We just installed Cooper wiring device decorator lighted 3-way switches in our hallway. The light is working but the decorator light inside those switches is pusling in the off position. The single switches don't do that. Is that normal?

Open following link for wiring diagram with written instructions.
Some of your wiring does not sound up to code.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Cooper-277-pilot-light-switch.htm

1) Two differences between regular switch and cooper 277
-Different color screws: Regular switch has two brass screws, and either wire can connect to either screw. Cooper 277 has dark, brass, silver screws, and hot wire connects to dark screw, and wire to light connects to brass screw.
-Cooper needs neutral wire connected to silver screw, to power the indicator light.

2) Some of the wiring in your box does not sound up to code.
Bare ground wire should not be connected to black and white wires.
Electrician should check this out.
Probably the ground wire is being used as a Neutral. Bare ground wires and white neutral wires both connect to neutral busbar at main breaker box.

Yes, just reverse the wires.
Take a photo of wiring before starting so it can be put back if things go wrong.

Question is a bit unclear and wires are not known.
Are both GFCI devices inside same box?
Not necessary to install 2 GFCI devices inside same box since second outlet/switch can be protected using one GFCI.

1) Typical GFCI outlet device has 4 terminal screws (plus green ground screw for bare copper ground wire)
2) Two of the screws are labeled LINE. These screws are where the black Hot wire and white Neutral wire are connected. Black goes to brass screw and white to silver screw. And now the device has power to outlets, and both outlet are GFCI protected.
3) Two of the screws are labeled LOAD. These screws are where you attach additional outlets/switches that you want protected by GFCI. All outlets connected to LOAD screws would be GFCI protected. So attach black and white wires and run them to an ordinary outlet/switch and it will be GFCI protected. The key is to connect wires to the LOAD screws.
4) If you are using the outlet/switch combo GFCI device, then the same wiring shown above applies. The difference is the wires sticking out of back of device are for the switch. For example if switch controls a light, the wires going to the light connect to the two wires on back of device.

you are missing something
you describe 3 led lights --2 green and one unlit then you go on about a red led light
suggest that you get in an accredited electrician to check the circuit
it is possible that you are testing with the wring tester

The big slot is the white wire ground is the green screw small slot is the black wire the 2 screws next to each other is the hot

replace with orignial stile switch

I don't know the copper-brand 1301 switch
Internet photos of the 1301 show that it has two screw terminals, and a green ground screw
Switch with 2 screws is a single-pole switch. (plug green ground screw)

Sounds like you are replacing 3-way switch with 3 screws. (plus green ground screw)
3-way switches control hallway lights, with switch at each end of hallway.

I think you need to buy a 3-way switch.

How to wire 3-way switch:
Bare ground always goes to green screw
The key is the dark-colored screw.
Old switch has dark-colored screw >> mark this wire.
Attach this wire to dark-colored screw on new switch.
Other two wires go to either screw.

People frequently write fixya report that lighted device doesn't light up.
And they report device is wired correctly.
Or they report one device lights up and the other doesn't.
If two devices don't work, I suggest they swap devices to see if same problem happens in other location. No fixya customer has added comment to reveal result of swapping device.

After searching Leviton, Lutron and Cooper websites, there is no conclusive answer.
Manuals show lighted devices, and show ordinary one-for-one replacement wiring ... there is no secret technique for getting device to light, just attach wires like ordinary switch.

Check that ground wire is connected.
Install device in another switch location and see if it works there, which would indicate possible electrical ground fault at first location.
The wrong device was put inside the sales box.
The device is defective.

typically the wiring in halways are a 'three-way' method. this means that one switch is provided the power and will switch this power between to wires 'travelers' to the other swtich. the other switch will be a three way switch as well, but instead of receiving power on one leg and switching it between the other two, it takes the other to and you select which one you get power from and the power continues to the light. Almost all of the motion sensing light switches are not 3 way. so you will need to either only put the sensor on one end and wire all the legs together on the other end (this would act as a regular light switch) or find somewhere that has the 3 way motion switch

Hi ,., the two screws on the one side of the combo are for the white , neutral wires, they should be interconnected with a small link. The screw at the bottom of the switch connect the black power wire, then jumper a wire between the other two screws on that side and the switch will be controlling the receptacle.