Power switch is sitting crooked, half inside the computer. How do I take the back off to push it back out?

It could be a hardware problem. Half a screen not working doesn't sound good to me. I have a PaperWhite Kindle. I had another Kindle I dropped and it came up like yours, with half a screen showing the picture and the other half the screen showing white. It's now a paper weight.

You can try a total reboot by holding down the power button for about twenty seconds. Mine hangs up every couple months and the touch screen stops responding and the reboot by holding down the power button for about twenty seconds fixes it every time. It takes a few minutes. You have to sit there and watch the slow progress bar fill in as it goes through the re-boot process.

If this doesn't work, you might try removing the back cover, disconnecting the battery. Letting it set for minute or so and then reconnect the battery, re-install the back cover and try a normal short-power button push first and if nothing happens, follow it with the long power button push.

You have a faulty main board, my advice to you is buy an good old machine with crook seals, pull it to pieces and you have a bag of spare parts. Replace the old electronic control module with the one you pulled to bits. Not much goes wrong other pumps and solenoids.

Hi

First make sure that nothing is blocking the drain pump assembly located inside the bottom of the unit, after this test the door lock-switch assembly. If the door lock-switch is also fine then the control board should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

I guarantee I won't lose my patience and I will be gentle. I'm a bedbound invalid and have some feeling for people with medical problems.

As long as you are sure the paper is completely removed. Simply switch the printer off and pull out the power plug and connection to the computer. Go put the kettle on and make youself a nice cup of tea or coffee or whatever your beverage of choice is. Sit down and enjoy your cuppa and when it's finished. Return to the battlesite and plug everything back the way it was. Now switch your printer back on and see what happens. If all is normal then maybe a reboot of your computer would be a good idea and when it's back on line see how the printer is going. Try to print something and if it's all OK then job done.

However, if all hell breaks out again You could try swiching off the printer leave it about 10 seconds and turn it back on by holding the power switch on and also holding the on line button down at the same time.
Keep these buttons depressed untill you hear a beep or even a double beep. If there is paper in the printer it should enter a test print phase. See if that works. If nothing happened change the combination of the power switch and the line feed button being held down. It should put you into a printer check. Again with paper in the printer a page of text should print out.
In the event your power switch isn't a push for on and a simple rocker type switch then switch on whilst holding one of those button I mentioned down.

Hopefully you now have a printer behaving itself. If you are out of luck may I suggest someone takes your printer to an authorized repair shop.

Is the aesthetics of the computer a factor?

May sound like an inane question, but there are those of us that can live with two wires hanging out to a switch.

http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html

This Actually IS the usual style, and shape of most Power On switches.

Once you take the Power On button mechanism, out of the Front Panel of your computer, you may see this type of switch, incorporated into it.

Advise use care, as Power On button mechanisms are made of plastic, and the power on switch is usually held in by tangs formed out of that plastic part.

The tangs have the tendency to snap off easily. Warm water usually helps when removing the old switch, by heating the plastic up. Dry accordingly, install the new switch.

Or, you may want to peruse a computer repair shop, and see if they have one available. Sometimes they tear down old computers, and save the switches.

This information stated, goes more towards the Mom and Pop type of computer repair shops, not the fancy, 'I want to sell you an expense computer, before you go out the door', shops.

The Power On button you push is just a plastic device, that pushes against one of these types of switches.

Pushes against that little 'N-ipple' that sticks out of the switch.

Just for edification, as not many techs bother to take a Power On switch apart;

Viewing the photo of the switch in the link I provided.

1) You'll see a square case. Metal square top for half of the case, plastic for the bottom half.

2) The n-ipple that sticks out, is a cylindrical shape that is molded to the middle of a flat square base.
It's made of plastic.

3) The metal top is square shaped, and has a hole in the middle. There are tangs that come down the sides of the metal top.
These tangs are bent over, and this is what holds the metal top, onto the plastic square bottom piece.

4) Inside under the movable part of the switch itself, (Number 2 above), is a square, flat, thin sheet of spring metal. (Very Thin)
It is convex shaped.

Pushing the n-ipple in of the switch, depresses the concave shape of the flat spring metal piece.
Makes it flat.

When it is flat, it contacts two terminal contacts at the bottom, of the plastic bottom piece.
The two terminal contacts, are attached to those two wires you see sticking out of the switch.

Letting go of the Power On button let's the flat spring metal piece pop back into it's convex shape.

All the things you never wanted to know, huh?

You don't have something aligned correctly but without a model I can't really tell you what to look for.

UNplug from mains wait 5 seconds plug back in all lights should come on then go off if this happens then hold down start/pause button and press power after that take your hands off count 5 seconds then push power off again.That should reset things BUT I think your problem is a crook out of balance micro switch located under the main board,Or a crook lid switch bypass them and if it works replace the crook one.And if you don,t have any luck let me know which lights are on from left to right to establish the correct fault code.Hope this helps Cheers.

Hello, It depends on how you cleaned the computer. If you removed the card from the slot then it may not be reseated back into proper alignment. If it is onboard video then there may still be a bit of dirt across one of the chip contacts. The other option would be when you plugged the monitor cable back in, you may have accidently bent a pin on the plug. Make sure that all power to the computer is off for several minutes before disconecting the cable and then look at the cable end to see if one of the pins got bent. Carefully straighten it with fine needle nose pliers then carefully plug it back in. If this doesn't work then you may have created static electricity and blew out the video system. Hope this helps, RAC

HOW TO OPEN MIELE 251 VACCUUM: 1-Unplug from wall and disconnect power cord 2-Remove black switch panel at back of top panel: A-Use Phillips screwdriver, remove two silver screws visible between back of hinged top door and front of black switch panel
B-Push back of the panel down while pushing it forward (towards front of machine). There are two plastic notches and clips which are tightly fit together that you need to separate.
Once it releases, push it a bit more towards the front of the machine and lift off panel. It has wires connecting it to the main body so it will not remove completely.
C-Be careful not to lose the springs that simply sit inside of two plastic channels, one under each of the two switches. These are required for your witches to operate properly.
3-Locate screw at bottom of deep rectangular hole now revealed (under former location of black switch panels). Unscrew using Phillips screwdriver. 4-Open hinged top panel. Locate two silver screws, one on each side of main housing. Unscrew using Phillips screwdriver. 5-This will let you lift off the whole top assembly, door and main housing, revealing the plastic chassis and the motor unit within.
You now have access to the motor, wiring connector harnesses, circuit board and the cord reel.

That is definitely a problem with the monitor...if its under warranty have it replaced...if not...start looking for a replacement it hardly ever is worth it to have them repaired (shipping, parts, labor is usually a little less than a new monitor). Sorry