It is LIKELY that one or more pins and or wires in the remote cable are broken.
These MINI DIN connectors are "tender" and are easily broken and wires flex at the back of the connector and are broken.
FIRST check that all pins are present at BOTH ENDS of the cable.
NEXT use an ohmmeter to check continuity of each and every pin end-to-end. I suspect you will find one or more broken.
Be aware that repairing this cable requires patience and steady hand as the pins are so close together it is easy to have solder bridges, etc. Sometimes just opening the connectors are a problem to access the pins. Sometimes the cables are MOLDED and those are UNREPAIRABLE other than cutting off the bad conector and replacing it. You can usually buy replacement connectors at DIGIKEY.com and or Mouser.com. You have to CAREFULLY select the apporpriate pin configuration from the catalog page. One needs a small soldering iron and magnifying glass to work on the cable.
USUALLY the wires go from pin to pin. Also a shield on the cable has to be dressed and connected usually. You may find the shell of the connector tied to a pin or just the sheild of the cable.
Yes, the same source I mentioned would have the mating connectors...
BUT before you do that swap both your parts with your friend to positively identify which part is bad (it could be either)
ALSO don't be too quick to exhonerate the cable as the mere act of plugging in and out CAN make it work, usually temporarily.
NEXT, using a bright LED light, look at the pins in the female part.(both units)
They can be spread apart or bent... If spread, use a sewing needle to CAREFULLY tighten up the mesh.
You are on the right track!
When testing the cable bend and tug a bit on the cable to discover any intermittent connections.
You said you had a friend that you tested the cable on... If he has the same rig, take yours there and isolate which part is bad... It could be either end of the cable and associated hardware.
the connector pins are likely either soldered to a board or have short jumper wires to the circuit board.
The cable carries the power to the unit and will probably have a serial data link to and from the unit.
Troubleshooting further will be difficult without schematics and test equipment. I really would encourage you to verify which part is defective, as oppening these CAN create more problems.
Here is one last shot at looking for a broken wire at one of the female connectors without opening the unit:
Using an Ohmmeter with a really high resistance range, say 2 Megohms, measure resistance between each pin and a known ground onthe case... The exact resistance is not important, only that we are looking for a no-connect infinite resistance pin that is connected at one end of where that cable goes that we find IS connected at the other... Use a sewing needle to probe.
Check the sane resistance on the OTHER unit and see if you find a pin that does have resistance that the other end does not.
This is iffy way of doing this s a pin MAY have an optical coupler and be near infinite resistance...
I WOULD EXPECT MORE THAN three pins to be used but three would be the absolute minimum, power ground, and a serial data line.
Look at the traces going to that connector... IF you see more than three THAT ARE NOT tied to the ground, then we may have a broken connector... it happens... These MINI DIN types are fragile... they are similar to the keyboard connectors on some PC's.
I have probably 50 yeaars of troubleshooting experience myself. I buy a lot of broken gear from eBay and others and repair it.
That sounds like you MAY not have had a good ground while testing... a little inconclusive at this point. OR the bad unit might have a short between the electronics and the case.ground which MAY be a problem or not, depending on which signals are shorted to the case.
The next test is more extensive and that is making a matrix showing the resistaance between each pin and every other pin.
You start with a needle in one pin and then mao every other pin, then move the first needle up a pin and do all the remaining ones again. Do this until all pins are exhausted.
NOW also do this on a good unit and compare.
IMPORTANT: Use the same polarity of the meter for testing both units, and preferably, reverse the leads and do each unit again with reverse polarity.
Had two replies while I was at church... location is Renton WA here... near Seattle WA,
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ZOOM 9030.
I/YOU CAN BUY A MINI DIN CONNECTOR IF YOU LOOK ON WEB AND YOU NEED A 8 PIN MINI DIN,MALE TO MALE.
IF YOUR 8050 IS NOT COMMUNICATING WITH 9030 MAKE SURE IN 9030 UTILITIES ITS SET CORRECTLY,MANUAL TELLS YOU HOW.I HAD PROBLEM BUT READ MANUAL IT TELLS YOU HOW.
BOB
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Actually that is helpful and it is what I was thinking but then I went to see a friend that has the same unit and tried the cable. We found the cable to be okay it worked. So now I'm thinking it might be the actual female connector on the 9030 that has bad contacts. Does anyone know if I can find this type of connector anywhere for me to replace??
Please help, tks
Well..after testing the cable I really think it must be the female connector on the 9030 zoom. When connected it does power up the pedal board as it should, however still won't communicate to control the patch changes as it is suppost to do.?
What next? not sure if the female connector is available anywhere I know Samson/ Zoom does not support the 9030 and the pedal 8050.I tried playing in each pin contact with a sewing needle on the unit and the contacts seem to all be there as my needle actally gets tighted up in each hole as if it was the pin from the cable.So I'm thinking maybe on the other side where the connector sits on the circuit board ...not sure but it may be soldered kind of hard to tell? Can anybody help??
Thanks you are guilding me in the right direction....Out of 8 contacts on the unit/female conector only 3 have resistance. the other 5 do not. I used a sewing needle to help me make contact as the multimeter probe did not fit in there, I used the bolt on the 1'4" audio plug as my ground.
One of these 3 must be carrying the power to the 8050 and the other 5 must be dead. Does this mean the connector is the problem or can it be on the circuit side. There is one screw holding this connector to the case, I removed the screw but the connector won't come loose from the board...I don't want to force it? It seems like it's sitting right on the board..no wires?
Where are you???
Where can I buy this Connector?
I will go test the other unit to see if I get the same thing today?
Okay, here is some news...I'm not sure if it's good or bad but maybe you will tell me?? I tested the working unit ...and all the female contacts on the unit's connector have "no" resistance note this is the good unit...So does this mean that the bad unit is shorted because 3 contacts have resistance??? Please help you seem to be very experienced. thanks
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