SOURCE: Maytag washer
3E has something to do with the motor control. Apparently the design of
this machine allows a water leak either from the water intake box or
down a rubber hose which runs along with the motor wire harness. The
water tracks to the harness and motor and shorts the whole mess out.
a.k.a. fried motor.
pull the back plate off (3 screws) and look at
the motor where the wire harness plugs into it. Notice a bunch of green
stuff- that is corrosion from the electrical short circuit causing your
problem. See the rust build up on the side rail below the motor (as
there will be none on the side adjacent) this is indicative of a water
leak.
Our machine started doing this within the first week and we
had the "service" people come out and "fix" it, but it appeared they
did nothing. When I opened the machine up I discovered the problem when
I ohmed out the rotor contacts in the motor wire harness and found it
to be open instead of the factory specs of appx 2.5 ohms.
Maytag
(now Whirlpool) does not want to send me a new motor and harness
because of their bad design. The machine is a sealed unit only 23
months old. Note to all...do not buy Maytag or Whirlpool. That Maytag
repair man is sitting on his bum because the company does not care
about their consumers and their cheaply made products (sold at high
markups).
If you want pictures write me at [email protected]
also in my model I found the troubleshooting guide in the bottom front kick plate. It is a plastic piece you will have to insert a screwdriver into and "pop" off. This will show you how to enter the "secret" trouble shooting codes into the front control panel. And a definition of exactly what 3E means.
SOURCE: what is code 3E on
CODE 3E IS SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE MOTOR. MINE JUST WENT OUT AND TURNS OUT THE RELAY IS BAD TOO. HAVING TO GET A NEW WASHER. TOO EXPENSIVE TO FIX.
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