no load.

If nothing you can do with the choke makes the surge go away, you might have a misadjusted governor. The Tecumseh service manual has a great procedure for making this adjustment, essentially what you do is loosen the retaining nut on the governor arm, twist the governor shaft to its minimum speed position, then hold the throttle assembly at the idle stop and tighten the governor arm jam nut. Always keep a finger near the kill switch when running the engine the first time after this procedure, it's easy to mess up and have a runaway engine.

Please rank me if this was helpful,
Carl