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Is the dryer gas or electric? Does it plug into a 110Volt outlet or a 220Volt outlet? Does it trip the circuit breaker immediately or will it run for a while and then trip the breaker? If it is tripping immediately then there is a short inside the unit. If it takes a while to trip the breaker it can be that the outlet you are using is not a dedicated line and has other circuits connected to it. If that's the case you are overloading the breaker and causing it to shut down. If it is a dedicated line that you are plugged into then something inside the unit is heating up when its in use and overloading the circuit breaker. Then the unit needs service.
You can replace the wall outlet with a GFI type and cut the ac cord end off and install a basic 3 prong for 120 volt system. AC unit controls don't like ground faults and should be corrected. The cord gfi may be going out.
These units are totally repairable and will run for ever. Need to assume that other damage has occurred as a result of the failed shorted terminal connections.
Possible that the circuit breaker is defective caused by the dryer failure.
Assume that one of the components has shorted to the grounded frame of the dryer.
The 11 ohms of the heater is about right.
Confirm that heater element is not shorted to the dryer frame (heater housing)! This condition would have caused the initial wire terminals to fail and now trip the circuit breaker!
Use an ohm meter and check resistance between hot leads on back of dryer. Check resistance between each hot and neutral.
There is a switch located on the motor that connects power to the heater. When the motor is running the centrifugal switch closes. This saftey circuit confirms that the blower is running before heat is turned on. Check that the switch is not damaged from prior terminal short circuit failure, Repair kit is p/n WPL-501218
Timer is the next check. Same thing confirm that no damage to the switch circuits has occured. Last check thermal fuses and thermostars for short to netural.
Hi,
If you reset the GFCI button and then when you go to turn it on the button pops again, then you have a short inside the units probably in the fan motor or the compressor..
What else do you have running on hydro while AC is running? Such as coffee maker, microwave, water heater, fridge. That 30 amp breaker is your main breaker I assume, or breaker on pole your plugged in to. Keep in mind your AC will normally draw approx. 15-17+ amps momentarily when compressor kicks in to cool, then drop back to 12-15 amps when running normal. If your AC is drawing too much current, then you would only normally trip 20 amp breaker for AC in your panel. Try switching other appliances to gas operation while running AC, such as water heater, and fridge. Make sure incoming voltage is up to specs as well . (115-120 volts) If water heater takes 5-8 amps, and fridge takes same when they are calling for power, you'll be close or over the 20amp mark when you consider your on board converter etc. as well. That only leaves approx 10 amps for AC that requires approx 15 amps to run, and up to 20amps when compressor kicks in. If you switch all those other items over to propane, and it still happens, then a current draw test should be done on AC unit to see if perhaps a capacitor is faulty, or possible compressor faulty.
The adjustment knob on the unit does not turn down how do you get the knobs off? Can we replace the control unit with one that is touch control? Could the problem of it not turning down be the thermostat? It is an Amana PTC153A35AD wall unit.
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