Very little pressure/flow rate at all hot tap outlets

If your Bosch Highflow 21e hot water system is experiencing fluctuations in water temperature while showering, it could be caused by a few different factors. Here are some possible reasons for this issue:

1. Flow rate too high: The hot water system may not be able to keep up with the demand if the showerhead or tap is allowing too much water to flow through. This can cause the water temperature to drop suddenly. Try reducing the flow rate by turning down the tap or using a low-flow showerhead.
2. Water pressure fluctuations: If the water pressure in your home fluctuates, it can cause the hot water temperature to vary. This can be caused by various factors, such as other appliances using water at the same time, or changes in municipal water supply pressure. Installing a pressure regulator or a flow restrictor may help to stabilize water pressure.
3. Blocked or dirty water filter: A clogged or dirty water filter in the hot water system can restrict water flow, causing the water temperature to fluctuate. Check the filter and clean or replace it if necessary.
4. Malfunctioning thermostatic mixing valve: The thermostatic mixing valve (TMV) regulates the water temperature in the hot water system. If it's faulty or dirty, it can cause temperature fluctuations. A licensed plumber or technician can inspect the valve and replace it if necessary.
5. Faulty temperature sensor or control board: If the temperature sensor or control board in the hot water system is faulty, it may not be able to maintain a consistent water temperature. A technician can diagnose the issue and repair or replace the faulty component.

If you're unsure about how to diagnose or fix the issue with your hot water system, it's best to contact a licensed plumber or technician for assistance.

Did you do back flow? Suggest you perform back wash via the hot water outlet of your heater by plugging a hose. What is the tubing size that flows thru the heating elements? If it's small, maybe you need to apply higher back pressure to remove the soil. Does it have a built in pump? If it has, check the ******* strainer, maybe it's cloaked up with debris, you never know what's in the line.

It's the pressure from the hot water supply to your machine, if you fill from hot water tap, turn tap down a little to reduce the water flow. Should be OK then

Oh some of these there was a small black heatexchanger just for hot water they some times block up . or it could be a blockage in the water section where it flows in .I know Valliant have a very good tech line and fitters who do house calls .

Before calling service technician, open following link for Rheem troubleshooting resources.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Rheem-Tankless-water-heater.html

List of causes MIGHT include one of following:
Bad household circuit breaker that powers electronics, or loose wire inside outlet where tankless plugs in.
Tankless fuses and control board.
Water flow rate too low. Minimum .8 gallon required (depending on model)
Tankless inlet filter clogged.
Household aerators clogged at faucets.
Crossover at single-handled faucet
If installed, there can be crossover at mixing valve.
Faulty household check valve, including check valve on re-circulation system if that system is installed.
Restriction in household water line, such as clog at elbow.
Unequal pressure in household hot and cold lines, caused by restriction in hot line. When single-handled faucet turns on, the cold water pressure is higher so hot does not flow and tankless will not turn on.
Loose wire connection inside tankless.
Unit temperature set too high.
Unit temperature set too low.
Water temperature is very hot coming out of tap, so more cold is added, but that reduces amount of hot water flow, so tankless turns off because flow rate is too low.
On some tankless, if water is preheated by solar or other indirect source, the burner will not activate.
High mineral content in water > delime tankless yearly
Misaligned temperature sensor
Low gas pressure. Wrong type of gas. Undersized gas line.
Too many faucets on at same time.
Faulty tankless water valve. Water valve stuck.
Fluctuating household water pressure, for example MUD and PUD district water pressure problems or water well pressure.
Faulty household pressure reducing/regulating valve if installed.
Faulty household pressure tank, if installed -or- pressure tank needs to be installed.

1. COLD MIX, HEATER DEACTIVATES
   If inlet water temperature is over 70°F due to geographic location, water maybe very hot out of the tap. This requires a lot of cold water to be added with it in order to attain a useable hot water temperature. The addition of too much cold water will overpower hot water demand from the tankless water heater. This slows the flow within the tankless water heater, decreasing it below activation point, which shuts off the heater. The end result is nothing but cold water coming out of the outlet. See: TWH E2-04 Overcoming fluctuating temperatures [PDF].
2. FLUCTUATING WATER PRESSURE
   If the water pressure in the home is erratic and the water flow is not consistent while a tap is opened, then the temperature of hot water will fluctuate. The minimum water pressure for the home should be 30psi or greater. For people on well systems the minimum pressure range is 30-50psi. The use of a pressure reducing/regulating valve is an effective way to maintain constant water pressure to the water heater. Watts brand 25AUB- ¾" or N35B-¾" pressure reducing/regulating valves or equivalent is suggested.
3. CHANGING FLOW RATE
   Major changes in flow rate can adversely affect the output water temperature of the heater. Increases from one major fixture running to multiple fixtures running at one time can cause the temperature to fluctuate. Stay within the heater's specifications. See: TWH E2-03 Outlet temperature vs. flow rate [PDF].

From the Bosch website.

Good Luck,
Gary

usually on the hot water piping, It starts to rust closed faster than the cold side, due to electrolosis. What you r discribing are the first signs of this happening. only solution is to replace the effected pipes..

In a word no. Combi boilers work on balanced pressure.ie the mains cold supply to the boiler should be around 1 bar minimum which would give a hot water pressure of the same 1 bar. Assuming the cold water pressure is fine, it sounds like you have a restricted flow on the hot side. If you live in an area with water problems the hot water systems pipework calcify over time effectively reducing water flow. Unless any flexi hoses are kinked, check if there are any filters in the appliances that may be blocked.Also check all valves are fully open and if possible check if there are any restrictions at the valves. Failing all that and the taps are in good order it is possible to fit a pump before the boiler but this may only be a temporary fix overall.

First check pressure over 1 bar ok then-
1. check flow - is it adequate - a little less than the cold tap ok then -
2. does the boiler initially fire up on low hot flow but alternate as u say
If answers are 1. no but 2. yes then check for a furred up secondary heat exchanger
if 1. yes but 2. no [that is the water not the heating] goes hot / cold and if the boiler goes out when the water goes to cold then it's the diverter valve, either to replace or if it is one which has a internal diaphragm-replace that

I have a triton opal shower.

I turn shower on low pressure and cold water. then no low pressure and piping hot water for a very short time then low pressure and cold water.

I've changed the solenoid and the little black plastic ball.

Help !