Turn a 3 door Randell freezer into a cooler

Well, no, actually. P2 is an error related to the evaporator temperature probe. I would start with the electrical connections, the bond between the probe and the evaporator, and the evaporator fan.

Numbered 1-9 - one is the warmest setting, nine is the coldest. For a cooler it should be good on 5 for a freezer 7. If it doesnt work well on those settings the thermostat is usually bad.

is it running?

Either the freezer needs to be defrosted or it went into defrost and didnt come out. So most likely your defrost system has failed. A good way to check this will be to unplug freezer for about a day or 2, and let it defrost manually. Should begin working properlt again when plugged back in . The problem will return suggesting your defrosy system has failed.
What is the make and mod of the freezer so i can tell you how to access it.

That should be The defrost termination. What controls the defrost is a defrost clock. It shows the time of day and the center will turn to start or terminate the defrost. Clock should be in a rectangular box.

Hi, installing a defrost timer is not difficult if you know what the wires represent. Since you don't have a manual and you are removing the timer that was put on in place of the original one, I would call the manufacturer of the freezer for help on this. If you mis-wire it, you can burn the motor for the timer out. The freezer it self should have a schematic diagram pasted on it showing the wiring for the defrost timer? Check on it and see. Keep me posted and I will continue to look for one.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

If the thermostat will let you set that high of a temp, you probably could use it. Let me give you a few things to think about. At higher temps, the refrigerant pressures could cause the compressor to work harder which would shorten the life. The unit will also have shorter run cycles which could over work the compressor. Shorter run times will affect the humidity of the conditioned space. Bad thing if you have fruits and veggies in there. You will have to eliminate the defrost cycles. No need to have "Forced" defrost at cooler temps. I am not a big fan of using equipment for things other than what it was designed for. So, you can try it and keep an eye on how it performs. Good luck and hope this is of some help.

It can be done but someone would have to do their homework. They have to know the BTU rating of the evap. Then match the compressor and expansion device to it for the intended temp range. In some cases, the compressor can be used in multiple temp ranges, so you could be lucky and just change the expansion device and possible the temp control, depending on which one you have. Let me know if I can be of any further help.

to do it right, you gotta get technical. Need to know the BTU rating of the evap coil. Then match the compressor/ condenser coil and the expansion device to the same BTU rating. Can prove to be somewhat expensive. Your unit probably has a 3/4 h.p. compressor. This is pretty big for a 2 door unit. Probably too big, but again, gotta get the technical on all that stuff.

There are generally 2 reasons why this would happen. The defrost timer or heater has gone bad. Or, the fan is not working. Because you state that it runs all day long, I would think that the coils are now a block of ice and cannot cool. In any case, manually defrost it now. Turn off the power and use a hair drier on low (not hot) setting. This should fix the electrical cost for now. Then you can determine if the fan is running properly, or the defroster.