Would this work or burn out fans? Amps on one fan is 1.5 and the other is 5 amps I want to run a 12/2 wire from the panel and to the duplex switch and tie it into a 12/3 wire that goes to switch to fans. The black hot wire on the 12/2 would go to the black common feed screw with fin attached and ground to green screw. The white wire would be tied into the white wire on the 12/3. The wires on the 12/3,ground to ground wires at switch, red to top gold screw for fan 1 and black to bottom screw for fan two. The white wire would continue on to a junction box The red ,black and ground of the same 12/3 wire would also go to the junction box. From the junction box, the red wire would tie into black wire from fan 1. The black wire would tie into the black wire on fan 2. Both white wires from fans 1 and 2 would tie into white wire at junction box. The ground wires from fans 1 and 2 would also tie into the ground wire at JB

remove cooling fan relay and with ampmeter look how much amps the cooling fan motor.
the fan is on with the ground ckt 335 dark green wire check if it's ground all the time

This is usually due to 1 of 3 possible problems.

1. Bad blower motor resistor - attaches to blower motor and regulates fan speeds. Not uncommon to lose 1 speed at a time until you get stuck with only 1 speed
2. Bad blower motor
   
3. Bad heater control module - less likely but still possible the module is bad and the whole unit requires replacing
   

Even if you use 12/2 rated wire and your house is wired in 12/2 if you pull to many What is the amp rating of your breaker that feeds this fan? If your breaker is rated at say 15 amps and your pulling 20amps from that fan you will continue to throw the breaker.

Regards, Tony

Fan switch ? Blower fan or engine cooling fan ??...I presume you mean the blower fan speed control switch.

On top of the battery under the hood, is a set of Green 30Amp fuses. These burn out the holder and a/c no longer works.

If so, by pass fuse with a replacement/repair '' in line fuse'' of 30 Amps from you local parts store.

Other reason fan not working is failed fan resistor under glove box near fan housing....although this is usually low speeds not working by HI does.

If you have the non electronic a/c system, the a/c rotary switch in the panel burns out often.

Jim,

You have a special fan there. Hunter Originals are my specialty.

There are two ways to accomplish a slower speed with this fan.

1. A wall variable speed control, solid state, rated for 3 or more amps, regular fan controls will not work as your fan draws 2.5amps on high, not even new ones that are labeled for the Original.

2. Retrofit the fan to make it a three speed. If you're good with wiring, it's really simple. What you need is, a standard 3 speed pull chain switch, not a double pole one like cheaper/new fans have that use capacitor speed control, we are using cap. speed control, but not the same way they do. So you want an "SP3T" switch. You also need an 9 10 or 11 or 12 MFD capacitor (depending on how fast you want your low to be 8 is 20rpm, 11 is 75 approximately). You will remove the switch cap to your fan, and you will find your switch has a black, blue and red wire connected to it. Remove all wires, attach the black to L on your new switch, attach blue to 1, then you need 2 extra pieces of wire. Stick one wire in 2 and the second wire in 3. Now, get your capacitor and hook one side of it to the red wire and position 2, then hook the other side to the wire you put in position three.

Remember to get the Single pole switch for non capacitor speed control fans, if you get the double pole, both winding sets in your fan will be activated, which will draw double current and burn your motor out.


Also, are you aware that your fan uses oil (like an engine) ? and is not permanently lubricated?

I would first check the wiring connections to fan and get a multi meter , set on 12 volts dc and see if fan motor has 12 vdc input voltage.
Too cheap to buy a voltage tester at wal mart ot harbor frieght, you can use a 12 volt bulb and socket, if you already have one. Remove fan wires & hook up 12 volt light bulb & if it lights, you got the juice. Carefull,dont let live wires touch because you short out $26.00 big buddy fan transformer. work with fan transformer unplugged from wall and dont plug in until you sure no wires touch.
use electrical or duct tape. electrical tape better.

otherwise,just buy the multi meter, they only $8.00 to $10.00
read & understand instructions, before you try to use it. otherwise,you could burn out your new meter.

well worth owning &
learning to use multi meter. I use it thousands of times.

if fan motor has juice but wont run, check fan shaft to see if it turns freely or scrapes or is stuck. oil fan motor bearings ,change the brushes.
make sure that the fan blades are not touching the fan housing and can turn freely.
if it still dont work, buy new fan motor.
if no juice at fan motor, check mr heater switch with the power off,unplug transformer from the wall or remove batteries.,
and use the ohm meter setting of the multi- meter to test for continuity of the switch when the switch is in the on position.
power must be off when using the ohm setting of a multimeter.
if power is on & using the ohm setting of the multi meter, you will blow out the multimeter. The ohm setting uses a 1.5 volt dc battery inside the multimeter to test for a compleated circuit.
so, 12volts dc would blow it out on ohms setting.
TESTING FOR OUTPUT OF FAN TRANSFORMER OR BATERY PACK.
If the switch is good,reinstall it on mr.heater and test the output of the transformer or battery compartment using the 20 volt dc scale of the multi meter. the voltage scale you select ,must be higher than the voltage you expect to find ,in order to avoid damage to the multi meter.
observe polarity,positive to red and negative to black.

the dc voltmeter setting is totally polarity sensitive and a reversed hook up could blow out the meter.
multi meter means it can read ac volts, dc volts,ohms and dc amps. Read and understand the included instructions before using a multi meter
a good single battery in new condition reads 1.62volts dc
1.5 vdc is almost dead, a good used battery reads 1.58 to 1.6 vdc
below 1.58 vdc is weak battery and 1.48 vdc is usually totally dead, but may be enough for momentary usage under 1 minute.

replace the blower motor, it is drawing to much current and burning up the switches

Tell me what you are wanting to accomplish. Are you wanting to run each fan off a separate switch in the same duplex box? The reason I ask is because you are using 12/3 wire to the fans. If you are just going to have 2 switches then you are only going to have power to each fan from each switch. Therefore there is no need to run 12/3 wire. 12/2 is all that is needed and you would simply tie the fan and light wires to that one power source at the light/fan. Now if you are wanting to have a switch for the light and another switch for the fan at each location then that will take 4 switches. You can buy double stack switches and have 4 switches in a double gang box. Is this new construction or old? Please explain what you are wanting and I will be more than happy to explain how to wire it.

Try removing the wires to the compressor and see what it draws when just the condenser fan is running. The motor for that fan should have an amp rating for it. If the fan is not running as fast as it should it will bog down the compressor.

needs a new motor